tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-77938116231919112282024-03-26T22:12:27.835-07:00The Dart ZoneHvZ and nerf news, tech, mods, reviews, tests, builds, opinions and observations from the firing line.torukmakto4http://www.blogger.com/profile/10734470012890561585noreply@blogger.comBlogger253125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7793811623191911228.post-34941940301149760822023-06-29T13:55:00.002-07:002023-06-29T14:02:03.296-07:00Continued dart evaluations, preliminary full length vs. short comparisons: Sureshot blue tip, DZP/AF Max, Accutip, waffle tip (Ekind 06-23)<p>This is going to be a long one, but it ultimately makes sense to put all this data in one post, and it will be seen why. As such, I will keep review commentary on the darts a bit terse.</p><p>More after the jump, but here's (for reference) the Sureshot green tip group from last time:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8q3INN3NlB5ofbxa8oFAyXJfB-yBImJ_FPuGZ8KPKs9N_8mBBYzFoPmMPZHhRQdBPZ7pqvXMI7bTj0Zi_0gR51GpE3dFDD3oJpzB8LbrMCfYBlBGggk7nO98qnzj7cWUleZA1PVBB-sg5h5UR63MD8VlykGP30qa_X6qxi3xR6HbUBlG_6tDH9ANeRKk/s1180/GreenTipSureshot_group_frame_anno.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="668" data-original-width="1180" height="362" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8q3INN3NlB5ofbxa8oFAyXJfB-yBImJ_FPuGZ8KPKs9N_8mBBYzFoPmMPZHhRQdBPZ7pqvXMI7bTj0Zi_0gR51GpE3dFDD3oJpzB8LbrMCfYBlBGggk7nO98qnzj7cWUleZA1PVBB-sg5h5UR63MD8VlykGP30qa_X6qxi3xR6HbUBlG_6tDH9ANeRKk/w640-h362/GreenTipSureshot_group_frame_anno.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><span><a name='more'></a></span><p><br /></p><p>Chrono data was recorded using a Caldwell outdoors. Lighting was appropriate and very few errors occurred. I deleted a total of 3 or 4 shots over the entire dataset that were suspicious.</p><p>Weather during the tests was typical for the area of about 90F and high humidity.</p><p>For all, test blasters were T19s. The usual suspect, my primary:</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6iex1G8Yu9Y7rDhF-EDbOjFxfn5D79ufoVg5ruFxgKkdcRW9alGxD6JhbqnAnH-4i9lK0eUSp0j0fqY8JoPYk8SkErs_3H1aNhjIO4xcJNXXY2IY4CiFIBtdvDfFGLm4QT_4uUCfVtop7pRKUoSGzZUSBegXa927OBzD4kdye0xzgFFB3bOpeu2o7zFM/s320/IMG_0312.JPG" width="240" /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And my personal short dart blaster, this blue/marble Gamma - with the sweetest, smoothest running cage I have ever built, incidentally.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX2yTq7Xqod0juPs3kloaWxUSIzWQHaKA18SU6dGURwEY0kPcJOtD7f5dGw36TVb1NBx1pCJyptQaFM6Y1gCdKySH5E4gEiRav9U-B2uPfG2mcfgJn-fCNcQ7E_bKCA6s8SJsEP5f06dIiW1Y6Utn1hY2uuVRfFBOkguDHhdwS_OJiItrOcOlwq8kxTtY/s4032/IMG_0334.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX2yTq7Xqod0juPs3kloaWxUSIzWQHaKA18SU6dGURwEY0kPcJOtD7f5dGw36TVb1NBx1pCJyptQaFM6Y1gCdKySH5E4gEiRav9U-B2uPfG2mcfgJn-fCNcQ7E_bKCA6s8SJsEP5f06dIiW1Y6Utn1hY2uuVRfFBOkguDHhdwS_OJiItrOcOlwq8kxTtY/s320/IMG_0334.JPG" width="240" /></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="color: #0000ee;"><u><br /></u></span></div><p></p><p>Plus, a couple different full length 9.5 blasters.</p><p><br /></p><h3 style="text-align: left;">A word on 9.0 vs. 9.5 Hy-Con</h3><p>I do not have a 9.0 shorty at the moment, so one wasn't in the mix. However, as to 9.0 and 9.5 - at all of the speed settings I am using (including their dialed-in "full" velocity which is where I usually run them in combat if there are no interfering velocity caps), with new and once-fired darts, the 9.0 and 9.5 perform nearly identically in velocity and dispersion. (The advantage of the 9.0 is actually more consistent performance with used ammo, than it is flat-out more pew factor with good ammo. "Full" is not fully supercritical as this would cause excessive velocity spread; this is typical of Hy-Con which is very intolerant of overspeed.)</p><p><br /></p><h3 style="text-align: left;">About group tests</h3><div>I used the same procedure and location from <a href="https://torukmakto4.blogspot.com/2023/06/testreview-prime-time-sureshot-green.html">the Sureshot green tip "chili" dart review</a> to plot groups using new and once-fired darts only. Wind was minimal.</div><div><br /></div><div>I conducted 3 shoots per dart type.</div><div><br /></div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>One ran the full length blaster at "full" velocity.</li><li>The next ran the short blaster at "full" velocity. (This is obviously not the same velocity as the full length blaster.)</li><li>The last ran the full length blaster, but now adjusted on the chrono with the SAME dart to closely the SAME VELOCITY AS the short blaster at ITS FULL velocity.</li></ul></div><div><br /></div><div>The last shoot is intended to offer a control for the obvious confounding variable in short vs. full length comparison shoots: the full length from a flywheel blaster collects more muzzle energy and usually has a higher velocity despite its higher mass than the short dart.</div><div><br /></div><div>This is significant because drag-stabilized projectiles as a rule become increasingly less stable with increasing velocity. The reduction in velocity, in itself, is very obviously a factor in dispersion.</div><div><br /></div><div>Constant velocity is only one possible idea of a fair comparison here, and makes the assumption that stability is primarily velocity-driven - although attempting to reach constant muzzle <i>energy</i> instead would not largely change the result (actually, by specifying an even lower velocity for the heavier full length, it would give it further advantage, if the velocity/stability correlation is significant in the first place for that dart).</div><p><br /></p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Accutip (aka Whirlwind, Accustrike/-fake, cloneostrike; black foam, TBNC NFStrike batch)</h3><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS0zVWElhInpWL7v96QbAs7D1GS57sG7oY2Zcv5ZAwbnQdeBOYrr8Ht7E65tC76tzndnPErJ7S4WrtLyTeSmd7YSCjLsm6FitiUfARyYnlcfk0XL-tz_n4siHo5FxUABcjCd35W1peYcyFbScGebUAJUgL-XMaIiQpzB-l3s9iXaqmSX-ceuMFGSR4eEc/s4032/IMG_0317.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS0zVWElhInpWL7v96QbAs7D1GS57sG7oY2Zcv5ZAwbnQdeBOYrr8Ht7E65tC76tzndnPErJ7S4WrtLyTeSmd7YSCjLsm6FitiUfARyYnlcfk0XL-tz_n4siHo5FxUABcjCd35W1peYcyFbScGebUAJUgL-XMaIiQpzB-l3s9iXaqmSX-ceuMFGSR4eEc/w640-h480/IMG_0317.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>The tried and true ultrastock classic. Like the waffles in this post, I tested these only in reglued state (see <a href="https://torukmakto4.blogspot.com/2023/06/coming-unglued.html">this post for why</a>).</p>Mass as a x72:<div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>1.24g</li><li>1.18g</li><li>1.23g</li><li>1.18g</li><li>1.22g</li></ul><div>And as a shorty:</div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>1.06g</li><li>1.06g</li><li>1.04g</li><li>1.05g</li><li>1.06g</li></ul><div>Dimensions:</div></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOkTFneOsSwdavjf7Wn28jb6deGSsTV0IWjL_YqSNBlVtLxP8ScbosjAep4w2RCidi_G3pk27BYN-J3VMCp9ABgO9_7CSt_GPNilc-cRuVpJzIpdwP3KJqksfOWFoaqmY9piYH280tDzo_Q1jh6Gf6KYup3lqL3m2vbcrMHH2i9z1HerZe-RhMzGyWspA/s4032/IMG_0327.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOkTFneOsSwdavjf7Wn28jb6deGSsTV0IWjL_YqSNBlVtLxP8ScbosjAep4w2RCidi_G3pk27BYN-J3VMCp9ABgO9_7CSt_GPNilc-cRuVpJzIpdwP3KJqksfOWFoaqmY9piYH280tDzo_Q1jh6Gf6KYup3lqL3m2vbcrMHH2i9z1HerZe-RhMzGyWspA/s320/IMG_0327.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEXs7f0hxtuXpa8DV2aWHxM5fiTkJqG2D_pJ2DoDXOVBD9LEa1bmY4Wwc4B__apzSw1IbwDFm4bddOeYoYrLXy8h-ge6BnAGYUIzWo2ysXeLbuGwqBj2yS4Jkx6cykAUWjeVnbXZ4acD98dBKEvwc8FX5FOPgkrOOwTmIjjeUzUidcwsv_4T2SDGzlgO8/s4032/IMG_0328.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEXs7f0hxtuXpa8DV2aWHxM5fiTkJqG2D_pJ2DoDXOVBD9LEa1bmY4Wwc4B__apzSw1IbwDFm4bddOeYoYrLXy8h-ge6BnAGYUIzWo2ysXeLbuGwqBj2yS4Jkx6cykAUWjeVnbXZ4acD98dBKEvwc8FX5FOPgkrOOwTmIjjeUzUidcwsv_4T2SDGzlgO8/s320/IMG_0328.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNQq1emoTC9WomWjfego4atUnEj_sCu6_5W1RLoIsTiKgFIdcJd7mIxTRRvz0FdFjb8NqGDQJLLFkrBETyee5SS_MurYh-Vbe89YeI-BLfW-FQdyOXDLGguRwsE2cuYrQf7hBxKsd0Wiff4jHvfKAGL5BwQl4o3Cv_abxUd_t2R6iBlVZCquUcw-c5kA0/s4032/IMG_0329.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNQq1emoTC9WomWjfego4atUnEj_sCu6_5W1RLoIsTiKgFIdcJd7mIxTRRvz0FdFjb8NqGDQJLLFkrBETyee5SS_MurYh-Vbe89YeI-BLfW-FQdyOXDLGguRwsE2cuYrQf7hBxKsd0Wiff4jHvfKAGL5BwQl4o3Cv_abxUd_t2R6iBlVZCquUcw-c5kA0/s320/IMG_0329.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div>Some chrono strings as a x72, firstly on 9.5:</div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>185</li><li>181</li><li>176</li><li>178</li><li>186</li><li>184</li><li>182</li><li>185</li><li>178</li><li>186</li><li>188</li><li>179</li><li>187</li><li>185</li><li>184</li><li>184</li><li>183</li><li>187</li><li>187</li></ul><div>And now the 9.0:</div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>183</li><li>185</li><li>186</li><li>184</li><li>185</li><li>176</li><li>191</li><li>178</li><li>186</li><li>186</li><li>184</li><li>188</li><li>179</li><li>184</li><li>186</li><li>186</li><li>190</li><li>182</li></ul></div><p>Two strings of shorties on the 9.5 blaster, one shot at the same time as above:</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>170</li><li>173</li><li>173</li><li>172</li><li>173</li><li>173</li><li>172</li><li>168</li><li>173</li><li>176</li><li>171</li><li>175</li><li>178</li><li>176</li><li>173</li><li>169</li></ul><div>And an earlier one:</div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>167</li><li>173</li><li>168</li><li>173</li><li>174</li><li>175</li><li>174</li><li>175</li><li>174</li><li>167</li><li>171</li><li>162</li><li>171</li><li>162</li><li>170</li><li>168</li><li>177</li><li>162</li><li>175</li><li>175</li><li>181</li><li>166</li><li>175</li></ul><div>Full length, full velocity:</div></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_ZHALTBwgExWkCVXNFIK5G3hDiOxJzC4G0M-rx-C6eXOXNuFXMl2bquB3bv4vjDwOyPc8RtCeC1hhb2cOudncR2UVsFP4vEyP4vvNioqaqNwhyZbB6yS6tkpYDjsMpP3yjN9YCcjjrP11siGEDH_EXmvuE4u5O02IOhPSQ_yNnjvYQQ-n0cH0izIFcKU/s1180/blaccustrike_group_frame.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="668" data-original-width="1180" height="362" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_ZHALTBwgExWkCVXNFIK5G3hDiOxJzC4G0M-rx-C6eXOXNuFXMl2bquB3bv4vjDwOyPc8RtCeC1hhb2cOudncR2UVsFP4vEyP4vvNioqaqNwhyZbB6yS6tkpYDjsMpP3yjN9YCcjjrP11siGEDH_EXmvuE4u5O02IOhPSQ_yNnjvYQQ-n0cH0izIFcKU/w640-h362/blaccustrike_group_frame.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>Likely that flyer was just an error in tip installation. There was one I knew didn't seat right when gluing these and then forgot to cull.</div><div><br /></div><div>This is an old favorite of mine and it performs very solidly.</div><div><br /></div><div>Now as a short dart:</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN9YM9tWYufej4kFcYZ65FxCOjdyz7lf8J4iYdv0nNWZdPf0cvEeC4FVeY00KYCjhZM3xxqP5-YvHeEP74ySVzCcAdL47QN27U3ULRpGZvrk8Jb9lWM7wAN340bZX6tFaqgPCSEWFLDH_UGLgYh0rI_Mfc8eFoE-CdYu0_IJpotsJfHi0w2_uCdtEwfsg/s1180/blaccustrike_SHORT_group_frame.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="668" data-original-width="1180" height="362" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN9YM9tWYufej4kFcYZ65FxCOjdyz7lf8J4iYdv0nNWZdPf0cvEeC4FVeY00KYCjhZM3xxqP5-YvHeEP74ySVzCcAdL47QN27U3ULRpGZvrk8Jb9lWM7wAN340bZX6tFaqgPCSEWFLDH_UGLgYh0rI_Mfc8eFoE-CdYu0_IJpotsJfHi0w2_uCdtEwfsg/w640-h362/blaccustrike_SHORT_group_frame.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>Man, that missing bit of foam not only slashed muzzle energy a large bit and moved the POI down about 10 whole inches, but increased dispersion a LOT.</p><div><br /></div><div>Full length at matched (~170-175fps) velocity to short:</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOyIlpoFYENkBAT7tGvnD5CZNbuEyEd_3vTy-0gpTHkHnDxU408mIu92yh5tptZ56w7HuwrZNNWJtxSkY9EnpIRXUBhTQlPB747XSfEEsiK0itJRxsNnOZ3YdMt9dWoAk-Dal1hWRxsa9fD4b0Xy7xm4nr4c5-kdayjlUEkqoVZ-lAZqryW6hwxFVoo3Y/s1180/blaccustrike_x72_MATCHING_VELOCITY_TO_SHORT.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="668" data-original-width="1180" height="362" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOyIlpoFYENkBAT7tGvnD5CZNbuEyEd_3vTy-0gpTHkHnDxU408mIu92yh5tptZ56w7HuwrZNNWJtxSkY9EnpIRXUBhTQlPB747XSfEEsiK0itJRxsNnOZ3YdMt9dWoAk-Dal1hWRxsa9fD4b0Xy7xm4nr4c5-kdayjlUEkqoVZ-lAZqryW6hwxFVoo3Y/w640-h362/blaccustrike_x72_MATCHING_VELOCITY_TO_SHORT.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div>Much better.</div><div><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;">Prime Time Sureshot blue tip/green foam</h3><div><br /></div><div>This dart is the more commonly known of the two Sureshots.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzDfSSb903E83Wq9jHttW9hocCfA69wMREkJ8E40m4jV1stKQ5D-4IOYpeIaatMUjTezAhoVxWebZUnZdI944Y1pQH2kTE1u0vwDH92__A2aA5PbPMxmkA8O3UXknlF3RYLo3NOw-rV9maFwhEdGAIAmk7wRXIYjoPTFG0GDD7zHHEhMRjbHgkQRU9p4I/s3402/IMG_0315.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2763" data-original-width="3402" height="520" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzDfSSb903E83Wq9jHttW9hocCfA69wMREkJ8E40m4jV1stKQ5D-4IOYpeIaatMUjTezAhoVxWebZUnZdI944Y1pQH2kTE1u0vwDH92__A2aA5PbPMxmkA8O3UXknlF3RYLo3NOw-rV9maFwhEdGAIAmk7wRXIYjoPTFG0GDD7zHHEhMRjbHgkQRU9p4I/w640-h520/IMG_0315.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>It isn't even a, let-alone the same as the, waffle tip dart although there are a number of people confusingly calling it that, not the least of which Prime Time themselves in their now-down Amazon listing.</div><div><br /></div><div>Dimensions:</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAxICs30oqTPERAQN761w8yCevFqegVtvmmSJW2MFx3zLFfYY04l_PLVFfrbl_WGLqPthpShAQCBcOYkGFWRQe78xhGY3DjzneJAzJWbPN44rKJa28eOTn7LdUp0O9L1QyWn8ItOvG0s3tIrKFh9px8S96wD08wcSPLl38OlgqFtRuVwn_dz_U8ss6dRc/s4032/IMG_0321.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAxICs30oqTPERAQN761w8yCevFqegVtvmmSJW2MFx3zLFfYY04l_PLVFfrbl_WGLqPthpShAQCBcOYkGFWRQe78xhGY3DjzneJAzJWbPN44rKJa28eOTn7LdUp0O9L1QyWn8ItOvG0s3tIrKFh9px8S96wD08wcSPLl38OlgqFtRuVwn_dz_U8ss6dRc/s320/IMG_0321.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiArN8mtCycMNGoMj0rYcdC17VXeF5nBf3_TEue5-GDgdkzdVmXyUbz97jqRRK8zFAn9bK3WxniGGMoTr_P-IvzVb408ExZovOZNFResn_9O0MfHADfXwag5sTUjv-HZKie4FNSvtrJuJU9KqnvYviqvOy6dJ4RqyuIUfe8Pz_h5S43g6RIqmyLqou8bjY/s4032/IMG_0322.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiArN8mtCycMNGoMj0rYcdC17VXeF5nBf3_TEue5-GDgdkzdVmXyUbz97jqRRK8zFAn9bK3WxniGGMoTr_P-IvzVb408ExZovOZNFResn_9O0MfHADfXwag5sTUjv-HZKie4FNSvtrJuJU9KqnvYviqvOy6dJ4RqyuIUfe8Pz_h5S43g6RIqmyLqou8bjY/s320/IMG_0322.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div>(OAL is the same as the green tip at just under 73mm)</div><div><br /></div><div>Mass as x72:</div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>1.04</li><li>1.03</li><li>1.05</li><li>1.05</li><li>1.05</li></ul><div>As shorty:</div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>0.88</li><li>0.90</li><li>0.87</li><li>0.87</li><li>0.87</li></ul><div>Chrono strings of the x72, one earlier on a 9.5 blaster:</div></div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>176</li><li>178</li><li>174</li><li>181</li><li>170</li><li>170</li><li>178</li><li>172</li><li>179</li><li>177</li><li>179</li><li>177</li><li>179</li><li>177</li><li>179</li><li>175</li><li>173</li><li>163</li><li>175</li><li>176</li><li>169</li><li>173</li><li>176</li><li>173</li><li>170</li></ul><div>And a day ago on the 9.0 right before the group shoot (N.b. temp swung a bit):</div></div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>170</li><li>178</li><li>181</li><li>167</li><li>184</li><li>183</li><li>184</li><li>180</li><li>180</li><li>186</li><li>184</li><li>183</li><li>183</li><li>185</li><li>185</li><li>183</li><li>182</li><li>184</li><li>184</li><li>181</li><li>183</li></ul><div>Shorty chrono earlier:</div></div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>167</li><li>175</li><li>170</li><li>175</li><li>170</li><li>173</li><li>171</li><li>171</li><li>171</li><li>171</li><li>174</li><li>166</li><li>167</li><li>169</li><li>161</li><li>161</li><li>170</li><li>173</li><li>164</li><li>172</li><li>172</li></ul></div><div><div><br /></div></div><div>And shorty day-of:</div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>165</li><li>169</li><li>162</li><li>167</li><li>173</li><li>174</li><li>168</li><li>167</li><li>168</li><li>170</li><li>165</li><li>174</li><li>167</li><li>164</li><li>166</li><li>174</li></ul><div><br /></div><div>Full length at full gusto:</div></div></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5yWf8EaJyX7PprPmpdMB_LKb1Mcqsb8OYmIusVKQFDvSFy1dsKqZ9XfdPyk8p2wTgjWqnA-DC6WeH7gc3eAHZUy4T-otQy4kdvf2WEWJwZlNPhCT6TvZisvTk50k-QI4B0ItDf1CLwd3cJZ0LYD9O8UnDA6CQFb6-1aLG0MPG6rgRaFmikWWyuFlz4zA/s1180/BlueTipSureshot_group.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="668" data-original-width="1180" height="362" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5yWf8EaJyX7PprPmpdMB_LKb1Mcqsb8OYmIusVKQFDvSFy1dsKqZ9XfdPyk8p2wTgjWqnA-DC6WeH7gc3eAHZUy4T-otQy4kdvf2WEWJwZlNPhCT6TvZisvTk50k-QI4B0ItDf1CLwd3cJZ0LYD9O8UnDA6CQFb6-1aLG0MPG6rgRaFmikWWyuFlz4zA/w640-h362/BlueTipSureshot_group.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Yeah; I'm not a huge fan.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This dart is inconsistent in both velocity and dispersion compared to the green tip "chili", is droppy as, gets less velocity from at least this flywheeler, and this was observed after one shot into a soft backstop:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSz_HtoauG0lLGeRxhpzXVXqDa6-xf90J4ABykFlMWKcec7JxDB8wX6Jbh5N4BWA4NMrHTquWKqdi9kf4H3OrQO3rItqAQGRPONOTgNZDetM1FdjYme3zB0NpB-uW35VH3itSJJrurSodTZKlhgF8CPHMRZFoWOUfXm4Fs-OS5wD4hpnB28Gfoi2vVGI0/s4032/IMG_0323.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSz_HtoauG0lLGeRxhpzXVXqDa6-xf90J4ABykFlMWKcec7JxDB8wX6Jbh5N4BWA4NMrHTquWKqdi9kf4H3OrQO3rItqAQGRPONOTgNZDetM1FdjYme3zB0NpB-uW35VH3itSJJrurSodTZKlhgF8CPHMRZFoWOUfXm4Fs-OS5wD4hpnB28Gfoi2vVGI0/s320/IMG_0323.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisXEpMvgmk6BodYteWtkUrLgAoC3f_Y90GGJDTmc2Iwn0q4ed50DezlZqOnLY6d-h2bfmW-fY4l964yi0mbUnhRMoumtwPfhRlxIRABDRF3bWuOCDQQWil8-5wnu4NiQ2OcfgbXpRPK96yuvmskZAgcpOQq8_bcTtrDbzrMAuGjn8jYeYTcT621HmlM50/s4032/IMG_0324.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisXEpMvgmk6BodYteWtkUrLgAoC3f_Y90GGJDTmc2Iwn0q4ed50DezlZqOnLY6d-h2bfmW-fY4l964yi0mbUnhRMoumtwPfhRlxIRABDRF3bWuOCDQQWil8-5wnu4NiQ2OcfgbXpRPK96yuvmskZAgcpOQq8_bcTtrDbzrMAuGjn8jYeYTcT621HmlM50/s320/IMG_0324.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Tips starting to debond.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Onto shortifying it:</div><div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIYwmhZa0abMIPOZza9eTHL3nHtD5Jq4rlT8ZfDrjz4uxTmBh12L6soCXnnGMXkT9mxzPu-VQkXe1rihsJKzwjhE_3epV8BPIKmlCpmcIRG4MVzu0yzTv2Cw4Mxm1-NzcZ2m56UsgRtHJ2AtGqsaCgeweDubZWD7NqDS7iJEb4aP0sXYCemuFDRfyr7u4/s1180/sureshot_blue_short_group_frame.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="668" data-original-width="1180" height="362" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIYwmhZa0abMIPOZza9eTHL3nHtD5Jq4rlT8ZfDrjz4uxTmBh12L6soCXnnGMXkT9mxzPu-VQkXe1rihsJKzwjhE_3epV8BPIKmlCpmcIRG4MVzu0yzTv2Cw4Mxm1-NzcZ2m56UsgRtHJ2AtGqsaCgeweDubZWD7NqDS7iJEb4aP0sXYCemuFDRfyr7u4/w640-h362/sureshot_blue_short_group_frame.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>Hey, look at that! Short darts are more accurate than full lengths! QED!</div></div><div><br /></div><div>Okay; but not so fast. Let's be fair and fire the full length <i>at the same velocity as the short</i>.</div></div><p></p><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpmC66L8bRggPfbZ_PVmpqUjrkTy2mg3-CGyBeMWGl7gL5IXvN-CyfjeJW2SHSSnVUuLHnQUvyMj63EhYuetu4nPbki9pDxppuE2orhMcr1siSprKhQ3fkvJn3uWnZXF_aRcIlCdtkcFTZAM3i_S6SkKzs3dzxDfT4hH4P-9Sd061ArtF52jPuDXsCTz8/s1180/sureshot_blue_fl_shortmatchingfps_group_frame.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="668" data-original-width="1180" height="362" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpmC66L8bRggPfbZ_PVmpqUjrkTy2mg3-CGyBeMWGl7gL5IXvN-CyfjeJW2SHSSnVUuLHnQUvyMj63EhYuetu4nPbki9pDxppuE2orhMcr1siSprKhQ3fkvJn3uWnZXF_aRcIlCdtkcFTZAM3i_S6SkKzs3dzxDfT4hH4P-9Sd061ArtF52jPuDXsCTz8/w640-h362/sureshot_blue_fl_shortmatchingfps_group_frame.jpg" width="640" /></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Once again, a significant improvement in dispersion AND drop.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><h3 style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Waffle (Ekind, 06-23, blue and red foam)</h3><div><br /></div><div>Another classic superstock era dart.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbYtMHbpwR4T04WcpNWQkJrEuLgv9S819tZF4kKSECyy3e-wj6QoT_Rpgy7C22mbg4zjwJBCFqXLXHdhNEdRc-mNAQSZIpkSN4_Rlcrz1ZFsi2bfBD83NG749GrSaoDAGCC071y7pQbqLtn_611ZsfqZLn_GUKN4BykanNdVAsqxus7x8wigTHaCwk3XA/s4032/IMG_0314.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbYtMHbpwR4T04WcpNWQkJrEuLgv9S819tZF4kKSECyy3e-wj6QoT_Rpgy7C22mbg4zjwJBCFqXLXHdhNEdRc-mNAQSZIpkSN4_Rlcrz1ZFsi2bfBD83NG749GrSaoDAGCC071y7pQbqLtn_611ZsfqZLn_GUKN4BykanNdVAsqxus7x8wigTHaCwk3XA/w640-h480/IMG_0314.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>Also another dart with crap glue that needs to be reglued in my opinion and were for this test.</div><div><br /></div><div>Dimensions:</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3koVvN30DN6aStQo769JS3fIzMOr2rMZggxUsIR4rW2NUXRxErAtE7IFw27H4BROJ1Z0m5LNeou7-mk9eW78b6KIGtEguBeKa254K5mDfC68To6dly6ZCZs-j-AcRoce2q0120c7YYi0VM6FBD87_OkZCNEABDhF_OiV0rkw-oUDvv9xHWPQcpCsW_98/s4032/IMG_0332.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3koVvN30DN6aStQo769JS3fIzMOr2rMZggxUsIR4rW2NUXRxErAtE7IFw27H4BROJ1Z0m5LNeou7-mk9eW78b6KIGtEguBeKa254K5mDfC68To6dly6ZCZs-j-AcRoce2q0120c7YYi0VM6FBD87_OkZCNEABDhF_OiV0rkw-oUDvv9xHWPQcpCsW_98/s320/IMG_0332.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1KjJUTce89JW19WBOlwZCyYhAf7nTcCO-HjnMhAe8uqeq9CCSU5Ugc-QnFHvHln8XGP96ekQ8YkE2D3lQpXRXJ186bLV-ATcNvKuka5kTy_MYqGYV9ph_D9FgAwAry4ZoluJdcGiOE2Haa5c7EdHsBW02rtD7MA-gAor3jsnthQItH84jvB0e7CdIdxY/s4032/IMG_0330.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1KjJUTce89JW19WBOlwZCyYhAf7nTcCO-HjnMhAe8uqeq9CCSU5Ugc-QnFHvHln8XGP96ekQ8YkE2D3lQpXRXJ186bLV-ATcNvKuka5kTy_MYqGYV9ph_D9FgAwAry4ZoluJdcGiOE2Haa5c7EdHsBW02rtD7MA-gAor3jsnthQItH84jvB0e7CdIdxY/s320/IMG_0330.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSQnWeN4dltud3eoMJ0vqbMC-5ZBYYET9OyGu6fEeSiOgPl0rXJa8L6eYTUw0wr4JGamkh0Lp4UF_mb2dq9zYwgNevmPESfSWo3nQS715ND4Zk04w8UWVppS9YZTekL9QQmTV4aNlOzFtoAb7PZJj84VEbyMZKYQTn4QMjiwhswSuG8BXEWSMdhTTDJH4/s4032/IMG_0331.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSQnWeN4dltud3eoMJ0vqbMC-5ZBYYET9OyGu6fEeSiOgPl0rXJa8L6eYTUw0wr4JGamkh0Lp4UF_mb2dq9zYwgNevmPESfSWo3nQS715ND4Zk04w8UWVppS9YZTekL9QQmTV4aNlOzFtoAb7PZJj84VEbyMZKYQTn4QMjiwhswSuG8BXEWSMdhTTDJH4/s320/IMG_0331.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div>Mass:</div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>1.29g</li><li>1.31g</li><li>1.44g</li><li>1.39g</li><li>1.37g</li><li>1.33g</li><li>1.33g</li><li>1.37g</li><li>1.35g</li><li>1.34g</li></ul><div>Reds and blues were identical tips and were identical dimensionally, foam/qualitative-wise, mass-wise and velocity-wise far as I could tell from these batches. This batch has a quite soft tip compound and is for sure on the heavy side. Also, this foam sucks.</div></div><div><br /></div><div>Chrono as x72:</div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>174</li><li>169</li><li>173</li><li>165</li><li>162</li><li>176</li><li>165</li><li>175</li><li>160</li><li>157</li><li>182</li><li>174</li><li>153</li><li>171</li><li>170</li><li>170</li><li>166</li><li>170</li><li>177</li><li>178</li><li>172</li><li>170</li><li>167</li><li>176</li><li>173</li><li>170</li><li>174</li><li>182</li><li>173</li><li>179</li><li>167</li><li>180</li></ul><div>As short:</div></div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>142</li><li>148</li><li>157</li><li>153</li><li>145</li><li>137</li><li>158</li><li>150</li><li>154</li><li>149</li><li>148</li><li>150</li></ul><div>Group:</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIaqp8ORK_qw3-308jTAYhoQevHZHXEo-U5Xm3SRXHBeyw1O8eFwTI7ln8r_kaxDJQq3SMcesU9pKQVMj9m3Nisin5xho-nZnFG0bj_MXBpyYGQUqvh-qgaghjSlhLJYDhG8OoIn71RgyaY8nj91LpCXKQAbbuYqGybxRdr2eG9DIuV2MHW2Rp6PuyBf4/s1180/waffle_ekind_06-23_group_frame.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="668" data-original-width="1180" height="362" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIaqp8ORK_qw3-308jTAYhoQevHZHXEo-U5Xm3SRXHBeyw1O8eFwTI7ln8r_kaxDJQq3SMcesU9pKQVMj9m3Nisin5xho-nZnFG0bj_MXBpyYGQUqvh-qgaghjSlhLJYDhG8OoIn71RgyaY8nj91LpCXKQAbbuYqGybxRdr2eG9DIuV2MHW2Rp6PuyBf4/w640-h362/waffle_ekind_06-23_group_frame.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>(notice I separated red and blue darts here)</div><div><br /></div><div>Not THAT bad.</div><div><br /></div><div>But... Ewwwwwwwwww. Don't buy this batch. Just ...try to get a different dart than these. They are inconsistent as in every respect, including mass, with small bore weak wimpy foam that put my setups way in the hole on velocity. It's amazing they grouped as well as they did.</div></div><div><br /></div><div>Now let's shortify:</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9mi9jG3yV2ikUiR3W2QeFploCPrMTcn0mfgpj1iX1WvqKK0MtIV0MgH8kc4qOCTLabr1v0aTkp8ChDudl9eqvezEXqS9BANpLR7UHGWL3WSfl0e7oWtisIuFmLrSTsX2iqOagkQHXZ7OrXp5Brem61kIgqEgmGR4gmNYB1T9tKbuxrB1fp61cpY6XgTg/s1180/waff_ekind_06-23_SHORT_group_frame.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="668" data-original-width="1180" height="362" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9mi9jG3yV2ikUiR3W2QeFploCPrMTcn0mfgpj1iX1WvqKK0MtIV0MgH8kc4qOCTLabr1v0aTkp8ChDudl9eqvezEXqS9BANpLR7UHGWL3WSfl0e7oWtisIuFmLrSTsX2iqOagkQHXZ7OrXp5Brem61kIgqEgmGR4gmNYB1T9tKbuxrB1fp61cpY6XgTg/w640-h362/waff_ekind_06-23_SHORT_group_frame.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div>And try full length at matched velocity (N.b.: Red hitmarkers in this particular test are a mixture of red and blue foam darts):</div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgznwPeI6xWrhpZJKhXyBrH0AY4ZsfxNKkkMqe7AXWfiu5iQ2JFmBk-gYWuNXmeng9w3t8uNmt7I9qvFxMJrXOAzeiifdL-jUN9H54x0n9dXkJDcPwVCsxaZJ23L93US9emSFASAE5LakXzs0bNHhyYT6wcRxVXL9tQw4Ebqw35x5E3lxIu1Tk5nrS5QyE/s1180/waffle_ekind_06-23_MATCHING_VELOCITY_TO_SHORT.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="668" data-original-width="1180" height="362" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgznwPeI6xWrhpZJKhXyBrH0AY4ZsfxNKkkMqe7AXWfiu5iQ2JFmBk-gYWuNXmeng9w3t8uNmt7I9qvFxMJrXOAzeiifdL-jUN9H54x0n9dXkJDcPwVCsxaZJ23L93US9emSFASAE5LakXzs0bNHhyYT6wcRxVXL9tQw4Ebqw35x5E3lxIu1Tk5nrS5QyE/w640-h362/waffle_ekind_06-23_MATCHING_VELOCITY_TO_SHORT.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /></div><div>(Whoops. The 2 hitmarkers off in the plants ARE NOT flyers, they are an image editing mistake while plotting the hits. Disregard.)</div><div><br /></div><div>And last but not least...</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;">Prime Time (AF/Dart Zone) Max </h3><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRhrf3Qn5AXDqU-JXED7IBpCCjP82PAJtOqVYS8hIrCZxaqrxScwXcvr5cK4J8fet7t9QklR86ICrxa6OHxrpqG6fnu7pnbiq9S4i5Rve3P10Q1M-4Qjgeu1Z7vFr9lpub2Mdtzvi-n6sjOi9FCx14i28GEIwc9UT3avQ-ebr45V5c-jzwGSYkQyNpr2o/s3656/IMG_0316.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3656" height="530" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRhrf3Qn5AXDqU-JXED7IBpCCjP82PAJtOqVYS8hIrCZxaqrxScwXcvr5cK4J8fet7t9QklR86ICrxa6OHxrpqG6fnu7pnbiq9S4i5Rve3P10Q1M-4Qjgeu1Z7vFr9lpub2Mdtzvi-n6sjOi9FCx14i28GEIwc9UT3avQ-ebr45V5c-jzwGSYkQyNpr2o/w640-h530/IMG_0316.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>This is a well reputed dart of this type (a sub-caliber tip intended mainly for barrels, but there is a contingent advocating stuff like these, DZPs and Workers for flywheeling, mainly in association with either springer compatibility or with that branch of flywheel development where ridiculously small gaps like 7.0 or 6.3mm for instance are used in concert with them to get somewhat higher critical velocity than possible for a full-caliber tip type).</div><div><br /></div><div>Mass (**as full length):</div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>1.06g</li><li>1.08g</li><li>1.05g</li><li>1.05g</li><li>1.05g</li></ul><div>As short:</div></div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>0.88g</li><li>0.88g</li><li>0.87g</li><li>0.87g</li><li>0.89g</li></ul><div>Chrono as x72:</div></div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>183</li><li>177</li><li>188</li><li>176</li><li>186</li><li>174</li><li>184</li><li>180</li><li>185</li><li>179</li><li>183</li><li>184</li><li>187</li><li>190</li><li>187</li><li>185</li><li>189</li><li>188</li><li>186</li><li>188</li><li>190</li></ul><div>Chrono as short:</div></div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>150</li><li>148</li><li>162</li><li>161</li><li>156</li><li>155</li><li>159</li><li>162</li><li>155</li><li>157</li><li>157</li><li>155</li><li>158</li></ul><div>Dimensions:</div></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZe5NelaRjmiWkd_9QwRMsPDANOEYvLX7Kb7w6G8uUAxPcta47TPlpNA41YWk5wvHOHKASYF4wd3RhwhkNn-eHPxNJLX7Tfu3fEAklemNxHiyrPk7HR6ct6L5ASBNTDA8VqhaLh5AUVUz9G52C8cuPYlwvYlLTregUk-Wb1vXHSCy26yRg0GSd-3arvQA/s4032/IMG_0318.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2506" data-original-width="4032" height="199" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZe5NelaRjmiWkd_9QwRMsPDANOEYvLX7Kb7w6G8uUAxPcta47TPlpNA41YWk5wvHOHKASYF4wd3RhwhkNn-eHPxNJLX7Tfu3fEAklemNxHiyrPk7HR6ct6L5ASBNTDA8VqhaLh5AUVUz9G52C8cuPYlwvYlLTregUk-Wb1vXHSCy26yRg0GSd-3arvQA/s320/IMG_0318.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYtaGZ-Y17aHDnpVfqZgQ_U5aYADwWS7DmHDwF3Dgq1xFzjLamVrqtv61KejHTqzKtyTuaWKaxqm-oecjGplIT33i2QMfokgcou-1lFZKnFMAmqyDc8KZjYcrbBjBx0kqZP6_Lpo3pyAqCgRJgRbiQG3v89AyFsAwl-B0ehou_5a2VTq1q292cx-PxZco/s4032/IMG_0319.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYtaGZ-Y17aHDnpVfqZgQ_U5aYADwWS7DmHDwF3Dgq1xFzjLamVrqtv61KejHTqzKtyTuaWKaxqm-oecjGplIT33i2QMfokgcou-1lFZKnFMAmqyDc8KZjYcrbBjBx0kqZP6_Lpo3pyAqCgRJgRbiQG3v89AyFsAwl-B0ehou_5a2VTq1q292cx-PxZco/s320/IMG_0319.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOVSp2FCFMH3Z9r40Odlm4RMkxSaj84mvKhvEjFLfJe_9CRcOS9PnVtic64Ng_1gQL9m5NpJk_YwpF6-CAd2cVd_tw2XTPFw7o3iTUDCG9_V9qXoGB3DWo1ZMxKaTGBEOrAN1w4ziu9UNyOz3rE67Hz2Dt3Rj5h6W8FWRTQP9w24ie8dBif5Bpavr0J-A/s4032/IMG_0320.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOVSp2FCFMH3Z9r40Odlm4RMkxSaj84mvKhvEjFLfJe_9CRcOS9PnVtic64Ng_1gQL9m5NpJk_YwpF6-CAd2cVd_tw2XTPFw7o3iTUDCG9_V9qXoGB3DWo1ZMxKaTGBEOrAN1w4ziu9UNyOz3rE67Hz2Dt3Rj5h6W8FWRTQP9w24ie8dBif5Bpavr0J-A/s320/IMG_0320.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div>Groups...</div><div><br /></div><div>Full length:</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFwk_Ja4wJAXHrqI9OabaYrFUA5m3k5doBmCP3QJm6tJ5l8COaDBlyhtMoYKRk3BZPppQ-qEFAeFaDuHqaFgN8U_vtuoLrYuplYfzcOR56E8ZYlmctvTBOgPI40PqjfCjXPFRrNVylB7mKVpdwDxF3R1Ho1EIHFFD3ISsBsfqaaUPQmCfOFw0PPDAPQGk/s1180/Max_group_frame.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="668" data-original-width="1180" height="362" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFwk_Ja4wJAXHrqI9OabaYrFUA5m3k5doBmCP3QJm6tJ5l8COaDBlyhtMoYKRk3BZPppQ-qEFAeFaDuHqaFgN8U_vtuoLrYuplYfzcOR56E8ZYlmctvTBOgPI40PqjfCjXPFRrNVylB7mKVpdwDxF3R1Ho1EIHFFD3ISsBsfqaaUPQmCfOFw0PPDAPQGk/w640-h362/Max_group_frame.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>Very suboptimal but not totally unusable.</p><p>And short.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVI3w0dJm-8t5PzjmOv2qihNn7kcs0Wp427BGGfNYm5I9IP0Gq4bAw_aOo2KH7YcN-_7Bs6qbgtcqaFjgU_QmvLNeJIG-j-kiTkA7JDMUjis50oX3RqFGvJ8zKkP75ZhYQVQtesnFLkiBTo608kEur-5WyHF3PhqZ4qSwbploorTC8QBXhWkhxleR71xU/s1180/max_short_group_frame.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="668" data-original-width="1180" height="362" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVI3w0dJm-8t5PzjmOv2qihNn7kcs0Wp427BGGfNYm5I9IP0Gq4bAw_aOo2KH7YcN-_7Bs6qbgtcqaFjgU_QmvLNeJIG-j-kiTkA7JDMUjis50oX3RqFGvJ8zKkP75ZhYQVQtesnFLkiBTo608kEur-5WyHF3PhqZ4qSwbploorTC8QBXhWkhxleR71xU/w640-h362/max_short_group_frame.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>Nope. Garbage.</div><div><br /></div><div>I didn't even bother comparing the full length to the short at matching velocity.</div><div><br /></div><div>Overall, these are crap, and I'm fixing to return the unopened 2 cases I have.</div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Foam wear was significant and velocity depreciation awful when reused after being flywheeled. </li><li>So was the increase in dispersion after the darts were fired and struck objects, becoming a little dog-eared. They will only make a group like that first one once. Then they basically become Elites.</li><li>They don't seem very stable at ultrastock velocities. The short form of them was even more squirrelly at a lower velocity.</li></ul></div><div>I have a more detailed commentary to make on these, this whole notion of sub-caliber tips for flywheeling, and other stuff I gave a shot (including putting some of these through an experimental, significantly higher crush Hy-Con, and trying a few other random flavors of sub-caliber tip like DZ Pro and Worker that I had a handful of, incidentally) but the overarching junky results from these widely-advocated darts on fronts that are NOT simply a matter of velocity or velocity consistency (and hence might be addressed by systems designed with very small gaps exclusively for this class of dart) casts doubt on the credibility of that advocacy. I don't care if you can crank down on these things crazy tight and be a chrono hero. It's a fair point, but that is not what makes a good blaster.</div><div><br /></div><div>I would also add as a footnote that with all this short dart shooting going on, even though it was also isolated single shots and nothing ever went cyclic in here, a total of 7 failures to feed occurred. This is an example of observed stack tilt, with new darts ready for a test shoot:</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFH2wa44GaAhroLKoUK7sDOpRatYbrmqUHXyVXcPu75VBnUZM-Td8LcmtBJwfRB5vV72IABb7nUPSDkdm0MXjO-up39-07txzcG93tku5CbsgHnpSSRPkMxdyM8BaR021LaCXVf1deKTQ9o23_6jYMBw20vLOMHsZs-WRzu99VkwVRyS3BmL4JbyXi-Q8/s4032/IMG_0334.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFH2wa44GaAhroLKoUK7sDOpRatYbrmqUHXyVXcPu75VBnUZM-Td8LcmtBJwfRB5vV72IABb7nUPSDkdm0MXjO-up39-07txzcG93tku5CbsgHnpSSRPkMxdyM8BaR021LaCXVf1deKTQ9o23_6jYMBw20vLOMHsZs-WRzu99VkwVRyS3BmL4JbyXi-Q8/w480-h640/IMG_0334.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div>I have worse examples with Max darts.</div><div><br /></div><div>Problems were <i>not</i> linked to a tip type, contrary to what some of the goalpost-moving arguers have been editing their position toward lately ("Oh, it's just that you were using waffles and accustrikes! Small tips don't do that!"). Uh; Yeah they do. Max darts and assorted full-cals all exhibited some form of issue with the mags or with sticky feeding. And my mags are very clean and new because they almost never see the field compared to my full length gear.</div><div><br /></div><div>To be specific these were typically low-feeds where the tip crashes into the inside of the mag body or otherwise hangs up instead of making it cleanly down the feed ramp. The T19 was able to avoid crushing the dart, recover and keep shooting on the next trigger pull every time, but repeating this with a different blaster would tend to not end well.</div><div><br /></div><div>All of that's properly for the followup analysis post, though. For now I just wanted to get this stuff up. Also, more is coming. I'm going to try to capture data from as many random blasters as I can at local events, for instance.</div><p></p></div>torukmakto4http://www.blogger.com/profile/10734470012890561585noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7793811623191911228.post-3903872810152206092023-06-23T21:10:00.002-07:002023-06-23T21:15:27.954-07:00After action report: Reddit<p>OK, I’ll admit it: this title is a bit dramatic. Reddit isn’t dead. There’s a significant distance left in the <a href="https://www.wired.com/story/tiktok-platforms-cory-doctorow/">enshittification pipeline</a> between where it is now and where we start organizing a funeral. </p><p>But - we don’t do after action reports exclusively on dead blasters, do we? An AAR comes after the close of a game or two or however much use leads to lessons worth posting. That is the spirit in which this is intended: we’re at the end of an era. The reactions back-and-forth between Reddit admins and users following the recent API changes have revealed things that cannot be unseen. Reddit admins can no longer be trusted. The forums of old were resilient because they were distributed and compartmentalized. If one went down, there were others. If one became crappy, we could vote with our feet. Centralization on Reddit brought us convenience at the cost of that resilience - a mistake which it is hopefully not to late to reverse. </p><p>That centralization happened for <i>reasons</i>: there are things that Reddit did right and so there are lessons to be learned from it; lessons which may be vital in creating a non-Reddit renaissance. </p><p>(I’ll spoil the conclusion of the post, which is that I’m cautiously optimistic about the Reddit alternative Lemmy. I expect to see a migration to some combination of old forums, discord, FB, and possibly Lemmy. I hope to see that migration go more towards old forums and Lemmy - but before we get to that, let’s cover what made Reddit great.)<br /></p><span><a name='more'></a></span><p></p><p></p><p></p><p style="text-align: left;"> </p><h1 style="text-align: left;">Content</h1><p style="text-align: left;"> </p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Aggregation</h3><p style="text-align: left;">Reddit was an aggregator originally and to a large extent it still is. The nice thing about being an aggregator is that you don’t need to already have as many users to attract users. You aren’t competing with other websites to be the first place where something gets posted; a small userbase posting and curating links to other sites can generate a lot of good content. </p><p>More generally, the easier it is to port exiting content onto a platform, the less the barrier to generating that critical volume of content that makes a site worth checking. If you are making an e.g. list of nerf clubs, it’d really help if each club could link their own website. If you want a place where people can show off blaster builds, it’d really help if people could link to their own writeup(s) which already exist elsewhere. </p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Customizability</h3><p>Reddit allows people to construct customized front page feeds of whichever combinations of subReddits they prefer. Do you like nerf, 3d printing, specifically functional prints, and specifically <i>not</i> a bunch of people asking for printer help? There’s a subReddit for each of those things. Do you also like this one obscure computer game? There’s a sub for that too. What makes this exceptionally good for users is the combination of all of this in one place: not just one website but one front page. It’s the digital equivalent of a convenience store catered specifically to you.</p><p>This is all far more important for casual users than for . . . oh, pretty much anyone who’s likely to read this. So, it’s easy to underestimate how important this is. Keep in mind that casual users are the bulk of the community and, longterm, where dedicated hobbyists start. </p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Quality content boosting</h3><p>The upvote system allows the content which generates the most immediately positive attention to rise to the place where it becomes the first thing that people see. This creates a good first impression, both on the first visit and the start of each browsing session. </p><p>Someone who is passing by a page briefly (e.g. if they have a 5-minute break at work) will almost certainly want to see just the most popular stuff first as that’s all that they’ll see. Someone who browses often enough to see about half of what’s posted will probably prefer to see the more popular half. Someone who reads everything might not mind the order of presentation (but also see “options” further down). </p><p>This applies to comments as well as posts. Your first impression of a thread under Reddit’s default sorting option will be a highly upvoted top-level comment, a highly upvoted reply, a highly upvoted reply to the reply, etc. </p><p><br /></p><h1 style="text-align: left;">Self-moderation through voting... </h1><p style="text-align: left;"> </p><h3 style="text-align: left;">...as a compliment to manual moderation</h3><p>The upvote (and importantly also <i>down</i>vote) system serves to make communities mildly self-moderating in a way that serves as a valuable compliment (and to be clear, not substitute) for manual moderation. Compared to manual moderation, the self-moderating effects of voting are:<br /></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Easier; content being downvoted takes up none of the moderators’ finite time and effort. </li><li>Faster; downvoting moves bad content into a less visible position as soon as users see it, which will generally be faster as users outnumber moderators. </li><li>More granular; moderators can either remove or not remove content. There’s a scale of quality, and a point on that scale where removal is too harsh but we don’t want the content to be prominent either. </li><li>Not prone to perceived (and on some subs real) moderator bias. </li><li>More democratic-feeling and therefore deserved-feeling for someone on the receiving end; a pile of downvotes requires a pile of downvoters. </li></ul><p>The ease, granularity, and democratic feel of self-moderation are especially beneficial to moderation for quality. The speed and freedom from perceived moderator bias are especially beneficial for moderation for civility. <br /><br /></p><h3 style="text-align: left;">...as a substitute for other forms of self-moderation</h3><p style="text-align: left;">Every community has some form of self-moderation available to it, even if its just warning other users about manual moderation or sending other users nasty replies. Allowing users to downvote bad content serves as a pressure-relief valve for the desire to do <i>something</i> to fix the problem for the community that the bad content represents. Compared to other forms of self-moderation, voting is:<br /></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Nicer; being downvoted sucks but it’s a lot better than being dogpiled. </li><li>Provokes less backlash; being downvoted provides no specific targets to angrily lash out against. </li><li>Less disruptive; backseat-moderating or nasty replies to bad content are themselves a form of bad content. </li></ul><p>That last point deserves emphasis: <b>voting means that bad content slides into obscurity quickly and generates less bad content as engagement</b>: repetitive or vicious arguments, dogpiling, etc.</p><p>Have you ever seen threads that seem to never die on traditional forums, where people keep joining in an argument that goes nowhere because the thread is always visible, and the thread is always visible because people keep joining in? That’s one of the major downsides of sorting by engagement. Reddit-likes not only don’t do that, but with downvoting can do the opposite of that.</p><p><br /></p><h1 style="text-align: left;">Presentation and functionality</h1><p style="text-align: left;"> </p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Discussion</h3><p>Reddit structures comment threads in a useful way: replies are displayed below the comment to which they reply, allowing several separate conversations to exist in the same comments thread without them mixing together. A reader can follow one discussion at a time. Reddit also indents replies, which makes the structure of conversations easier to follow. </p><p>An online conversation is a tree (as in the data structure, not the plant). Representing that structure in a way that allows it to be displayed on a page is a nontrivial challenge. Traditional forums take the easiest way out: they just list every node in the tree, oldest first. Reddit’s approach requires more complex code but allows a reader to obtain a much clearer view of a discussion. <br /></p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Density</h3><p>The old Reddit interface fits a large amount of information into a given amount of screen space, with just enough bells and whistles to make the page easy to visually parse. It’s an old-looking (and actually old) style of web design, but it’s great in terms of functionality. Unlike traditional forums, no space is wasted on user icons and signatures on comment pages. <br /></p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Sorting options</h3><p>Reddit gives readers options for how they’d like content to be sorted, with new vs. top/hot/best being the major distinction. People who want to deep-dive a subreddit and read everything on it can do so. People who want to skim and just see the best stuff can do so too. This makes Reddit accommodating to both committed and casual users. </p><p>Worth noting: the setting that serves casual users the best is “hot,” and that’s the default - which is appropriate as casual users are the ones who are less likely to change their settings. </p><p>Traditional forums are fine for, and seem designed for, people who want to deep-dive and read everything. This unfortunately means that there’s a barrier to entry for casual readers: to find the “good” (from a casual user’s perspective) stuff, you need to dig for it. </p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Interface options</h3><p>Reddit has (at least for now) multiple interfaces which all let people interact with the same content while respecting different devices, preferences, and accessibility requirements. Old Reddit and new Reddit are the big two that we all know; there’s also an official mobile Reddit app and (though this is changing) various unofficial ones with additional moderation and accessibility features. There was also the now-defunct i.reddit, which was a simplified interface originally intended for mobile web browsers. </p><p>Having multiple interface options is <i>way</i> down the list of important features - but it’s still nice to have, even if nowhere near worth the effort that it would require for most forums. </p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Extensibility</h3><p>One of Reddit’s greatest strengths was how much help it managed to bring in from volunteers. The browser plugins Reddit Enhancement Suite and Toolbox were developed by users, as were many useful moderator bots. All of these provided value to Reddit, at no cost to Reddit, all due to people’s desire to help the communities that exist on Reddit. (That’s not to mention that moderators themselves are also all volunteers!)</p><p> </p><h1 style="text-align: left;">So . . . Lemmy? </h1><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p>Lemmy is new and unfamiliar to us nerfers, so it gets its own section. </p><p>Lemmy takes Reddit’s strengths, then dials some of them up to 11 while mixing in the decentralized strength of the old forums. It’s like Reddit, except distributed - there’s multiple servers (called instances) which each host a few “subreddits” (called communities) and share content with each other. The whole thing ends up being a lot like Reddit from a user’s perspective, with the connections (called federation) between instances being handled behind the scenes. </p><p><a href="https://i.imgur.io/b2QuYAR_d.webp?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=medium">Here’s an explanation of how it works.</a> Lenny is part of a broader fediverse which, potentially confusingly, has multiple types of site which share some (but AFAIK not all) types of content: Lemmy, kbin (another Reddit alternative with more social-media-like features), and Mastodon (a twitter alternative). The reason why I’m focusing on Lemmy is that it’s the most like Reddit. </p><p>So, lets run down that list of features: <br /></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Resiliency through decentralization: yes. That’s kinda the whole point of the fediverse.We generated splinter subs as we expanded; with Lemmy we could have splinters on multiple servers. <br /></li><li>Aggregation, customizability, quality content boosting: yup, just like Reddit.</li><li>Self-moderation through voting: Yes, with a quirk: some Lemmy instances don’t allow downvoting, but this is a feature that only affects people who use a no-downvoting instances. Content viewed from an instance with downvoting can be downvoted regardless of where it's from, and AFAIK those downvotes will be respected by other instances with downvoting. <br /></li><li>Discussion, density, and sorting options: yes, all very much like old reddit. Many Lemmy instances have an optional darkmode (like what RES did) that’s on by default. </li><li>Interface options: believe it or not, yes, Lemmy even has this nice-but-nowhere-near-necessary feature. Each instance has its own appearance and the content from other instances which is viewed on it will be formatted to fit. Right now, all of the Lemmy instances that I’ve seen look a lot like old reddit but there’s no reason why that has to stay true. There’s even <a href="https://lemmy.world/c/syncforlemmy">mobile support</a>, with <a href="https://tech.lgbt/@hariette/110562926792208789">multiple apps</a> hotly in development in anticipation of migration from the various soon-to-be-dead reddit apps. </li><li>Extensibility: <a href="https://github.com/LemmyNet/lemmy">the whole thing is open source</a>. You can’t get much more extensible than that. </li></ul><p>The only thing that Lemmy is missing right now is a critical mass of people, and <a href="https://sub.rehab/">that’s changing</a>. </p><p>I came here to talk about Reddit and ended up gushing about Lemmy instead, so I’ll stop here.</p><p> </p><h1 style="text-align: left;">The future</h1><p style="text-align: left;"> </p><p>Thus far, I’ve mainly been talking about lessons learned from Reddit and about that I <i>hope</i> will happen. The question of what I <i>expect</i> will happen is a different one, and we do need to talk about it a bit. Let’s talk about the places where nerfers could go:<br /></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Stay on Reddit: this is the default option, and it’s probably going to be what a disappointingly large number of people do. For those that do, we can use Reddit to promote other platforms. </li><li>Migrate to discord: kinda? There are nerfy discords, but discord is optimized for ongoing conversations with small groups of people. You can “keep up” with a conversation i.e. scroll through everything, or let yourself skip chunks - but there’s very little in the way of sorting, discovery, archiving, etc. That’s fine for conversations but terrible for aggregation and content discovery. </li><li>Migrate to Facebrick: this is the elephant in the room that I haven’t addressed until now. Facebrick has become the de facto default for nerf clubs to keep in touch and share local news and organize upcoming events. The problem here is that <a href="https://thezvi.wordpress.com/2017/04/22/against-facebook/">Facebrick really really sucks.</a> Fortunately it seems bad enough for discussing general news with a large community that we’ll hopefully stay away from pressing it into that use. Hopefully. </li><li>Blogs: who here remembers blogs? (You’re reading one now!) Blogs remain an excellent place for hosting content that gets linked elsewhere and for a few other purposes, but blogs are no longer viable as a method of large-scale content discovery and sharing. The days when large numbers of reasonable people check a list of their favorite blogs regularly are largely over - it’s just inconvenient to check so many different websites for updates which might not even be there. </li><li>Migrate back to the old forums (or to old-style new forums): this is going to be a great option for dedicated hobbyists and for those of us with long enough memories to have come to like to forums of old - but this can’t be the <i>only</i> place the NIC goes. Traditional forums can support the hard core but they aren’t friendly to the casual cloud that surrounds and feeds it. The migration to Reddit happened for reasons, after all. </li><li>Migrate to a Reddit-like website, which is both most likely and most hopefully on the fediverse, and most likely Lemmy: this is the option that’s grabbed my attention. </li></ul><p>What I expect to happen if we just let this run its course is some combination of the first five options, tilted mainly towards Reddit and old forums plus some difficult-to-predict amount towards Facebrick. <br /><br />What intrigues me is that migration to Lemmy is something that we could <i>make</i> happen alongside the other options. Lemmy might not become <i>the</i> de facto hub for the NIC (and I’m not sure if I’d even want it to) but it could very well be made to become <i>a</i> hub. It’s not the easiest path forwards in the short term but I believe that it would be beneficial in the long term, for reasons that I hope will be clear based on the rest of this post. </p><p>I expect that the probability of success if we push Lemmy is high enough to make it well worth the attempt. </p><p>Despite all of my talk about the value of decentralization, I do believe that we have the best chance of making Lemmy work if our efforts are focused in one place at the start. For every social media website, there exists a critical mass of users which generates enough content to keep people coming back - and whatever that mass is, the most critical thing is to not let yourself languish below that threshold. R/nerf started generating splinter subs when we got big - first nerfexchange, then nerfchatter and a bunch more. That’s what we expect to see eventually if we succeed, but it’s not how we succeed at the start. </p><p> </p><h1 style="text-align: left;">Actionable stuff</h1><p style="text-align: left;"> </p><p>Go and support old forums. They already exist. Read the rules, of course - some of them are a bit idiosyncratic - but other than that you can go and post and read nerfy stuff on them <i>right now</i>. </p><p>Seek nerfy communities off reddit whose format and functionality pleases you. Maybe you do actually like having a bookmarked list of blogs, if you’re reading this one.</p><p>If I’ve convinced you that Lemmy should be part of the NIC, then let’s work together and make one community to push first to attain a critical self-sustaining mass of users. (Also, on that subject: check the author of this post. I’m Herbert_W, not this blog’s usual author. Despite certain rumors to the contrary, we are not the same person. I'm still contactable on Reddit and will most likely have Lemmy contact info soon.)<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></p>Herbert Westhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07851465637020711961noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7793811623191911228.post-56489954876674618222023-06-22T18:36:00.001-07:002023-06-23T03:25:25.743-07:00Test/Review: Prime Time Sureshot green tip, red foam ("chili"/"diamond")<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This dart has been known variously around the NIC as "chili" or "green[/red] diamond". It is the second on the market of Prime Time (Dart Zone, Adventure Force)'s two offerings of structured-absorber/honeycomb style darts with full-caliber tips under the Sureshot branding - the first being the blue layered tip dart with (usually) lime green foam that is more commonplace and definitely more well documented.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfmZQ8TPARPUHnlaAj6Rdxm8j0-jxSbqLuzCRUMBDnyHH-GBA6vGAnCnDYCjyWimsPmn2daYaoF5YlzKvtKMsjDhOqduL3hDaR51d1GMt4JAiomT_o0aG3pmxFeA9GzBDUHE0T5oa8Z-tpeD6R6gqgZ3prAIMb-b2z7B_imBIPuL3aXpTbte9ZKdC3kxA/w640-h480/IMG_0306.JPG" width="640" /><br /><br />I have been meaning to look into these for a while, partially because there is a distinct lack of information on them.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><i>Edit: 06-23-23 Fix typos and formatting</i><br /><br /><br /><br />I'll get to doing similar writeups for the blue tip Sureshot and a couple batches of waffle and accutip soon enough.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_o2JHM03GfbN3dnC1FIL1OPqw7Q1UmUm7rY1-rfQSnyZXHF1zwW2FZHMSYU6_YlIv6UQ5FwPPFMdxsuEFJzMkBXo-YMXy3wK90Ugugg_NR0ntFIHlysNtJLLKI4Sg5LJYHUU89LOthdXbLfqy_piYw45LL7TvRtovPPUsGN7RKhAUD_PO2FmGE2n_ft0/s4032/IMG_0305.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_o2JHM03GfbN3dnC1FIL1OPqw7Q1UmUm7rY1-rfQSnyZXHF1zwW2FZHMSYU6_YlIv6UQ5FwPPFMdxsuEFJzMkBXo-YMXy3wK90Ugugg_NR0ntFIHlysNtJLLKI4Sg5LJYHUU89LOthdXbLfqy_piYw45LL7TvRtovPPUsGN7RKhAUD_PO2FmGE2n_ft0/s320/IMG_0305.JPG" width="240" /></a></div></div><span><a name='more'></a></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>First let's get the boring but important stuff out of the way:<p></p><p>These were purchased a couple days ago from Amazon in a case of 300 rounds for $23.99 US. A little under 8 cents a round is overall a good price.</p><p><br /></p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Mass</h3><p><br /></p><p>5 random pulls from the case went onto the lab balance: 1.05g, 1.03g, 1.04g, 1.03g, 1.03g.</p><p>This is very similar to the blue tip Sureshot dart at typically 1.045g. This is a light dart, and there is a bit of pause to be given about reach outdoors as with the blue tip Sureshot, but preliminarily these are not as droppy and "hit a wall and fall out of the sky" as the blue tip regardless, which suggests this distinction is aerodynamic. I may go back on that once I combat test these next event, but at the available distance to shoot at this site they shot well. More on that with the group test.</p><p><br /></p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Dimensional</h3><p><br /></p><p>All the darts I measured were extremely close to the same length as this one at 73.2mm. This is overshooting the OAL spec of the 12.7x72mm by over 1mm, but well within the tolerance. Perhaps some old revolvers of dodgy design might have issues with projectile tips dragging and causing problems.<br /><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhywpP1ta6Smp1np21Id09iXPd29hy6KtpztT8R0B1wCHUjL5AF73FEFeA2ez1DB-HGFFEV7LvRbLwWyRRob7iN3t2YFhSgwV09jubmgsBo6gXEU6PL2lraGuFEWvUZeY6cWzl7aLgr0js7-K7NJx_WdmLJzYyOOTyoeURJcwvk_zUtYqoFkMZVjGgjwAA/s4032/IMG_0310.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhywpP1ta6Smp1np21Id09iXPd29hy6KtpztT8R0B1wCHUjL5AF73FEFeA2ez1DB-HGFFEV7LvRbLwWyRRob7iN3t2YFhSgwV09jubmgsBo6gXEU6PL2lraGuFEWvUZeY6cWzl7aLgr0js7-K7NJx_WdmLJzYyOOTyoeURJcwvk_zUtYqoFkMZVjGgjwAA/w640-h480/IMG_0310.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p>Tip OD: 11.97mm, slightly sub-caliber. This is a good reliability feature for mags to keep tips from contacting. Still, note that this is strictly a "flywheel dart". I would never try to use it in a barreled blaster. It may happen to work in a long barrel, but consider this incidental.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXSIH8IptiV6MkGqyJ5_a5DL0zXFON1oS8icyH4msoooGBtGUZ6baH8p4XFiU_-IkkiwfBK8Dl0tM9Ec3h8ErR-tzWTnSmxCoUKlwhkSbtlnJUdXcN8b1WpYBYelEOahW6k5plPoevy7GK63jQun5fpqCceKE9C40CJXJS_IoKeyXimLJ9IzETajaaV8w/s4032/IMG_0309.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXSIH8IptiV6MkGqyJ5_a5DL0zXFON1oS8icyH4msoooGBtGUZ6baH8p4XFiU_-IkkiwfBK8Dl0tM9Ec3h8ErR-tzWTnSmxCoUKlwhkSbtlnJUdXcN8b1WpYBYelEOahW6k5plPoevy7GK63jQun5fpqCceKE9C40CJXJS_IoKeyXimLJ9IzETajaaV8w/w400-h300/IMG_0309.JPG" width="400" /></a><br /><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Undeformed foam OD was consistently about 12.9mm</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0WZi2wG1gjNJtCoaIagezFJx9YHLakxAZmboytH3OpOHizvEe_pgI-B1k3mmW4roBziL7nSQipfSJol8jdfHoILv6n_ilflcYkwWVUrisgIfn-n9jATO2OfB7qAqz3neG58pGBP_0L2NnCO0ss2JkiiqgYp6yi58GP-ROuZQZXHJyS4fkGbZfBUKHawQ/w400-h300/IMG_0308.JPG" width="400" /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Foam roundness was excellent. Prime Time ships darts in carefully dimensioned cardboard cartons filled completely with ammo such that it cannot rattle around nor is any pressure exerted on it, and this packaging works much better for preventing foams from getting beat up in shipping than vendors that use plastic bagged 10 round "clips".</p><p style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Tips are glued on with rubberized adhesive.</p><p style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I didn't get a disassembled tip image but the core length is fairly short like the blue tip and glue application is complete and without residue/flash.</p><p style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></p><h3 style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And onto functional testing!</h3><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Magazine feeding is solid. None of the blue tip's occasional issues are observed with tip friction.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfwWqLoma7RQzswVYyfsX0WyB0yRnuTL1Wjnj6iLRvSSzaDztIYXvN4hMhPd2bXFKbh8MioP_Vl9IHaWAmTJ7jKhiNe7I4oNRQZe11jstpbJOdKmhSPi3LDHe6_CmAekAJv579oQ74n9AOJlTBoUwwTCYJ-cnDFncrn0iJv3SyfT4Vmz632oiZ4yS1hNo/s4032/IMG_0311.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfwWqLoma7RQzswVYyfsX0WyB0yRnuTL1Wjnj6iLRvSSzaDztIYXvN4hMhPd2bXFKbh8MioP_Vl9IHaWAmTJ7jKhiNe7I4oNRQZe11jstpbJOdKmhSPi3LDHe6_CmAekAJv579oQ74n9AOJlTBoUwwTCYJ-cnDFncrn0iJv3SyfT4Vmz632oiZ4yS1hNo/w640-h480/IMG_0311.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The compound used in these tips is significantly higher durometer than that of the Sureshot blue and the tackiness is lower.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I ran these through the usual suspect, this Delta 9.0 T19:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-AcEczeb3K4-t6tKs3pPL8Ov_bQnseoagFfHHWPcTXcT2rzDdmASk1m__Gz1tu8lBwMiwRAdsWexCfgSLaA2-kE98NkeeNAJmmQNaHrd7FGSIv8BIyQAL8XDSb4IxnWaac542lvQYQKHD64BcvMiPejIXtv0NzKKXori-CfKW_LLTgFIonUYhF93FjaM/s4032/IMG_0312.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-AcEczeb3K4-t6tKs3pPL8Ov_bQnseoagFfHHWPcTXcT2rzDdmASk1m__Gz1tu8lBwMiwRAdsWexCfgSLaA2-kE98NkeeNAJmmQNaHrd7FGSIv8BIyQAL8XDSb4IxnWaac542lvQYQKHD64BcvMiPejIXtv0NzKKXori-CfKW_LLTgFIonUYhF93FjaM/w480-h640/IMG_0312.JPG" width="480" /></a><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><h3 style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Chrono</h3><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">I have a new Caldwell and I used that. Conditions were outdoors, mid 80s F, very high humidity by the way. New darts. Units, feet per second:</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">196</div><div style="text-align: left;">195</div><div style="text-align: left;">194</div><div style="text-align: left;">195</div><div style="text-align: left;">196</div><div style="text-align: left;">195</div><div style="text-align: left;">191</div><div style="text-align: left;">196</div><div style="text-align: left;">192</div><div style="text-align: left;">194</div><div style="text-align: left;">193</div><div style="text-align: left;">194</div><div style="text-align: left;">197</div><div style="text-align: left;">197</div><div style="text-align: left;">196</div><div style="text-align: left;">194</div><div style="text-align: left;">194</div><div style="text-align: left;">192</div><div style="text-align: left;">195</div><div style="text-align: left;">190</div><div style="text-align: left;">192</div><div style="text-align: left;">195</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Well, I would call that... not shabby in the slightest.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">I did have some concerns about non-uniform stiffness of the tips that turned out to not be an issue at all. That is probably somewhat being mitigated because I'm using a circular gap flywheel system. If you are shooting these on something with a strongly asymmetric gap you might find that is increasing your velocity spread and want to choose something radially symmetric like an accutip or the Sureshot blue instead.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;">Dispersion</h3><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">I did a brief target shoot with constant point of aim and a camera rolling to record a sample group. New darts except 3 reused ones that snuck in from the chrono shoot. Distance to target was 50 feet from the cage measured by Bosch laser rangefinder and the target (a gate) for site reasons was slightly oblique to the shooter.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dyWY0JUaCNZ99NopHPhCrKZTAy9qP9KViM3erF-ECeC80uwtbSMFD1FAvx21PUkNreL-15eusUcPLaoed63_g' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;">That may be difficult with the Blogger video embed to make that bigger so here is the framecap marked up with the hits as an image (green plus is the POA and red squares are POIs):</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQBWCJA-xzueIwg2vPBW6354WIwg_HVBknkrogNCrXjXi0l2fa48t6khJu9CjE3X2_Rg9FQEVNl6PT0Dk5kdCmtK7ud6n-572ilxnMVT_sHUoa5CyCes0Tp5BVcklWh88_zdlUFRTTUTsWMXtLVj7dBtaPn09fvBxt7EveLuc4Gqj9RnEz38SRQoplqVk/s1180/GreenTipSureshot_group_frame_anno.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="668" data-original-width="1180" height="362" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQBWCJA-xzueIwg2vPBW6354WIwg_HVBknkrogNCrXjXi0l2fa48t6khJu9CjE3X2_Rg9FQEVNl6PT0Dk5kdCmtK7ud6n-572ilxnMVT_sHUoa5CyCes0Tp5BVcklWh88_zdlUFRTTUTsWMXtLVj7dBtaPn09fvBxt7EveLuc4Gqj9RnEz38SRQoplqVk/w640-h362/GreenTipSureshot_group_frame_anno.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Farthest flyers are about 18" apart laterally, same-ish spread vertically. Most shots clustered up very nicely.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Not too bad!</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">POA was with my usual combat zero on my eotech which was set for (usually heavier) waffle and accutip darts at this range so this is an encouraging sign indeed about the drop/flatness/velocity retention issue with the blue tip Sureshot being improved on with this dart.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">In all this I had 0 decaps, 1 tip become slightly debonded around the edge (I threw that in the "to be glued" bin with the other decap darts and tips), and 1 dart exploded on impact:</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4wKJhLEuPppr-8gNMpxLjXMbMKNuoIpRZ-4xRNgchejf0Px5PLyFP_TaOjFlw1Y8ONsq0L89eTePDwSqvt-sHfnfyETGcbrRUrl88t53gdn0esJNLSG50y-m1s4xGjJHL00jxiothRbeWyi89ZF-XVd3YXqx7ZcDxKVsIhdBqfiTcdvusLlCgbIt8nPo/s4032/IMG_0313.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4wKJhLEuPppr-8gNMpxLjXMbMKNuoIpRZ-4xRNgchejf0Px5PLyFP_TaOjFlw1Y8ONsq0L89eTePDwSqvt-sHfnfyETGcbrRUrl88t53gdn0esJNLSG50y-m1s4xGjJHL00jxiothRbeWyi89ZF-XVd3YXqx7ZcDxKVsIhdBqfiTcdvusLlCgbIt8nPo/w640-h480/IMG_0313.JPG" width="640" /></a></div></div></div><br /><br />To be fair, those hits were really hard (listen to them in the video clip). These do seem to retain energy very well for such a light projectile.<div><br /></div><div><h3 style="text-align: left;">Overall</h3><div><br /></div>I'm <i>impressed</i>.<p></p></div><div>I do recommend. Very much. I plan to buy more. Maybe a LOT more.</div><div><br /></div><div><i>How</i> is this dart so underreviewed and underappreciated?</div><div><br /></div><div>I look forward very much to unleashing these sweet angry things on whatever most unfortunate field next game.</div>torukmakto4http://www.blogger.com/profile/10734470012890561585noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7793811623191911228.post-64091181811383773582023-06-19T04:05:00.000-07:002023-06-19T04:05:05.872-07:00Coming UngluedProblems with the glue used to mount tips to foam on cheap bulk darts such as waffle, accutip/whirlwind, etc. are familiar in the hobby, as are seeing darts decapitated on firing, darts exploding on impact with hard targets, and finding handfuls of disassembled dart components on a field during sweeps. Those of us who have been around more than a few years have been lamenting and lambasting dart assembly quality for probably their whole nerfing career. Even these days, with better glued options on the market, waffle and accutip continue to be staples of most any field and can be normally observed in action (decaps included) at anything from a small local HvZ to a league-aligned comp match.<div><br /></div><div>For some background, this disassembled accutip dart is typical of how all the "usual suspect" Chinese vendors assemble darts:<div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSyKc7qfY2Jl-5OjmHljAkFSb329BEJ_KBZFeT1MxAWAza9E7pV07V4Z6Ke1YsaY1232AKn3elVGmSQZV6d_xHB42GM8CleK4BsFChlkBtC8vU8UuTJx1lMiWFM3TATc79nez88A7w4v9zm7lJjywUTqxY-_nmfq-rMQPsYelRCEkpqAHAfCq6OrdG/s4032/IMG_0296.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSyKc7qfY2Jl-5OjmHljAkFSb329BEJ_KBZFeT1MxAWAza9E7pV07V4Z6Ke1YsaY1232AKn3elVGmSQZV6d_xHB42GM8CleK4BsFChlkBtC8vU8UuTJx1lMiWFM3TATc79nez88A7w4v9zm7lJjywUTqxY-_nmfq-rMQPsYelRCEkpqAHAfCq6OrdG/w400-h300/IMG_0296.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>Problem zero is that this is CA glue - which is NOT the right product to assemble darts with. It is far too rigid when cured, and makes for a brittle bond. Although the CA itself may not break or debond from the foam or rubber, its inflexibility causes the joint to be unable to redistribute stress, and the foam just adjacent to the glue rips easily. CA also wicks into the cell structure of foam, which has the effect (after curing) of making the foam crunchy and brittle adjacent to the bond when it is used on the cut end.</div></div><div><br /></div><div>Problem one is that adhesive is applied only (and usually very sparingly) to the tip core, and none to the rear surface of the tip where it seats on the foam end. This is the elephant in the room here, some readers may know why. For now though, here's an example that barely had any bond area at all.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzp_hT30C5mDIH_sMNy6nSmbyXYlv-herpYOhkbmX-b7UQ91Nv6PIsC3utYCDkcKrefyNvRzyM4nHAt4xZq3wmNFtwNIuBjGbJ7Rty1F66Vn_qwd73sqVcKssR40ZmBzBSgsNyEWs4sjktvXYvO8CARjUwqDftnxRaZjjamy3t_cvBlLr6ygrCdCBC/s4032/IMG_0299.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzp_hT30C5mDIH_sMNy6nSmbyXYlv-herpYOhkbmX-b7UQ91Nv6PIsC3utYCDkcKrefyNvRzyM4nHAt4xZq3wmNFtwNIuBjGbJ7Rty1F66Vn_qwd73sqVcKssR40ZmBzBSgsNyEWs4sjktvXYvO8CARjUwqDftnxRaZjjamy3t_cvBlLr6ygrCdCBC/w400-h300/IMG_0299.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>And hence, the old flywheeler's vexation, decaps.</div><div><br /></div><div>For much of the superstock/onward era (2012-present, more or less), these dodgy CA-glued darts have been just a given we all had to contend with, and something we designed around - based on the prevalence of these darts, in stock, un-reglued form, for community bins and private supplies as <i>the thing that enabled the entire hobby to scale up in game size and volume of fire in the first place</i>. The measure of true merit for any flywheel system was how much energy it could put out <i>without</i> being too brutal on darts to be welcome to feed off a community bin. That, incidentally, underlied the Hy-Con of the era, and consequently (and directly as well) Daybreak, a system that somewhat spiritually succeeded Eclipse, which was somewhat maligned and targeted by bans in its day for how harsh it was on ammo.</div><div><br /></div><div>More recently but still years AKA eons ago in nerf time, some more tightly hobby-aligned, vertically integrated dart vendors stepped up to the plate on the glue matter with properly glued hobby darts using elastomeric adhesives just like Hasbro. Mostly... that's Prime Time (DZP/AF). A lot of nerfers have probably just dumped bulk darts and changed suppliers to Prime Time, Worker et al., and hence are now wondering why I am posting about a problem that is in the past.</div><div><br /></div><div>Well, the lesson to be learned is not in the past. Neither are the darts, necessarily; but we'll get to that.</div><div><br /></div><div>A look at what is going on with these "glue on core only" assembly jobs:</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBUeZA_zwm3vokkxgC7HsinqurjyR_6CtW2dPuyEGtv0cAyrY20WaPfibC24RWtekvQU7OeT_1TC1AxMIg29FgPQyqdOV82MuncWGDXAEgs2Ak4yY7XAx5TR4WHRylqWBePjseAqIvJDU4D190MnnTDi9-tx3dR7e93jHLVGjVec8Rxb_gyIMoJcrdM38/s4032/IMG_0290.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBUeZA_zwm3vokkxgC7HsinqurjyR_6CtW2dPuyEGtv0cAyrY20WaPfibC24RWtekvQU7OeT_1TC1AxMIg29FgPQyqdOV82MuncWGDXAEgs2Ak4yY7XAx5TR4WHRylqWBePjseAqIvJDU4D190MnnTDi9-tx3dR7e93jHLVGjVec8Rxb_gyIMoJcrdM38/w400-h300/IMG_0290.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>Yeah that seems like it would make for <i>awesome</i> flywheeler internal ballistics, right...</div><div><br /></div><div>It's not like this is new knowledge at all - dart tips that aren't glued to the end face to the foam have been known to cause flywheel blasters issues ever since the era of clone Streamlines and later, ACC darts.</div><div><br /></div><div>It's just that up to this point, it has been assumed that this isn't a major problem for tips like the waffle, the accutip, the Sureshot, the Mengun, the brick/stagger tip, and so on. They still shoot fine, right. <i>Right.</i></div><div><br /></div><div>Mostly.</div><div><br /></div><div>Well, I was chasing 2 issues. One, at the last game I played, I had a lot of ...questionable ballistics. My full length 9.0 rigs with these offending darts incidentally did about the same on range, drop and group size when fired side by side with other flywheelers at the event using the ammo their owners fed them (Banned Blasters flywheels Gryphon, one of those beta Gavinfuzzy SBF things, full length and short FDL3 builds, etc.) but still I could tell something was <i>Not Right</i> and they were just shooting kinda dirty and under the weather. There wasn't a chrono onsite so I couldn't ascertain what velocity was doing under site conditions, but I was spamming at people I should have picked right off. I chalked it up to imagination, or me being mad rusty after being on hiatus for a while, or that using black darts was a terrible idea that makes it harder to see your "tracers" fly and compensate when there is any wind, but doubt remained that something untoward was going on with my setup that day.</div><div><br /></div><div>Two, I was trying to use these pictured batch of black foam accutip darts in some chrono sessions with T19s for a project to be discussed later, and holy crap, they DO shoot like garbage and I was not imagining things. I had strings of dud shots down in the 140s, 150s, 160s from a 9.0 cage at 25k, stuff going sideways as soon as it cleared the muzzle, and ...well, my other 2 batches of waffles and accus misbehaved the same way. Swapped <i>blasters</i>: Same results. <i>What on earth is going on???</i></div><div><br /></div><div>Granted, the weather during all of the above was typically 90-96 degrees Fahrenheit, near 100% humidity, and that may well be WHY this started manifesting so severely after having eluded notice for so long (part of it is also that I never actually used non-reglued bulks as a chrono or ballistic testing standard because of the decap rate expected of such darts, which was a problem I was willing to accept for the cost), but this brought to light the magnitude of this problem.</div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9wBpskB3d9tQA_iKdmeWjzm2_rpSYUqzEbEoagZU4EG38x8jjyc7sEc1FQ6IG26EzHz-6d0FtLZxSjfHW2ebKKmkzMXtdnpSUiTacwif93RF6yC6wq2cLDvAm8fJbbmlADea_gKr58AwB5YURMFAO3ay179YhqQZJr7IuLxMM3tWxKC939aHp0JrGUrc/s4032/IMG_0289.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9wBpskB3d9tQA_iKdmeWjzm2_rpSYUqzEbEoagZU4EG38x8jjyc7sEc1FQ6IG26EzHz-6d0FtLZxSjfHW2ebKKmkzMXtdnpSUiTacwif93RF6yC6wq2cLDvAm8fJbbmlADea_gKr58AwB5YURMFAO3ay179YhqQZJr7IuLxMM3tWxKC939aHp0JrGUrc/w480-h640/IMG_0289.jpg" width="480" /></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">That problem.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">In the end, I got my data. I disassembled the problem darts, reglued them with Plumber's Goop (Amazing Goop, whatever Goop, all the same stuff, all a great dart adhesive and similar to what the first rate vendors use), let cure, and <b>what do you know, they shoot lasers.</b> Velocity was back up to nominal (hanging just under 190fps on an old 9.5 gun), the velocity spread was somewhere around +/-3 fps typical - might note, with reused darts too - and there was <i>zero</i> doubt in my mind about how those two 9.0 blasters were running anymore once I fed them some.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><h3 style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Conclusion</h3><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">It's not just decaps that are at stake with dodgy assembly of darts, as everyone (including me) tended to think for years. It does, or at least can with the wrong batch of darts and conditions, seriously screw with the internal ballistics of flywheel blasters whether or not any tips come off at all.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">The old wisdom from the "ACCurate" dart + Rapidstrike = squib/fail observations (where simply regluing the dart removes the problem, as if by magic) still holds. It holds even for full-caliber tips, like waffles and accutips. The tip needs to have a moment connection to the foam.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">That is what it is - A moment connection. You can tell instantly by just touching/feeling the reglued dart - bonding that region makes the <i>whole front of the dart</i> much sturdier and stiffer. Glue on just the core is not that. The compound used to make rubber tips is very elastic, and the tip is basically held on by a rubberband and can flap about loosely, for blasting purposes. Likely, the tip is tilting due to an imbalance of initial friction forces for whatever unavoidable reason, being forced through the rest of the contact zone at an angle, and then getting wedged into the control bore wall incurring severe losses - but I would need high speed video equipment to catch the failure mechanism in the act.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><h3 style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Ramifications</h3><div><br /></div><div>Well, for one thing, bulk darts that haven't been reglued are never getting fielded by me again. It's at this point that I realize that in a lot of everyday game scenarios where I choose cheap darts to burn (for not wanting to use any of my reglued, handpicked or expensive good stuff) I have likely been at least intermittently down on performance, in addition to just chopping frequently.</div><div><br /></div><div>For another, this all with realizing these to be basically unfit for purpose has exposed the fact that designing flywheel systems around not "instakilling" non-reglued bulk darts of this sort, the kind with a tiny smidge of superglue on just the core ...is a legacy idea that is very much no longer relevant to modern NIC. "Why not more crush?" Well, why not more crush? I think I'll experiment with more crush.</div><div><br /></div><div>Are bulk darts obsolete? I wouldn't say so, at all. It would be different if the same products were available with better glue, but Prime Time's two Sureshot tips are not (pending testing/data on the green tip/red foam dart, that I have coming to do just that) quite heavy enough to be a true range-maintaining replacement for waffle and accustrike. The blue tip Sureshot (1.0g) is definitely just not heavy enough and too droppy for outdoor work. Same, incidentally, with most of the sub-caliber springer tips, which are also expensive and have given me some questionable results concerning inaccuracy of reused darts, high foam wear rate on flywheel and other factors.</div></div>torukmakto4http://www.blogger.com/profile/10734470012890561585noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7793811623191911228.post-9076987525799895092022-06-08T16:20:00.001-07:002022-06-08T16:21:23.250-07:00Some motor controllers and other electronics WIPs.<p>Just a bit of what has been going on lately. First of all, the implementation of that fast decay solenoid drive topology in my usual style of blaster manager board:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGWElgRDMcu3pibWbfyBGQCdjc50NsUYWzm8vDxl8Ba5CZsuek3ecY5mScdxrzTgtXE3oWa1UnPU75fTO1fiQ7vTtH0cwjG1zxqTrOJu4aAuWF8QmWdg_ZSn1XasGzaO-HUoF2xiE3D-bzHkG0B5Un1BXrH0ysssuxvb7oV3IR_HZoO1ydjAARKWt2/s1253/e-core_3d_final.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="776" data-original-width="1253" height="396" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGWElgRDMcu3pibWbfyBGQCdjc50NsUYWzm8vDxl8Ba5CZsuek3ecY5mScdxrzTgtXE3oWa1UnPU75fTO1fiQ7vTtH0cwjG1zxqTrOJu4aAuWF8QmWdg_ZSn1XasGzaO-HUoF2xiE3D-bzHkG0B5Un1BXrH0ysssuxvb7oV3IR_HZoO1ydjAARKWt2/w640-h396/e-core_3d_final.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p><br />These are being called E-Core. They have pretty much the same featureset and I/O as S-Core, with the addition of bus voltage sensing vis the ADC and 2 extra (PCINT) tach channels for a total of 4, something that will be standard going forward to provide the best 2 stage cage support with speed monitoring on all wheels.<br /></p><p>The powerstage is driven by a LM5109 (or any other basic IR2101 compatible driver). Obviously as from the post on the topology this is not a halfbridge, both switches need to be on at once, and a driver with shoot-through protection won't work. There is an AP3012 boost converter fed from the 5V rail for the gate drive rail in the usual arrangement I use (overkill, I know).</p><p>Now for something different (non-blaster):</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4RoCqkQBIhJC9ybSJ9G7VCrJILxLp2PUwxw7PCQJkkUhqbDprg8LGL1TJOa9mZBZkpjIdfUU0HOWCndWRGKb8dScTCC6512XpY22ERn2b1xnAXZ2AW5MQ1MMqlGHxqsyKjeXY4NyfFMHQ1JcV1AsLiIiArHTlwlz8KAhqRkcHAo5sacB-ZxWewKsT/s813/ace_super88_final_3d.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="813" data-original-width="793" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4RoCqkQBIhJC9ybSJ9G7VCrJILxLp2PUwxw7PCQJkkUhqbDprg8LGL1TJOa9mZBZkpjIdfUU0HOWCndWRGKb8dScTCC6512XpY22ERn2b1xnAXZ2AW5MQ1MMqlGHxqsyKjeXY4NyfFMHQ1JcV1AsLiIiArHTlwlz8KAhqRkcHAo5sacB-ZxWewKsT/w624-h640/ace_super88_final_3d.jpg" width="624" /></a></div><br /><p>This is a SimonK controller using singly parallel LFPAK88 FETs in the "sandwich" layout, with generous copper area (to say the least). Board dimensions are 72x100mm.</p><p>This is aiming to run a 190kv 6374 motor on a scooter on 6-7S using Nexperia PSMNR55-40SSH (go look that device up, it's insane, by the way; half a milliohm typical at only ~190nC of gate charge). Drivers are Infineon 2EDL23 series. MP2459 (55V rated) for the logic power and again an AP3012 off that for gate drive at ~14V. Since this is going on a vehicle, the power supply overkill with the input sag eliminator and "buck then boost" approach to derive the gate drive rail for maximum voltage headroom are probably justified.<br /></p><p>It's experimental I might add, but I'm pretty sure I will have pulled this application off with only six devices; the thermal numbers work out okay-ish even for unipolar PWM (with diode conduction) and some sustained partial throttle that may be seen in use. The low side device that may have diode conduction in the usual arrangement is actually positioned with the drain tab more directly over the double-sided phase node pour where all the vias are, and that will be further heatsunk by a 10AWG phase wire, so... Oh, and I've got a a pair of very heavy solid copper heatsinks made for NVMe drives (surprisingly cheap!) that are planned to be clamped directly onto the top of each rail of FETs with thermal compound. They are not best heatsunk that way but the case is pretty thin compared to usual, and it does help.</p><p>And here's another board along the same lines. This one's a bit smaller, designed specifically as a "high" voltage platform for 80-150V class FETs and takes D2PAK-7 devices and 12.5mm caps.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzdLRn28UA5JTLxfnhzzOsiAjmn3MpAsk0eztqS6Kapx5WxFQ6ZHH6Mrhgw_obTspMyOx6NXPJcqciETgRnu-Xex8faeBGdchg_S0WO-k7coylaoGIZHm4NXJvy7KK72Y5anC7NXevO3QDXCVC1cT6oCLvESWYMMom8uhkIMSBzs86peVTlmpgTxzQ/s635/Ace_D2_renderfront.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="635" data-original-width="403" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzdLRn28UA5JTLxfnhzzOsiAjmn3MpAsk0eztqS6Kapx5WxFQ6ZHH6Mrhgw_obTspMyOx6NXPJcqciETgRnu-Xex8faeBGdchg_S0WO-k7coylaoGIZHm4NXJvy7KK72Y5anC7NXevO3QDXCVC1cT6oCLvESWYMMom8uhkIMSBzs86peVTlmpgTxzQ/w406-h640/Ace_D2_renderfront.jpg" width="406" /></a></div><p></p><p>Pretty similar idea; no worrying about the size of the board here, priorities are on robustness/good cooling for SMD FETs as this one is meant mainly to run a brushless string trimmer I found in the trash with a good motor, no battery and a questionable inverter, and other similar sorts of projects involving ~12S. High voltage power tool fixes/conversions, etc. Driver is a FAN7888 as I have a handful of them from a long time ago I never used for blasterscale projects. LTC3638 (140V buck) and a LDO for gate drive and logic power.</p><p> </p><p>Back onto blaster stuff, I have been wanting to dump the "ESC" form factor/paradigm since forever, so this is what the ACE-NX is evolving into:<br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIpkj2-7GP7-Tl4INFYHFinbJFD2XOsBMsfHwKKmwudooQ1Tud7Hcq2NTp3od2sjYGoKkj2mJPiPitOqI-Smvlpwiucn8kMiuoQQKvuZr7Zs3i29lyXnIbCokOMMlJTAkSR7dTV6d9PeKOQmFwHlSOYJZ7BKwHIBkbl3N6087XTfy-8xmD2yznAPVs/s970/ACENX56m_front.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="320" data-original-width="970" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIpkj2-7GP7-Tl4INFYHFinbJFD2XOsBMsfHwKKmwudooQ1Tud7Hcq2NTp3od2sjYGoKkj2mJPiPitOqI-Smvlpwiucn8kMiuoQQKvuZr7Zs3i29lyXnIbCokOMMlJTAkSR7dTV6d9PeKOQmFwHlSOYJZ7BKwHIBkbl3N6087XTfy-8xmD2yznAPVs/w640-h212/ACENX56m_front.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>This for reference is only 22mm wide (quite a bit narrower than the NX Inline aka the traditional ESC styled version you might know that the T19 uses and so forth) and about 76 long, so a nice long skinny form factor, just the ticket to either conceal these in apt places within predominantly long, skinny blasters, or to have a nice neat farm of them somewhere when you have a multistage or otherwise a bunch of motors that need driving.</p><p>It uses LFPAK56 FETs, the same Infineon 6EDL04 driver in TSSOP28 from the original NX, and due to area/complexity reasons, the same LDO logic power/AP3012 gate drive supply arrangement. DC link caps are 4 10mm units which offers a sound improvement in everything (thermals, ESR, etc.) over one giant capacitor and allows building these with a low total height using i.e. 220 or 330uF parts from Rubycon and others. In addition there are 3 1206 MLCCs. Having a few good snappy ceramics in there is something I am doing in all these new designs.</p><p>Oh, by the way, no, the cap footprints do not overlap the FETs in this or any other boards here. Those FET footprints are expanded by a LOT because it makes them easier to solder.<br /></p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLmeAXj6bfZfO4fhnMPDGtoLo3YQLLyqXuJikkxYMzoz-00dAwmt2Hy5h1DYtRL5RPQZ11ZJyScNg_Hlr7Uo3P98iuxn-V6kBXQ1lb7o6PzwFWtUfrA0ncT3mMvX0WjemogXTBTf-V6nH1SQrDF9nhb4VxyooiBdhu-KcITBjsHb1bY-4uGI0ZeScB/s953/ACENX56m_back.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="312" data-original-width="953" height="210" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLmeAXj6bfZfO4fhnMPDGtoLo3YQLLyqXuJikkxYMzoz-00dAwmt2Hy5h1DYtRL5RPQZ11ZJyScNg_Hlr7Uo3P98iuxn-V6kBXQ1lb7o6PzwFWtUfrA0ncT3mMvX0WjemogXTBTf-V6nH1SQrDF9nhb4VxyooiBdhu-KcITBjsHb1bY-4uGI0ZeScB/w640-h210/ACENX56m_back.jpg" width="640" /></a></p><p>In addition to being a much more electrically optimal layout for the DC bus and so forth these should be thermally quite a bit better than the inline boards. Not that the inline boards have had issues. The bottleneck is probably (as in the inline boards) the phase nodes which have the drain of one of the FETs on them, but then again see the remark about phase wires. Phase wires are not appreciated often as heatsinks but if you work with this stuff or ever see a running controller thermally imaged you quickly realize that as long as they are oversized for ampacity they are a heatsink, not a source, and help get FET heat out of the thing. Hence a move to oversizing the phase pigtails on boards, such as 16AWG.</p><p>Not shown (forgot image): a LFPAK88 "Max" version of the same board (i.e. ACE-NX.88m) - which is 34x80mm and has the extra stuff like switchmode logic power, the input filter and so forth and accepts 5 caps. I don't know WHAT would ever reasonably be done in a blaster that this one won't be able to run... And also not shown, the ATmega328-based throttle interface board for the scooter project and the trimmer project and anything similar where you want Hall effect/potentiometer input to PWM throttle, battery low voltage cutoff, battery gauge LEDs, any datalogging or control loops you care for, etc. which is mostly just a MCU and a bunch of passives so little to write home about.<br /></p><p>And this is in the ACE-NX Max when I was working things out. Now that's the best you can hope for, for nearly all of a MCU/gate driver lane (what happens when you created the board definition specifically for that driver, lol). Internal pulldowns in the driver.<br /></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-YGEJ196IEQyRbQRYEoJ82-44mg6uXk8AFGbkTxcPEIHE1xwb7803d3ngnCki-DqJO6P-DtkJSQbxN_qRh8vqilJmnLj2mqQKIchv2DVqzGixZe0kUtIaBmdl4_XKNIeOl7qqMbDJ0G1ON9qhN93C7NZ99-H99DclZVn6AwfiplJmNdxG8M7fy5Gv/s1183/Ace_gate_driver_layout.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="972" data-original-width="1183" height="263" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-YGEJ196IEQyRbQRYEoJ82-44mg6uXk8AFGbkTxcPEIHE1xwb7803d3ngnCki-DqJO6P-DtkJSQbxN_qRh8vqilJmnLj2mqQKIchv2DVqzGixZe0kUtIaBmdl4_XKNIeOl7qqMbDJ0G1ON9qhN93C7NZ99-H99DclZVn6AwfiplJmNdxG8M7fy5Gv/s320/Ace_gate_driver_layout.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><p>Actually that's maybe noteworthy. I have really liked Infineon drivers so far. Internal pulldowns on logic inputs, internal pulldown on gates when the chip is not powered (see 2EDL23 series datasheet), internal bootstrap diodes with built-in ballasting resistance. That's quite a few annoying passives and bits deleted from a board. And robust input filtering, with short pulse rejection (read up on that issue with traditional HVIC gate drivers if you design this stuff and want to lose a bit of sleep).<br /></p>torukmakto4http://www.blogger.com/profile/10734470012890561585noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7793811623191911228.post-49451977351397820142021-11-10T14:51:00.000-08:002021-11-10T14:51:35.059-08:00Solenoid power stage topology followup - Preliminary decay mode investigation.<p>This is the "partial fullbridge" topology (2 mosfets and 2 diodes) from the previous post roughly prototyped.<br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mTrLOvMq7cs/YYw80mMA65I/AAAAAAAAFDw/oVemSUyWYAgl9ExRVIhMxnuTMLxmIEnGACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0592.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mTrLOvMq7cs/YYw80mMA65I/AAAAAAAAFDw/oVemSUyWYAgl9ExRVIhMxnuTMLxmIEnGACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_0592.JPG" width="320" /></a></div> <p></p><p>And the overall setup. The test solenoid is a Takaha CH12840062. This in stock form is a total slug and definitely not the greatest choice of blaster bolt drive noid, incidentally.<br /></p><p>I just used random crap I had around - some IRLR7843s for the switching devices, 1N5819 diodes,
and for the highside drive I used a discrete bootstrap driver as in
traditional ESCs. A tiny bit of code on a mega328 to drive the power
stage, take a switch input and spit out a drive waveform (in this case generic 50ms on/50ms off).<br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Np07HgERIUc/YYw82y3ZJCI/AAAAAAAAFD0/PPJsy4X4j5ELOYMBXT0erzWN7hY_zKMBQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0591.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Np07HgERIUc/YYw82y3ZJCI/AAAAAAAAFD0/PPJsy4X4j5ELOYMBXT0erzWN7hY_zKMBQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_0591.JPG" width="320" /></a></div> <p></p><p>Anyway, so this is what the voltage across the winding is doing with the regenerative fast decay case:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xV8bLGW5AbY/YYxAE1oyLjI/AAAAAAAAFD8/aoS6PJPH5is0CRuXjKF7DIlRXwewHR_tACLcBGAsYHQ/s800/SDS00001.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="800" height="384" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xV8bLGW5AbY/YYxAE1oyLjI/AAAAAAAAFD8/aoS6PJPH5is0CRuXjKF7DIlRXwewHR_tACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h384/SDS00001.png" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>(10ms/div, 5V/div)</p><p>Exactly what we expected - it flies up to the DC bus level (mostly charged 4 cell pack) for the 50ms on-time, then flies down and is caught to negative (DC bus + 2 schottky diode drops).</p><p>Note that the total current decay time is not really the 30.4ms I had the cursors on. That is the duration of the negative voltage transient on the winding - but current is only really flowing when the voltage is below negative DC bus i.e. during the flattish, ~10ms long period right after switch-off. The exponential rampy part at the end happens after the diodes have mostly stopped conducting entirely and the voltage decays back down (up) through parasitics. The small but existent step up at ~30ms after switch-off is an artifact of the power stage switching to slow decay mode by the low-side fet being turned on at 30ms after switch-off (random value I picked). With a bootstrap high side driver in this arrangement the low side must be on at some point whenever otherwise unimportant (like this) during the off-time to present a path for the high side bootstrap capacitance to charge.</p><p>Now what happens if we run that again, but in SLOW decay mode - exactly equivalent to the typical circuit with a flyback diode across the winding? (20ms/div this time as I had to back off to see all of the decay time!)<br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YDc1kkLq6HA/YYxEiMqsFSI/AAAAAAAAFEI/LGb1MIWq_3ogdBMcpWTiuNEiV4nnAIsKQCLcBGAsYHQ/s800/SDS00003.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="800" height="384" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YDc1kkLq6HA/YYxEiMqsFSI/AAAAAAAAFEI/LGb1MIWq_3ogdBMcpWTiuNEiV4nnAIsKQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h384/SDS00003.png" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p><br />Here I did that by keeping the low side fet permanently on, so we're
doing high-side switching and the flyback diode is the one coming from
ground up to the switch node. I of course did that because the high side driver is bootstrap and we can't keep the high side on as the cap will slowly discharge through parasitics.</p><p>What we're expecting here is DC bus level for the on-time and then one diode drop below ground (small, because this is a schottky) whilever winding current is still flowing through the flyback diode. And that's exactly what we get.</p><p>Note how long that negative period lasts! Here's that a bit closer (500mV/div):<br /></p><p></p><p></p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8M_UR9kaHtY/YYxEiLmIWNI/AAAAAAAAFEE/Bc0G0vQje0EueORKvOv5jSamM9Sg46PJACLcBGAsYHQ/s800/SDS00004.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="800" height="384" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8M_UR9kaHtY/YYxEiLmIWNI/AAAAAAAAFEE/Bc0G0vQje0EueORKvOv5jSamM9Sg46PJACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h384/SDS00004.png" width="640" /></a></div> <p></p><p>That weird low frequency ringing in the setup that went down to -2V on the switch node wants our attention, but here the ~120ms of actual decay time is the shocking matter...</p><p><b>And yes, the solenoid immediately felt PROFOUNDLY more sluggish to release during these shots.</b></p><p>Now what happens far as trying to cycle quickly?</p><p>I have had this noid cycling (unloaded) very reliably at 10Hz with the 50/50ms timing using the regenerative fast decay setup:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dyK9rrfVTDd0KpHhEYZ4cVTaln8EAogWkRVozKx3jbxqZrVSOAAUwsMcMDm7hfvjQwvnfmwImzYg8CHkr6ESQ' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br /><p>No problem. Now, this is the same noid, the same timing parameters, the same otherwise hardware, the same battery powering the setup at the same voltage (immediately swapped between modes)... the only variable here is the decay mode which is now slow (aka, standard flyback diode configuration).</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dycsISzYKeWLiX6BYfTk00mgRr9O9VMlZ7vD9re2aQIIIhakne8z2ejdFEn0Yrft3djSGGwwTM3YRW-FHsm7g' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><p>Okay; so I would say there might indeed be an issue here!</p><p>Now, this noid is a 6.2 ohm coil that is probably more turns and more inductance than typical sub-3 ohm blaster bolt solenoids and is also a bit lacking on return spring hence is making a more dramatic example of this than usual, but clearly something major is afoot here with this decay mode thing and the notion that a simple flyback diode is a hindrance to fast-cycling solenoid actuators. This will be very interesting to apply this topology to more known-quantities like the FTW Hyperdrive and quantify the timing margins gained over the flyback diode approach.<br /></p>torukmakto4http://www.blogger.com/profile/10734470012890561585noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7793811623191911228.post-63960845284404937412021-11-07T01:36:00.000-08:002021-11-07T01:36:02.583-08:00Thoughts on solenoid power stage topologies<p> ...Specifically, in the context of bolt actuators.</p><p>In the nerf hobby up to this point, we have generally had exactly one answer to this question - the classic single-ended arrangement with an antiparallel diode (same as when you want to switch a DC motor on and off, or do one-quadrant variable speed drive of one). "<i>Don't forget the flyback diode!</i>" Here's the sort of thing I'm talking about:</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RzajVRDnVgA/YYcEIy9YP3I/AAAAAAAAFDI/NJfOO_3nSjExwrnW_GiJtZm51408EsYRwCLcBGAsYHQ/s353/Noid_Drive_Topo1.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="313" data-original-width="353" height="284" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RzajVRDnVgA/YYcEIy9YP3I/AAAAAAAAFDI/NJfOO_3nSjExwrnW_GiJtZm51408EsYRwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Noid_Drive_Topo1.png" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>Where signal, rail and output names are obvious. It's usually low-side switching like this, because we like N-channel power devices, and we like relatively low level, ground-referenced gate drive voltages.</p><p>Or sometimes, as in Narfduino boards and other multipurpose power stages, it's a halfbridge. Same difference - the antiparallel diode in the above is just taking the place of the missing high-side device, whose copackaged diode would otherwise be serving this purpose (providing a path for the winding current to continue flowing at switch-off). We could also be doing synchronous rectification with a halfbridge, also fundamentally the same thing minus the diode loss.</p><h3 style="text-align: left;">--Is this a new concern? --But isn't driving solenoids just like driving DC motors? (Etc.)<br /></h3><p>In short no. With motors - even DC ones - the winding itself is not a DC device, it subject to an alternating current at some fundamental (commutation) frequency, and so <i>by design</i> for a motor that is going to turn at some given speed and thus have each winding current ramping up and down at some dozens to thousands of Hz <i>anyway</i>, there cannot then be any significant concern with current decay time at switch-off having any major influence on how the system responds.</p><p>By contrast - many solenoids are comparatively large inductances for which ramping the current in the coil up and down might be significant compared to the cycle time. The current slew rate of a solenoid is directly the <i>force</i> slew rate, and in many applications the time required for current to ramp down in a coil simply shorted by a forward-biased diode or synchronous rectifying switch adds <i>electromagnetic</i> inertia associated with the stored energy in the inductance to the system's mechanical inertia, and slows down, for instance, the opening of relay contacts, the closing of an injector or valve, or so forth - and in <i>those</i> cases, limits the system's frequency response significantly (and for relays, accelerates contact wear due to arcing during the slowed opening). For a blaster bolt actuator, this is an open question whether it really matters "that much", which comes down to whether the comparatively massive solenoid plungers involved might be a dominant constraint. But of course it is <i>highly</i> desired to end forward force as abruptly as possible, so as to get the bolt back open to pick up the next round as quickly as possible (hence the focus on return springs and their selection). So, slow decay on a noid might be questioned regardless as a low hanging fruit.</p><h3 style="text-align: left;">The most likely candidates<br /></h3><p>Tons of power stage topologies have been created as dedicated coil drivers. Some of them are downright elaborate (mainly to provide both fast decay for switch-off and slow decay while doing PWM control for continuous conduction and low losses), but two stand out to look at here which are appropriate and not over the top of what would fit or be afforded in a blaster.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1crym60zkKk/YYclUl8-v9I/AAAAAAAAFDU/q3YLgP1vvu8PdmWcbfscwUkVqzLpCeqOgCLcBGAsYHQ/s346/Noid_Drive_Topo2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="326" data-original-width="346" height="302" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1crym60zkKk/YYclUl8-v9I/AAAAAAAAFDU/q3YLgP1vvu8PdmWcbfscwUkVqzLpCeqOgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Noid_Drive_Topo2.png" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><p>This is a common one.</p><p>The basic idea is to insert a bias voltage in the flyback path so that the inductor has a load to push against to absorb the energy quicker than just the coil resistance and assorted other parasitics. A TVS diode is often used for that purpose as it is designed to absorb abusive power pulses and have a predictable clamping voltage available in various increments. A MOV has been put in there similarly. Even a string of regular diodes in series to build up a voltage drop could be used, as could a resistor as long as the voltage at the output node under peak flyback current is considered, though that wouldn't be optimally effective.<br /></p><p>With both the regular rectifier diode and the TVS, the latter can obviously be unidirectional rather than the bidirectional shown. Also, having both means the TVS breakdown voltage does not need to be higher than the supply.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-f_W1RbFojnU/YYclT4bwL3I/AAAAAAAAFDQ/hzo9Yf3JRWAs8OFbygC33rDNc60NGyrqACLcBGAsYHQ/s334/Noid_Drive_Topo3.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="324" data-original-width="334" height="310" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-f_W1RbFojnU/YYclT4bwL3I/AAAAAAAAFDQ/hzo9Yf3JRWAs8OFbygC33rDNc60NGyrqACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Noid_Drive_Topo3.png" width="320" /></a></div><p>This would be simplified version for when the TVS breakdown voltage is always higher than the supply.</p><p><br />Now, this idea comes with a downside that is a non-problem for everyday relay drivers but might be a major design problem for blaster bolt actuation. Blaster bolt drive solenoids are downright monsters as they go. They might be running peak currents of 20 amps in some setups. Accordingly they are going to not only have that much flyback current to be clamped (and now clamped by a device which has to <i>take that with a large voltage across it</i>), but the inductive energy to be disposed of on each cycle will be large - and when a dissipative device is used in the flyback path to speed up the decay, <i>that device</i> now relocates to itself some power dissipation that would be mostly in the (thermally massive) winding with the usual antiparallel diode circuit. This is perhaps not desirable in a compact bit of blaster management kit.</p><p>So here's another strategy seen on occasion: <br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iKvSJ4kWwa0/YYcqRjYAA5I/AAAAAAAAFDg/a-JEq-UK6Dk8UZXNneEA8EihkNEMCGInACLcBGAsYHQ/s463/Noid_Drive_Topo4.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="376" data-original-width="463" height="325" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iKvSJ4kWwa0/YYcqRjYAA5I/AAAAAAAAFDg/a-JEq-UK6Dk8UZXNneEA8EihkNEMCGInACLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h325/Noid_Drive_Topo4.png" width="400" /></a></div><p>This might look like a funny halfbridge with some extra diodes at first, but it's not. Let's rearrange it a bit:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QY2OCcz_fXk/YYcqi1wsCqI/AAAAAAAAFDo/MGBZOfUdBG0EcT79fBA9qu33QWlwRtY0gCLcBGAsYHQ/s683/Noid_Drive_Topo4Rearranged.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="344" data-original-width="683" height="322" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QY2OCcz_fXk/YYcqi1wsCqI/AAAAAAAAFDo/MGBZOfUdBG0EcT79fBA9qu33QWlwRtY0gCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h322/Noid_Drive_Topo4Rearranged.png" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>...And now it's apparent what's going on - this is analogous to a <i>fullbridge </i>in the same way that the traditional single-ender with flyback diode is analogous to a halfbridge in that active devices which are not needed in forward mode are replaced with their vestigial diodes.</p><p>The advantages might be clear just seeing it (or not) - one, the inductance now sees the DC bus as a bias voltage to push current into when decaying, so the current can ramp down a lot faster. Two, since that current burst is pumped into the DC bus on each switch-off and no intentional dissipative element is used, some of the energy is recovered and the overall losses reduced rather than simply moved around.<br /></p><p>Disadvantages are that we just multiplied output devices and diodes by 2 and required a high-side gate driver - but that might be a tolerable overhead. Also, compared to some of the exotic ideas involving high auxiliary voltage rails, DC-DC converters, storage caps, etc. and the TVS-based ones, the voltage is limited to DC bus, so the slew rate performance couldn't be as high in theory, but in practice I doubt we would be seeing noid drivers designed with 100V fets and ~40V flyback clamping anyway, instead closer to the 14-20V DC bus in a light blaster configuration, so it seems promising.</p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Methods I didn't address <br /></h3><p>Active clamping, because modern mosfets should not be operated in the linear region. This is mostly confined to specialized monolithic devices meant to drive coil loads about an order of magnitude less in required current than a blaster feeding noid.</p><p>Avalanche breakdown of mosfets as an intended way to dump the energy, because I don't care if Nexperia says it's OK, considering <i>intentionally</i> doing that makes me ill. And because there is probably too much stored energy for most fets thus rated anyway.<br /></p><p>Alternative arrangements of the TVS version that don't really achieve anything other than expanding loops (etc.) such as having the load hung off the bus and the TVS from the low-side switch drain to ground.</p><p>Anything to do with PWMing or current controlling a noid. That stuff is tangential (though has specific requirements of power stage design) but mostly is just irrelevant to a blaster because the entire purpose of doing so is to account for the fact that a fully traveled noid produces the maximum force and a load requires less force to hold than accelerate. In a blaster there is no reason for the bolt to hold forward at all, thus for current to continue at all <i>after</i> the solenoid has fully traveled. Closed-loop control of a noid on that end amounts to "hitting the end of travel shuts off the driver immediately" no matter the implementation.</p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Anyway<br /></h3><p>Off to buy some solenoids and test some stuff. I finally have a scope of my own so next time I post about this I'll have scope shots of how bad the decay issue really is or isn't with this specific sort of noid.</p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Note</h3><p>Don't read anything into the fet or diode part numbers. That's just a LFPAK mosfet and a SMA schottky that were close by in EDA. That fet is probably more than fine as long as 30V is sufficient blocking voltage for the bus (about half that is 4S), that's a 1.4mohm device from my older inverters for 22xx series flywheel motors. The diode being rated for only 3A average rectified (though adequate pulse rating) might indeed need to be something bigger depending on what the actual inductance of the 35mm and Hyperdrive are.<br /></p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Further reading</h3><p>https://e2e.ti.com/blogs_/b/industrial_strength/posts/tips-for-solenoid-driving</p><p>https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/solenoid-driver-design/</p><p>https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/438644/solenoid-fastest-possible-release-for-how-long-should-reversed-polarity-be-app/438657</p><p>https://www.nexperia.com/applications/interactive-app-notes/IAN50003_driving-automotive-solenoids.html</p><p>https://www.maximintegrated.com/en/design/technical-documents/app-notes/6/6307.html<br /></p>torukmakto4http://www.blogger.com/profile/10734470012890561585noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7793811623191911228.post-1176339230821909942021-06-19T14:57:00.002-07:002021-06-19T14:57:31.810-07:00Field Report: Mystery Machine and Orb Weaver<h1 style="text-align: left;">Hop ups</h1><p style="text-align: left;">The hop ups work well. I can adjust them in the field from no effect to curve straight into the sky. </p><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;">Accuracy seems about on par with rival blasters using rubber flap hop up. </p><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;">Considering how simple this design is, seems like a winner.</p><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><h1 style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://github.com/MatthewBregg/S-Core-DC-Drive-Rival-Mag-Grip-SMG/blob/master/Documentation/build_guide.org">Mystery Machine</a></h1><p style="text-align: left;">This performed admirably for most of the day.... until the end when it mysteriously stopped working. What happened? </p><p style="text-align: left;">Turned out the nub detention mechanism broke.</p><p style="text-align: left;"><img alt="./documentation_images/physical_build/used_images/old_broken_catch.jpg" height="400" src="https://github.com/MatthewBregg/S-Core-DC-Drive-Rival-Mag-Grip-SMG/raw/master/Documentation/documentation_images/physical_build/used_images/old_broken_catch.jpg" style="max-width: 100%;" width="300" /> </p><p style="text-align: left;">This is after cleaning up the snapped off plastic and co.</p><p style="text-align: left;">Turned I designed it, I did the nub retention platform first, followed by the rival round feed path. I stupidly didn't notice the feed path cut into the nub retention platform, leaving just 1-2 mm of PETG to withstand the impact of repeatedly slamming a mag in. </p><p style="text-align: left;">Oh well.</p><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;">Time for version 1.1.</p><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;">A M3 screw actually works REALLY well as a catch for the nub. Better than the original plastic design even. </p><p style="text-align: left;"><img alt="./documentation_images/physical_build/used_images/new_catch.jpg" height="400" src="https://github.com/MatthewBregg/S-Core-DC-Drive-Rival-Mag-Grip-SMG/raw/master/Documentation/documentation_images/physical_build/used_images/new_catch.jpg" style="max-width: 100%;" width="300" /> </p><p style="text-align: left;">Hard to imagine that breaking from any number of magazine inserts. </p><p style="text-align: left;"> </p><p style="text-align: left;"> V1.1 also changes the magazine catch to work with worker 15 round mags.</p><p style="text-align: left;"> </p><h1 style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://github.com/MatthewBregg/OpenHopper/blob/main/STL/BUILD_GUIDE/guide.org">Orb Weaver </a></h1><h1 style="text-align: left;"> </h1><p style="text-align: left;">I used this for the UF HvZ game, and several NOMAD PvP games.</p><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;">Overall, it's performed admirably, with just a handful of nits.</p><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>During a PVP game with targets in trees, I aimed at some odd 40-60* angle up, and unsurprisingly, quickly stopped feeding. </li><li>During a run in HvZ, the lid got bumped hard enough to spill the balls. Maybe two magnets are needed? Then again, was a pretty hard run. </li><li>There's been a handful of firing twice incidents.</li><li>It is heavy at 6 ib. A significantly less dense (and of course, weaker) print could be worth a shot. </li><li>Optic mounting is awkward, but I knew that going in. <br /></li></ul><p>And that's about it.</p><p> </p><p>I'm pretty happy with it, and plan on continuing to run it at HvZ events. </p><p><br /></p><p>Surprisingly didn't wind up with very many pictures of this game, if any one has some please do let me know!<br /></p><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;"> </p><p style="text-align: left;"> <br /></p><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p>Matthew Bregghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10906881502009666408noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7793811623191911228.post-84900837220263728172021-03-09T11:49:00.002-08:002021-03-09T11:56:36.424-08:00T19 Heavy - 20x95mm MEGA; Mega-Con flywheel system<p></p><p>Ever since the modern (20mm) MEGA caliber and the Centurion was a thing, I have been wanting to build something reliable and magfed to run them full auto. This has only intensified with the advent of special rules for MEGA hits such as defeating shields/armor, killing special zombies, causing double damage, and counting as more points for DTC-like gametypes.</p><p>I never ended up doing what I should have back in the dark ages (jam a Zeus cage and a RS pusher box into a hacked up Centurion receiver), so the intent to eventually do a 20mm project followed me all the way to the T19 era, and now I finally got a round tuit to spare and did it.</p><p>Hence: <br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="300" data-original-width="585" height="205" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k4mpgj50KlA/YEfCs0Pe6QI/AAAAAAAAE7M/BbFjleMfrNMrl-RvNlphunhuc4PF06nsACLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h205/megacon67mm.jpg" width="400" /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Of course, this starts with a flywheel system. As a starting point for the profile geometry, I loosely scaled up the .50 cal Hy-Con including the 0.56-ish centerline area ratio, yielding 22mm control bore, 22mm rim width, and 15mm gap. I then designed a 67mm centerdistance (jumbo format is probably the best descriptor) system around that, yielding what is more literally a scaled-up Hy-Con than not.<br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ftqiFhEoJz0/YEfCs9b6ORI/AAAAAAAAE7Q/Hn8NUxPRX4ciPIQgs9YB0sSoESWwMhrrgCLcBGAsYHQ/s847/mega-con-nocovermockup.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="847" height="284" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ftqiFhEoJz0/YEfCs9b6ORI/AAAAAAAAE7Q/Hn8NUxPRX4ciPIQgs9YB0sSoESWwMhrrgCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h284/mega-con-nocovermockup.jpg" width="400" /></a></div></div><p></p><p>For motors at dev stage, I used Racerstar BR2207S, as I had some 1600kv ones on hand already.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nhygmw45pVs/YEfFguPGO6I/AAAAAAAAE7c/6RRc3aY7mXcH7pDEBnZeKXVirDbCymRhgCLcBGAsYHQ/s886/megaconmockup.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="592" data-original-width="886" height="428" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nhygmw45pVs/YEfFguPGO6I/AAAAAAAAE7c/6RRc3aY7mXcH7pDEBnZeKXVirDbCymRhgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h428/megaconmockup.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-umdIIFqKL2g/YEfLkr-f32I/AAAAAAAAE9o/VjTIDvS5XqgYBLd3kXK5q-_oXEGiDM2hACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0407.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-umdIIFqKL2g/YEfLkr-f32I/AAAAAAAAE9o/VjTIDvS5XqgYBLd3kXK5q-_oXEGiDM2hACLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h300/IMG_0407.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PndCoKZtLuw/YEfLml7Ps6I/AAAAAAAAE9w/2SICI1_RFikyxnZYgg8iF9W9ycjiHd5wgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0410.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PndCoKZtLuw/YEfLml7Ps6I/AAAAAAAAE9w/2SICI1_RFikyxnZYgg8iF9W9ycjiHd5wgCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h300/IMG_0410.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-faCYI351HRU/YEfLk5QznAI/AAAAAAAAE9s/oFji2jmmMzcDSQ4jSHnCdsaVyHIbdz4oQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0412.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-faCYI351HRU/YEfLk5QznAI/AAAAAAAAE9s/oFji2jmmMzcDSQ4jSHnCdsaVyHIbdz4oQCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h300/IMG_0412.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ICongOQ2J3k/YEfLp1D0yEI/AAAAAAAAE90/9y5cTOpRvhkkU3UdVFODT_g9j0ZlKvZoACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0413.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ICongOQ2J3k/YEfLp1D0yEI/AAAAAAAAE90/9y5cTOpRvhkkU3UdVFODT_g9j0ZlKvZoACLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h300/IMG_0413.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rodmuSGJyJQ/YEfLqMSWvQI/AAAAAAAAE98/ZSlCTKgxbJkUPqt9ZnkmkSeccluhmLkZwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0414.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rodmuSGJyJQ/YEfLqMSWvQI/AAAAAAAAE98/ZSlCTKgxbJkUPqt9ZnkmkSeccluhmLkZwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_0414.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IBSUSu3lO0U/YEfLq1qqZHI/AAAAAAAAE-E/SGo64zMiXTgMzjDDdXKeJyrpoz8gPsdfACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0418.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IBSUSu3lO0U/YEfLq1qqZHI/AAAAAAAAE-E/SGo64zMiXTgMzjDDdXKeJyrpoz8gPsdfACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_0418.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hFy8xfTUQ4c/YEfLrEBtVEI/AAAAAAAAE-I/2nd--LKOkT0oByYs8fVLVA1R0Irnbq-fwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0419.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hFy8xfTUQ4c/YEfLrEBtVEI/AAAAAAAAE-I/2nd--LKOkT0oByYs8fVLVA1R0Irnbq-fwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_0419.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-n8PEA51wJnk/YEfLrSaLmYI/AAAAAAAAE-M/J-ggO9LsE1wa1dqZuAkcuAfxDJpXAkIcgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0420.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-n8PEA51wJnk/YEfLrSaLmYI/AAAAAAAAE-M/J-ggO9LsE1wa1dqZuAkcuAfxDJpXAkIcgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_0420.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FQFnNGB5iqs/YEfLrqa2d-I/AAAAAAAAE-Q/uGglipWeShk9XulPHx1d6vREAoHbivqwACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0421.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FQFnNGB5iqs/YEfLrqa2d-I/AAAAAAAAE-Q/uGglipWeShk9XulPHx1d6vREAoHbivqwACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_0421.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This might drive home the scale of this system. .50 cal Gamma cage looks downright small next to it.<br /></div><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dkMcbBnBHrY/YEfLsH_1ApI/AAAAAAAAE-U/LjDXKKgHIjs-v36yxTNk8aBMuWQQ8tm8gCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0422.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dkMcbBnBHrY/YEfLsH_1ApI/AAAAAAAAE-U/LjDXKKgHIjs-v36yxTNk8aBMuWQQ8tm8gCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/IMG_0422.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lo8DQfjwoMg/YEfLsufZ0sI/AAAAAAAAE-Y/SgSP_x1FAyo7MhdUY0p9qd5G1nz5HLP0gCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0424.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lo8DQfjwoMg/YEfLsufZ0sI/AAAAAAAAE-Y/SgSP_x1FAyo7MhdUY0p9qd5G1nz5HLP0gCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h300/IMG_0424.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>Now this needs a breech. I opted for the existing mag standard. It's easy to get caught up in <i>This mag design has X mm of wasted length!</i> and similar griping, and that's how we get crappy, incompatible mags. Some careful design was required to use these mags, including the rear feed ramp to deal with top round positioning issues and the 0 mm cage flange thickness in front of the mag to keep required bolt stroke to a minimum.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lP03S8XafJM/YEfFuPa-pmI/AAAAAAAAE7k/qhERJMQBVMwgrSdp9CEYStU9tQY-2INMQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1036/t19megamockfeb25.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="479" data-original-width="1036" height="296" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lP03S8XafJM/YEfFuPa-pmI/AAAAAAAAE7k/qhERJMQBVMwgrSdp9CEYStU9tQY-2INMQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h296/t19megamockfeb25.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5xAn-g3kUL0/YEfFuGftXjI/AAAAAAAAE7g/KmhJboonhW4QbV1M9sNFw7_6AFOKWUg0QCLcBGAsYHQ/s1066/t19megacross_sect.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="366" data-original-width="1066" height="220" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5xAn-g3kUL0/YEfFuGftXjI/AAAAAAAAE7g/KmhJboonhW4QbV1M9sNFw7_6AFOKWUg0QCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h220/t19megacross_sect.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>Design elements are all the same as other modern T19 breeches. Angle cut, flared magwell, overinsertion stop on feed lips, no fence on the front for comfort, 7mm flanges, ... <br /></p><p>This then gets its own mag release, its own side cover set (below), and a stock T19 drivetrain stack with the exception of a slightly longer bolt. <br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AcZb9JvicaQ/YEfHDM6wpkI/AAAAAAAAE78/bXfH8co7FR0uz0b707g-RvUJ8oPA-GdhACLcBGAsYHQ/s806/megaconfeb26cad.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="603" data-original-width="806" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AcZb9JvicaQ/YEfHDM6wpkI/AAAAAAAAE78/bXfH8co7FR0uz0b707g-RvUJ8oPA-GdhACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h478/megaconfeb26cad.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gnyJbJ17s90/YEfHDN_twzI/AAAAAAAAE70/LPhUqqpWtPEsRo_WFdKMRQooCcXkNvI4wCLcBGAsYHQ/s886/megaconfeb26cad2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="618" data-original-width="886" height="446" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gnyJbJ17s90/YEfHDN_twzI/AAAAAAAAE70/LPhUqqpWtPEsRo_WFdKMRQooCcXkNvI4wCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h446/megaconfeb26cad2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-y9Mw7l_O4fk/YEfHDM9a3KI/AAAAAAAAE74/yrYZPFEAdvc3rAUeU4ed8oZbqa2biyFxQCLcBGAsYHQ/s913/megaconcadfeb26-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="606" data-original-width="913" height="424" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-y9Mw7l_O4fk/YEfHDM9a3KI/AAAAAAAAE74/yrYZPFEAdvc3rAUeU4ed8oZbqa2biyFxQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h424/megaconcadfeb26-3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>Add in a top rail front segment and one underbarrel gap filler/finisher/hand stop doohickey to polish it off, and we get...</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N_DPximLwSU/YEfHu3kjwJI/AAAAAAAAE8U/RgrnPbmdc3cHG8QD3WclPx8Gu3xEvdIpACLcBGAsYHQ/s1951/IMG_0471.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tmkUNZrr5Xw/YEfH0RVpNFI/AAAAAAAAE9E/EG-SOyW4VcULz77ltVwJME2PcXmRdenugCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/IMG_0500.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wViu5ufi24s/YEfH1wC87wI/AAAAAAAAE9M/Nafbra_4lqoj5UDq5WMAOFYxYEpSsLLfwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0506.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1155" data-original-width="2048" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wViu5ufi24s/YEfH1wC87wI/AAAAAAAAE9M/Nafbra_4lqoj5UDq5WMAOFYxYEpSsLLfwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h360/IMG_0506.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mw84QtrSBo0/YEfH1h_nnAI/AAAAAAAAE9I/EjFIAyO8EnoodhkDPEEjAvnbIJD0wAO4wCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0502.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mw84QtrSBo0/YEfH1h_nnAI/AAAAAAAAE9I/EjFIAyO8EnoodhkDPEEjAvnbIJD0wAO4wCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/IMG_0502.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>Filaments in this build: Yoyi translucent red PETG, CC3D bluegrey PETG, Makeshaper orange PETG, Overture white PETG.</p><p><br /></p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Results<br /></h3><p><br /></p><p>Overall excellent. I have had Hasbro mega up to mid 160s fps, and the one used Whirlwind I currently have up to 140-ish, and breakin wasn't even complete when I shot those. Also, this is really easy on ammo compared to a Zeus cage on mega --or a .50 cal T19. Reliability is so far awesome at the 12rps I have it set to max out at. It will feed and shoot just about anything and I have probably shot some of my testing darts 15 times into hard objects by now.</p><p><br />Now about the bad: The motors. I grabbed these because I had them and they would work for a ballistic proof of the cage. This could really use a larger, more modern motor, and also slightly higher kv than 1600, or else 5S or 6S. Spinups to high (which is 18-20k for this) speed are pretty crappy by modern standards, though not unuseful, with the 1600kv BR2207S and 4S. Also, Racerstar motors have quality issues and as usual the dynamic balance on this system is not great. I'll probably go for T-Motor F80 for an upgrade/option for this in the future.</p><p><br /></p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Release</h3><h3 style="text-align: left;"><br /></h3><h1 style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1jQmmx3HfgGcK6Hd1K0OTlyZtXlGlntW2?usp=sharing">Link</a></h1><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Release notes duplicated here:</span><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: courier;">###############################################<br /># T19 MEGA (20x95mm) Initial Release 03-07-21 #<br />###############################################<br /><br />Takes Hasbro-style 20mm mags. Mag tolerances are crap on commercial mags,<br />and some may need hand fitting with a file, particularly clone mags, as well<br />as release notch issues needing adjustment.<br /><br />3 mag releases have been provided: the "stock" and -1mm (lower) straight<br />versions, and the "circular surface" one which is closer to what my hand fit<br />"stock" release ended up as after adjusting to get easy lockup and minimal play<br />once locked on all my mags. I recommend trying that one first. Some hand fitting<br />may be required regardless.<br /><br />The "MegaMagDropfreeifier" part is a mod for Hasbro (style) 20mm mags which fills<br />in the second void/notch above the actual release notch, which often causes<br />trouble with snagging on the release. Print it out and glue it to *one* half of<br />the mag body (not both). File smooth and/or fill with a little devcon.<br /><br />Top rail: Uses the T19_TopRail_NewFullLengthRearSeg.stl rear rail segment used<br />by the new (Gen2) .5 full length breech. Front rail is specific and included.<br /><br />Bolt is different. All other drivetrain, stock, controls, etc. parts are the<br />same as a .5 cal T19E1.<br /><br />Firmware difference is maxRPM=20000 and maxROF=700.</span><br /></p>torukmakto4http://www.blogger.com/profile/10734470012890561585noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7793811623191911228.post-83454820501401450442021-03-09T10:33:00.001-08:002021-03-09T10:34:12.270-08:00ACE-NX inline version - release; build notes<p>My current ESC I am building, putting into blaster projects, and am shortly to start selling on Etsy.</p><p>Gerbers, BOM, SimonK board definition, precompiled FlyShot firmware: <a href="https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1w04lxvGw-rxBViPkGWJeUk-NnfKFg8dD?usp=sharing">https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1w04lxvGw-rxBViPkGWJeUk-NnfKFg8dD?usp=sharing</a></p><p>Source: <a href="http://oshwlab.com/torukmakto4/ace-inx">http://oshwlab.com/torukmakto4/ace-inx</a></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-83yc6QxcVug/YEe2ivr4eAI/AAAAAAAAE6I/Lv38sNtwMAYAZPjIZU_N2ZAcAnKDCm_qQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1842/IMG_0432.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="651" data-original-width="1842" height="226" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-83yc6QxcVug/YEe2ivr4eAI/AAAAAAAAE6I/Lv38sNtwMAYAZPjIZU_N2ZAcAnKDCm_qQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h226/IMG_0432.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8_-f9dGI0T8/YEe2i5IoJsI/AAAAAAAAE6E/RsYNr2P6rkwK6uBQmTknAAUEfU9-qEd7wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1872/IMG_0435.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="725" data-original-width="1872" height="248" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8_-f9dGI0T8/YEe2i5IoJsI/AAAAAAAAE6E/RsYNr2P6rkwK6uBQmTknAAUEfU9-qEd7wCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h248/IMG_0435.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cxriPIKeX5M/YEe20P3mVjI/AAAAAAAAE6Y/xrVkkgZOU88WII1wmBjG5ldcOWsd3vqlwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0429.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="831" data-original-width="2048" height="260" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cxriPIKeX5M/YEe20P3mVjI/AAAAAAAAE6Y/xrVkkgZOU88WII1wmBjG5ldcOWsd3vqlwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h260/IMG_0429.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1smRvc38yWM/YEe2zzhKmSI/AAAAAAAAE6U/4B75GT9q3vc5emPdREnhzsnF5uBhwUGiACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0430.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="553" data-original-width="2048" height="172" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1smRvc38yWM/YEe2zzhKmSI/AAAAAAAAE6U/4B75GT9q3vc5emPdREnhzsnF5uBhwUGiACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h172/IMG_0430.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lEjwH1sMlqU/YEe21ygJwOI/AAAAAAAAE6c/GVzKNeZRCvsnK3h3qMjTKtBQRZcZq52uwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1781/IMG_0426.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1781" data-original-width="982" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lEjwH1sMlqU/YEe21ygJwOI/AAAAAAAAE6c/GVzKNeZRCvsnK3h3qMjTKtBQRZcZq52uwCLcBGAsYHQ/w352-h640/IMG_0426.JPG" width="352" /></a></div><p></p><p>Overview:</p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>ATmega8 or -8A @16MHz with ceramic resonator</li><li>Infineon 6EDL04N02 gate driver</li><li>Nexperia 5x6mm LFPAK56 mosfets<br /></li><li>LDO logic power</li><li>Boost converter from 5V rail for 12V gate drive supply</li><li>40V mosfet options for proper 6S support, plus 30V ultra-low Rds(on) and high avalanche ruggedness/high Idm options for aggressive higher kv motors<br /></li><li>26x46mm, 2 layer, 2oz, 10/10mil trace/space (Fab by any vendor)</li><li>Minimum 0805</li><li>Enhanced mosfet footprints for easy hand solderability<br /></li><li>Busbar ready</li><li>Designed for FlyShot support and use with tach output</li><li>ICP signal input<br /></li><li>New board target: ace.hex (see: ace.inc)</li><li>SimonK-supported status and warning LEDs<br /></li></ul><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ftP1rueGQu8/YEe242GKaiI/AAAAAAAAE6g/FQXzShVW2kEZkhVWEttfrjAFrmHt3gCfQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1935/IMG_0437.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="676" data-original-width="1935" height="224" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ftP1rueGQu8/YEe242GKaiI/AAAAAAAAE6g/FQXzShVW2kEZkhVWEttfrjAFrmHt3gCfQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h224/IMG_0437.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OEo12vdFaik/YEe289CdD5I/AAAAAAAAE6k/IqcRbxwH6UAx85pHXEEnmncMvzagkhAxgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0452.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="602" data-original-width="2048" height="188" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OEo12vdFaik/YEe289CdD5I/AAAAAAAAE6k/IqcRbxwH6UAx85pHXEEnmncMvzagkhAxgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h188/IMG_0452.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KCCnx4BYU-o/YEe2_1cZzxI/AAAAAAAAE6w/5nkCc_iMlDYRvTW_Rz99G5Rxe9HPTltEQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0462.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1365" data-original-width="2048" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KCCnx4BYU-o/YEe2_1cZzxI/AAAAAAAAE6w/5nkCc_iMlDYRvTW_Rz99G5Rxe9HPTltEQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/IMG_0462.JPG" width="640" /></a> <br /></div><p>There are no silkscreened component designators on my newer boards because they were frequently not resolvable and/or wouldn't fit anywhere with the density, so here's the usual passive placement guides, pay attention to color code:<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GnxbIF-lSlw/YEemos5ak4I/AAAAAAAAE50/MdbS4eLN3TUnxpSGeTaWjNQ4TGQuVE2cgCLcBGAsYHQ/s954/AceNXInline_Annotated_Passives_Back.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="562" data-original-width="954" height="378" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GnxbIF-lSlw/YEemos5ak4I/AAAAAAAAE50/MdbS4eLN3TUnxpSGeTaWjNQ4TGQuVE2cgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h378/AceNXInline_Annotated_Passives_Back.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-y8OWZavxzMA/YEemoruTXLI/AAAAAAAAE54/3iM_7x2bzBQL-GBB64I-T3fYxgNVwmoXwCLcBGAsYHQ/s954/AceNXInline_Annotated_Passives_Front.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="573" data-original-width="954" height="384" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-y8OWZavxzMA/YEemoruTXLI/AAAAAAAAE54/3iM_7x2bzBQL-GBB64I-T3fYxgNVwmoXwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h384/AceNXInline_Annotated_Passives_Front.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>The green labelled 50-100k resistors are an optional low side gate pulldown. I have been leaving these out - this was my first design with IC gate drivers and I felt the need to include the footprints for them anyway as I do with discrete boards, but they aren't actually required with the driver.</p><p>ISP pads with minified labels: RESET, SCK, MISO on the top row, then GND, MOSI, VCC on the second.</p><p>Other unlabeled component placements are obvious/unique. More info is in the BOM on mosfet, etc. options.<br /></p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Errata</h3><p>Above three low side gate pulldown resistors are superfluous. They also are not actually in the schematic, they were whacked into the PCB at the last moment anyway.<br /></p><p>ISP pads are small and annoying, and could use to be bigger.</p><p>Caps for decoupling and so forth are overkill. Several 1206 parts could be 0805, and a few cap footprints could probably be Muntzed or combined into one larger value cap without any ill effect.</p><p>I don't particularly like the sense trace length and routing on paper, but these handle startups and sync holding just as well as any other board so I doubt there is a noise issue with that.</p><p>The 6EDL04N02PRXUMA1 driver is in the midst of a stock shortage and is unavailable a lot of places right now. Stock should be arriving back sometime this month at most vendors, I believe, but I might design future boards with a different driver in the interest of having those plus this one around in case one driver or another is sold out like this again. I already have a supply of them to use for now.<br /></p><h3 style="text-align: left;">ATmega8 vs. ATmega8A</h3><p style="text-align: left;">The exact MCU part to be used in ATmega8-powered SimonK ESCs is an area of ongoing testing. I have only built one pair of ESCs with the mega8 part so far - but I suspect the mega8 part is a better bet for comparator tolerances than the mega8A part.<br /></p>torukmakto4http://www.blogger.com/profile/10734470012890561585noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7793811623191911228.post-58881264515847775652021-03-09T08:23:00.006-08:002021-03-09T08:23:54.580-08:00Source Project Location Update/Change for DZ Industries Electronics.<p>Due to an EasyEDA change, the source projects for all DZI blaster management and motor control electronics projects are now found at <a href="http://oshwlab.com/torukmakto4">oshwlab.com/torukmakto4</a>. The new ACE-NX board has had its release created natively in that tool and upon further investigation, the formerly shared EasyEDA projects have also been converted as well. Apologies to anyone finding a broken link in the last few months.<br /></p><p><br />As usual, refer to the release posts here, as some placeholder components have been used (fixes WIP). BOMs posted here are the final ones.<br /></p>torukmakto4http://www.blogger.com/profile/10734470012890561585noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7793811623191911228.post-79806265855387577792021-02-15T20:45:00.000-08:002021-02-15T20:45:42.882-08:00S-Core firmware 0.98 - minor update<p> What's new in v0.98:</p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><b>Improved user feedback on shot request timeouts</b> - I saw Airzone use a brief audible alert when a motor start attempt timed out without reaching speed, and figured this was a good feature to have, so it is there.</li><li><b>Miscellaneous fixes and refinements</b> like not accidentally leaving tach input ISRs enabled after they are not needed anymore in certain paths</li><li><b>Improve license statement clarity and intent</b></li><li><b>Make overspeed trip less sensitive</b> as iFlight motor options are touchy about throwing false error codes at certain speeds with older settings.</li><li><b>Add version with preset 30,000rpm flywheel speed limit</b> for use with 9.0mm flywheels in particular to reach their slightly higher criticality, but really this is more of a paradigm shift, post-presets, of there being no need for a canned "Full" speed setting to exist that is tuned for full velocity operation. Note that 30k is NOT the criticality, necessarily, of even the 9.0mm Hy-Con with any given ammo, so if you use this <i>DON'T just peg it to maximum speed, like classically done with the 25.5k setting!</i> Headroom is left so you can dial in your "full speed" preset (or use the tournament lock, if you prefer) to exactly what is getting the highest and most consistent velocity with your ammo. For even the 9.0 wheels, this is around 26k.</li></ul><p><a href="https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1qcSR2LUukkdZsTIAmAmDXFqggd-FVolB?usp=sharing">All S-Core Firmware versions available here</a> </p><p>Obviously I am rapidly approaching S-Core v1.00, and for that I have some corresponding plans. Despite all the sophistication surrounding, perhaps the most... <i>core </i>portions of the S-Core codebase dealing with feeding date to when Project T19 was a quick and dirty 2017 flywheel system testbed blaster. That code works, but is so in need of some further closing of loops and smarts. The belt-fed is already there on how the bolt management and automatic restrike now works.<br /></p>torukmakto4http://www.blogger.com/profile/10734470012890561585noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7793811623191911228.post-35561972381888456752021-02-10T10:37:00.001-08:002021-02-10T10:37:41.959-08:00Experimental T19 belt-fed conversion overview<p>Now I have a machine gun. Ho ho ho.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9V0X8nlfkHE/YCQiJOqCoBI/AAAAAAAAE5I/lJxvuNrI1ToISPyqwGE8tpqy52m7IFarACLcBGAsYHQ/s1678/IMG_0332.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1478" data-original-width="1678" height="564" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9V0X8nlfkHE/YCQiJOqCoBI/AAAAAAAAE5I/lJxvuNrI1ToISPyqwGE8tpqy52m7IFarACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h564/IMG_0332.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3rHHQu71gbU/YCQGe--3dPI/AAAAAAAAE0s/N4WYWc2M_F8FRTu9KnNsBetZiCPYgMu-QCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0332.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div><span><a name='more'></a></span><p>Belt feed has always been an underutilized technology in the sport, and I have always both seen the practical value in it and just liked it. Back in the HvZ glory days I had a Vulcan GPMG setup. Anyway... Best to go back to how this line of development started.</p><p>This was an instance of quarantine-induced BoredomCAD that occurred:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hiclT5rn5yQ/YCQHutSTmLI/AAAAAAAAE04/R9a2CHbHtuU-BAACBC7ppcKGDtntBmzLQCLcBGAsYHQ/s635/beltcad.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="524" data-original-width="635" height="330" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hiclT5rn5yQ/YCQHutSTmLI/AAAAAAAAE04/R9a2CHbHtuU-BAACBC7ppcKGDtntBmzLQCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h330/beltcad.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>The idea that perhaps disintegrating rigid belt links would work with caseless foam dart ammunition has often been thrown around, sometimes experimented with, frequently rejected, occasionally reported to work well, but it just hasn't really gone anywhere out of any of those ventures, so I decided to take a whack at it. At this point, with full length darts.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IvcEqWEbIB4/YCQIeOoDwfI/AAAAAAAAE1A/KH2DYnn22_Uke19Omvkx09wpoo74_99NwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0286.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IvcEqWEbIB4/YCQIeOoDwfI/AAAAAAAAE1A/KH2DYnn22_Uke19Omvkx09wpoo74_99NwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_0286.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><p>What do you know, it sure does seem to work nicely.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sJny-uFxNEA/YCQMiDQ2ELI/AAAAAAAAE1I/1RutXierlsEfLapBnWcH-ttA6Hbk87pXgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1496/IMG_0284.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="935" data-original-width="1496" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sJny-uFxNEA/YCQMiDQ2ELI/AAAAAAAAE1I/1RutXierlsEfLapBnWcH-ttA6Hbk87pXgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_0284.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-G3_f8cdxIJM/YCQMibEv-vI/AAAAAAAAE1M/MTEfkBZi8rgfRskgEKPytE9x0et0A-RaACLcBGAsYHQ/s1961/IMG_0288.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="379" data-original-width="1961" height="78" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-G3_f8cdxIJM/YCQMibEv-vI/AAAAAAAAE1M/MTEfkBZi8rgfRskgEKPytE9x0et0A-RaACLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h78/IMG_0288.JPG" width="400" /></a><br /></div><p>At this point, with the link design roughed in, short darts become involved.</p><p>There is particular interest in using short darts for belt-fed platforms. Smaller ammo and easier carriage is obvious, but another reason is the potential of belt feed as a practical way to use short darts in a full auto platform that isn't a box magazine, given the reliability history of the latter with short darts in this locale.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KaiecR-hkKs/YCQOGR0BfNI/AAAAAAAAE1Y/g8cZFZ57u_8j2NDnG4lztlPJCiGCRWNYQCLcBGAsYHQ/s700/shortdartlink.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="554" data-original-width="700" height="316" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KaiecR-hkKs/YCQOGR0BfNI/AAAAAAAAE1Y/g8cZFZ57u_8j2NDnG4lztlPJCiGCRWNYQCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h316/shortdartlink.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XAxvcTaKclk/YCQOGyCvcQI/AAAAAAAAE1c/Uq5RVw6mFi4l-7qDN1y7CdRLs0OMVMyQQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0294.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XAxvcTaKclk/YCQOGyCvcQI/AAAAAAAAE1c/Uq5RVw6mFi4l-7qDN1y7CdRLs0OMVMyQQCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h300/IMG_0294.JPG" width="400" /></a></div></div><br /><p>The shorty belts proved satisfactory as well. Now, I should note the intent never clearly existed at first to make a blaster to feed these belts just yet, but by this point, the situation was screaming for one to exist as soon as possible.</p><p>Given the highly experimental nature of this first testbed, I opted to modularly convert the T19 platform by adding an independently driven and controlled sprocket feed module as the best way to evaluate the belts without wasting a huge amount of time in the arms race or a huge amount of effort digging a hole that might just be in the wrong place by designing a new, tightly integrated blaster.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BZGklvE1ORE/YCQRIt2M6PI/AAAAAAAAE1s/ZshhHRUVKPs0ZqKWegeC8SchlFaDM4u6ACLcBGAsYHQ/s918/Dec29mockupbeltfed.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="610" data-original-width="918" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BZGklvE1ORE/YCQRIt2M6PI/AAAAAAAAE1s/ZshhHRUVKPs0ZqKWegeC8SchlFaDM4u6ACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Dec29mockupbeltfed.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UcqZaNi5vjM/YCQRJyoUarI/AAAAAAAAE18/sEHpqaKsiRw9XkaigAti5qi5aXQ-n6RuQCLcBGAsYHQ/s790/feedsprocketcad.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="619" data-original-width="790" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UcqZaNi5vjM/YCQRJyoUarI/AAAAAAAAE18/sEHpqaKsiRw9XkaigAti5qi5aXQ-n6RuQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/feedsprocketcad.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g9_hfMh87Pg/YCQRJeWjmjI/AAAAAAAAE14/lq8oUxbfWakFypkr5vgM9BNd7SHz5-cjACLcBGAsYHQ/s833/FeedTrayMockup.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="616" data-original-width="833" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g9_hfMh87Pg/YCQRJeWjmjI/AAAAAAAAE14/lq8oUxbfWakFypkr5vgM9BNd7SHz5-cjACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/FeedTrayMockup.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UyqR6yBZghc/YCQRIq2eHdI/AAAAAAAAE1w/dPym_y8ZAz0_QQQvpNuRl7kgRykunScrwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1006/BeltFed19Testbed.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="613" data-original-width="1006" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UyqR6yBZghc/YCQRIq2eHdI/AAAAAAAAE1w/dPym_y8ZAz0_QQQvpNuRl7kgRykunScrwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/BeltFed19Testbed.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rRrci_8YJTg/YCQRIr9TVJI/AAAAAAAAE1o/nN8J2ma2J-wWU2TVkT5u0JxCzk1wLAnVQCLcBGAsYHQ/s629/Dec29mockupbeltfed2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="629" data-original-width="614" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rRrci_8YJTg/YCQRIr9TVJI/AAAAAAAAE1o/nN8J2ma2J-wWU2TVkT5u0JxCzk1wLAnVQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Dec29mockupbeltfed2.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-de5jUo_dGGI/YCQRJLv6mdI/AAAAAAAAE10/aCeEcsaDl6gDJHtpY1ccyZShY36sL9kOwCLcBGAsYHQ/s897/Dec29mockupbeltfed3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="621" data-original-width="897" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-de5jUo_dGGI/YCQRJLv6mdI/AAAAAAAAE10/aCeEcsaDl6gDJHtpY1ccyZShY36sL9kOwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Dec29mockupbeltfed3.jpg" width="320" /></a> <br /></div><p>The sprocket is direct-driven by its own NEMA 17 motor inside the breech module. The standard T19 drivetrain stack handles the bolt aspect. A standard S-Core controller would do flywheel motor management and bolt drive while communicating to a slave board, then and now just a second S-Core, managing the feed sprocket.</p><p>In such a way linkage designs associated with pawl feed and single drive are avoided and the number of CAD/print iterations required to debug and spin up this design reduced in favor of software brute force, while also providing an extreme degree of controllability over stuff (like belt feed acceleration) that just isn't possible or easy post-build with linkages, and allowing features like restriking stuck rounds without attempting to feed the belt which have proven very useful against malfunctions. It comes at a cost and also, at a <i>mass</i>, as well as some limitations on cyclic rate of fire due to the speed and acceleration limitations of both drives, but for the nature of this it is a useful approach - and it fits the most basic MO of software-defined blasters overall as well which is a very successful one.</p><h3 style="text-align: left;"> </h3><h3 style="text-align: left;">IT'S ALIVE!</h3><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">The test mule went together well, the code came together quickly and was
cycling and (mostly) successfully firing ammo the same day, and it was off to
the great bug hunt. This slow motion clip I took for evaluating timing issues.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dzrnoKTuGCPC07iJBbFIdtNzLWulD6NG6VmHE0zjWfWF7KgwQdZkOhPUtJDRSL9LY70x-34pRqkHTYFN3iRIw' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><p>And just a bit of hacking later and this is obtained.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dykD6T-r0haCzOZboPmMTpwHLOQuLgxCiH5D6DuhQ120t7gsoTZ_nAwgf4Nr3ReOQNe2TYzBYPU4JjJeJQCew' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br /><p>Attention then turned to hammering out all the mechanical and control gremlins. The trailing edge of the feed sprocket slot in the feed tray was causing a snag, so the ramp got ground in by hand, and then once tested, CADded, along with dulling some other trouble spots.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-C6EjuZnQWOw/YCQXZilklMI/AAAAAAAAE2Y/DzEVfj1rmg8Y2sUb_VBgwI5ziauG5qnawCLcBGAsYHQ/s725/beltfedtrayfix.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="562" data-original-width="725" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-C6EjuZnQWOw/YCQXZilklMI/AAAAAAAAE2Y/DzEVfj1rmg8Y2sUb_VBgwI5ziauG5qnawCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/beltfedtrayfix.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><p>I initially did not have this green sharp edge there - the feed ramps were one radially symmetric feature everywhere except where the tray intersects. However, this gave poor constraint of the link being stripped at the time, with it potentially rotating forward in the XY plane, causing the projectile to also yaw and be mashed into the feed ramps, and also potentially being itself stuffed inside the feed ramp and then snagging on the next feed. The feed tray cover holds the links down onto the tray, and the inside surface of the link bands is lower than this edge (while the top surface of the band is NOT so), so it stops the links in the forward direction without interfering with the projectiles.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TbDDQsg776Q/YCQXZrCHJyI/AAAAAAAAE2U/4WfaHBb4wLcDBCPSjVHAwyDxxQh39EODACLcBGAsYHQ/s619/breechfrontrev2_linkstop.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="570" data-original-width="619" height="369" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TbDDQsg776Q/YCQXZrCHJyI/AAAAAAAAE2U/4WfaHBb4wLcDBCPSjVHAwyDxxQh39EODACLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h369/breechfrontrev2_linkstop.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p></p><p>And the tray cover was fitted with a spring-loaded pressure plate over the feed tray. This removes backlash from the belt and sprocket caused by a fixed clearance there and adds damping as well to eliminate bouncing of the belt links inside the tray on each feed. <br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vbFp0puEs2g/YCQXZj23Z2I/AAAAAAAAE2Q/yXDK0cG9kHQnOf8LwOlO0qaa9m1-whDHACLcBGAsYHQ/s727/feedtraycoverrev2cad.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="398" data-original-width="727" height="350" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vbFp0puEs2g/YCQXZj23Z2I/AAAAAAAAE2Q/yXDK0cG9kHQnOf8LwOlO0qaa9m1-whDHACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h350/feedtraycoverrev2cad.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>Further refinements were all on the software side including fully closed-loop cycling with no preemptive timing at all, automatic restrike without feeding on failed bolt cycles, and dialing in the motor drive parameters.</p><p>With that, the testbed was torn down and construction commenced on the field trials blaster. From cyberspace...<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Wz0VeAWTFFg/YCQbgPQNjJI/AAAAAAAAE2o/nK67pIdIQfQGFWYPnGrpbTPI5hvBwaxtwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1058/mg19-jan17mockup.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="610" data-original-width="1058" height="368" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Wz0VeAWTFFg/YCQbgPQNjJI/AAAAAAAAE2o/nK67pIdIQfQGFWYPnGrpbTPI5hvBwaxtwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h368/mg19-jan17mockup.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>...To reality.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KFnrCqgbvFc/YCQcE8vUDDI/AAAAAAAAE2w/wnzDB0X2lRoI6Iysb-fAEunBK1G-CywzACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0317.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KFnrCqgbvFc/YCQcE8vUDDI/AAAAAAAAE2w/wnzDB0X2lRoI6Iysb-fAEunBK1G-CywzACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/IMG_0317.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p>Haha, Prusa go <i>brrrrrrrr.</i></p><p>And... So does the blaster of course.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dxkBGvbm8T7yi3c-C5FeTI-3HVfdNQMZSjNX8sOxXsrflJbucslWwtVvSG83lMnWjFkdLQE6hQsPNtbMoivqw' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><p>After tying down loose ends, fixing some CAD goofs and finalizing the configuration (slightly shorter barrel, revised bipod parts, no more iron sights, and Picatinny) it's pretty much done. The rest of this post is a build album and some firing videos of the final configuration, so to get this out of the way:</p><h1 style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1bwRcPwNoFsYMkiqHhK-f43elXV_O55vE?usp=sharing">Release Link<br /></a></h1><div style="text-align: left;"> </div><div style="text-align: left;">Of course, for anyone who's about to click that, this is still highly developmental and edgy stuff, and it's a sprawling mechatronic mess of a build. I might have the control gear boiled down to something canned that I can sell you in the future, but for now yeah; there be dragons, you should be confident working with software-defined blasters or something similar like building non-kit printers to tackle this one. I have preliminary notes in there that cover a bit more about the build. Unfortunately I didn't get any WIP images on this one, but I will work on documenting them with CAD renders instead and definitely have an opportunity later to document another real build of one.<br /></div><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eHpRU_zqSBM/YCQhSfQaxFI/AAAAAAAAE28/Hk3gn8dZxIkBUybbqtcMh8LMHvebwXLaQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1678/IMG_0332.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1478" data-original-width="1678" height="564" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eHpRU_zqSBM/YCQhSfQaxFI/AAAAAAAAE28/Hk3gn8dZxIkBUybbqtcMh8LMHvebwXLaQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h564/IMG_0332.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PN98d-PIDqM/YCQhSJATanI/AAAAAAAAE24/e3k_VQ8CW9EqgL56bBLTOQyBtWNWfExcQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1858/IMG_0344.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="652" data-original-width="1858" height="224" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PN98d-PIDqM/YCQhSJATanI/AAAAAAAAE24/e3k_VQ8CW9EqgL56bBLTOQyBtWNWfExcQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h224/IMG_0344.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0_KqnWfPhyk/YCQhST2shvI/AAAAAAAAE3A/3oHRnEYZ_LMWa8rXeq7di3hPVqSOSXT2gCLcBGAsYHQ/s1267/IMG_0347.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1267" data-original-width="1201" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0_KqnWfPhyk/YCQhST2shvI/AAAAAAAAE3A/3oHRnEYZ_LMWa8rXeq7di3hPVqSOSXT2gCLcBGAsYHQ/w606-h640/IMG_0347.JPG" width="606" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Rz2-Vi-31wc/YCQhScqXHZI/AAAAAAAAE3E/eVX_gVG6VCAR_qth6kH1Kf-Yx9dRQYrSgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0351.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1178" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Rz2-Vi-31wc/YCQhScqXHZI/AAAAAAAAE3E/eVX_gVG6VCAR_qth6kH1Kf-Yx9dRQYrSgCLcBGAsYHQ/w230-h400/IMG_0351.JPG" width="230" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xgtSwUOgdIk/YCQhSryj9cI/AAAAAAAAE3I/cgFETe-GUd4IhfFCmTZoxUAAiYBwTM7ZwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1675/IMG_0354.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1420" data-original-width="1675" height="339" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xgtSwUOgdIk/YCQhSryj9cI/AAAAAAAAE3I/cgFETe-GUd4IhfFCmTZoxUAAiYBwTM7ZwCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h339/IMG_0354.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QH-z2mHTdi0/YCQhSrrp7TI/AAAAAAAAE3M/WFMIJoNef2w1sZBqHUVhxGQX-WXp-t8hQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1640/IMG_0356.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1640" data-original-width="938" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QH-z2mHTdi0/YCQhSrrp7TI/AAAAAAAAE3M/WFMIJoNef2w1sZBqHUVhxGQX-WXp-t8hQCLcBGAsYHQ/w229-h400/IMG_0356.JPG" width="229" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y9UY-8qWavU/YCQhS6Tf6hI/AAAAAAAAE3Q/8-3vNH5SnscXr5n0kEdI3x0hGSYjTUBXgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1613/IMG_0357.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1121" data-original-width="1613" height="444" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y9UY-8qWavU/YCQhS6Tf6hI/AAAAAAAAE3Q/8-3vNH5SnscXr5n0kEdI3x0hGSYjTUBXgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h444/IMG_0357.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FnjkGFH5zqk/YCQhS2nNKtI/AAAAAAAAE3U/Ye2Tc4-aNeINa3mlwkhmC3tWuazQD5otwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1536/IMG_0360.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1150" data-original-width="1536" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FnjkGFH5zqk/YCQhS2nNKtI/AAAAAAAAE3U/Ye2Tc4-aNeINa3mlwkhmC3tWuazQD5otwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h478/IMG_0360.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>This is Luna. She likes firepower. Every time I put this thing down on this bed on the way outside to do a test, she comes along and flops by it or on it.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U2iPpFtXtbY/YCQhhPLu9fI/AAAAAAAAE3g/JgUWLpjfDIgotifY4Cv75EfN6IuoPJi6wCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0331.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U2iPpFtXtbY/YCQhhPLu9fI/AAAAAAAAE3g/JgUWLpjfDIgotifY4Cv75EfN6IuoPJi6wCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/IMG_0331.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HQR36ghKTcc/YCQhhLJvFSI/AAAAAAAAE3k/lx_WNB1qM3IAjVGZrGhdgbGIQNwYPyAVACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0333.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HQR36ghKTcc/YCQhhLJvFSI/AAAAAAAAE3k/lx_WNB1qM3IAjVGZrGhdgbGIQNwYPyAVACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/IMG_0333.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z-Q4AJKvVec/YCQhhK0OcXI/AAAAAAAAE3c/6YwXa88PaBs8RkKDd9jLRARYdPw_yHgbQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0334.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z-Q4AJKvVec/YCQhhK0OcXI/AAAAAAAAE3c/6YwXa88PaBs8RkKDd9jLRARYdPw_yHgbQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/IMG_0334.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FFgmekEug7M/YCQhjSSgHiI/AAAAAAAAE34/bysHNWP2RJYx_dQYfhvnAd7QtGgTjoeowCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0335.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FFgmekEug7M/YCQhjSSgHiI/AAAAAAAAE34/bysHNWP2RJYx_dQYfhvnAd7QtGgTjoeowCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/IMG_0335.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D7dYAdvBvlM/YCQhXgXMgTI/AAAAAAAAE3Y/vmqfmJJ5LGYzPdOiSHohCClbuxrG1QSFgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0359.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D7dYAdvBvlM/YCQhXgXMgTI/AAAAAAAAE3Y/vmqfmJJ5LGYzPdOiSHohCClbuxrG1QSFgCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h300/IMG_0359.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-W3kqfsuUxFU/YCQhkxaMvSI/AAAAAAAAE4Q/uvGSkGgvYtEBj_hwrwJ1uXku2RxfhNKqgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0340.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-W3kqfsuUxFU/YCQhkxaMvSI/AAAAAAAAE4Q/uvGSkGgvYtEBj_hwrwJ1uXku2RxfhNKqgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/IMG_0340.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0KcWnkh3fK0/YCQhkYLcA6I/AAAAAAAAE4I/5CwyHzFt4SUJuYGOq69X1iFdJtto7RITgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0339.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0KcWnkh3fK0/YCQhkYLcA6I/AAAAAAAAE4I/5CwyHzFt4SUJuYGOq69X1iFdJtto7RITgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/IMG_0339.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>Note that skid mark on the white feed tray - That's from dart tips as they are fed. Guess my alignment is set right on the money then...<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8paZBBhQHv0/YCQhkNQYvtI/AAAAAAAAE4E/pkOMdiKfSD4dTjGarZoncktvNMBg8ZPpgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0338.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8paZBBhQHv0/YCQhkNQYvtI/AAAAAAAAE4E/pkOMdiKfSD4dTjGarZoncktvNMBg8ZPpgCLcBGAsYHQ/w480-h640/IMG_0338.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-T-crAp3seWM/YCQhkM57iJI/AAAAAAAAE4A/PkorWYSwZ8g9iBK-ejsyNS0RSSrsRXgRwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0337.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-T-crAp3seWM/YCQhkM57iJI/AAAAAAAAE4A/PkorWYSwZ8g9iBK-ejsyNS0RSSrsRXgRwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/IMG_0337.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eyEPr8ZmBsY/YCQhjwH7OBI/AAAAAAAAE38/KhO48zBIMbwhJERIlNjQxdVf2TEwPEVdwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0336.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eyEPr8ZmBsY/YCQhjwH7OBI/AAAAAAAAE38/KhO48zBIMbwhJERIlNjQxdVf2TEwPEVdwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/IMG_0336.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yhlt0D5_5CU/YCQhk2oJP_I/AAAAAAAAE4M/t8SrllgAxEE9_Q41_Sw3nRaAV9WNZCr6wCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0341.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yhlt0D5_5CU/YCQhk2oJP_I/AAAAAAAAE4M/t8SrllgAxEE9_Q41_Sw3nRaAV9WNZCr6wCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/IMG_0341.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_IZRj75_eSY/YCQhlB3auhI/AAAAAAAAE4U/eG5AyS6JQMguXlZNflKddec-GJBvaN_AACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0342.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_IZRj75_eSY/YCQhlB3auhI/AAAAAAAAE4U/eG5AyS6JQMguXlZNflKddec-GJBvaN_AACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/IMG_0342.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3oxzgQGB-24/YCQhlYQER_I/AAAAAAAAE4Y/4A7O9rjlpk0DJMvZ7p-8kPtoKVbbEEawwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0343.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3oxzgQGB-24/YCQhlYQER_I/AAAAAAAAE4Y/4A7O9rjlpk0DJMvZ7p-8kPtoKVbbEEawwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/IMG_0343.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vg2VndBjygo/YCQhluE3VrI/AAAAAAAAE4c/K3SbMECx4NQjXSOh-BrGrmve3kO15-EUgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0348.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vg2VndBjygo/YCQhluE3VrI/AAAAAAAAE4c/K3SbMECx4NQjXSOh-BrGrmve3kO15-EUgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/IMG_0348.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yhZJaV_-Yjw/YCQhmBIPndI/AAAAAAAAE4o/fjCtRxiuTtgQRZBpJ2H78QQUNyoz3j6RACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0355.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yhZJaV_-Yjw/YCQhmBIPndI/AAAAAAAAE4o/fjCtRxiuTtgQRZBpJ2H78QQUNyoz3j6RACLcBGAsYHQ/w480-h640/IMG_0355.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7383d10Uebc/YCQhmFrLnwI/AAAAAAAAE4k/J1797lrSqXUBq4z2U79V7AyKMqrm7J-CgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0353.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7383d10Uebc/YCQhmFrLnwI/AAAAAAAAE4k/J1797lrSqXUBq4z2U79V7AyKMqrm7J-CgCLcBGAsYHQ/w480-h640/IMG_0353.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PmPCXWjjGds/YCQhmGEQVTI/AAAAAAAAE4g/beGgA6i7tpECckqczlUKI0E9_sdPRwnNACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0349.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PmPCXWjjGds/YCQhmGEQVTI/AAAAAAAAE4g/beGgA6i7tpECckqczlUKI0E9_sdPRwnNACLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h300/IMG_0349.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dxakWmsxvEbpZvqzK7EhcHmRZhbw0IPGsRYmOI6llq3UgItXVuY-SEQwsNazYywOsmjjMF1ghRn-LoxOLz57g' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dz_HcMH6oPPomxc9mVDRM7C9Cj8b9BVCDzxrsJymLIwh99Z-EQ3fw7M_E0z-H0HXoBUGvx2SxEiKNwzfoBkfQ' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><p>Well that's just about that. Unfortunately, it still looks like a live field test is a ways off.<br /></p>torukmakto4http://www.blogger.com/profile/10734470012890561585noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7793811623191911228.post-15329580727032059412021-01-28T20:15:00.009-08:002021-06-21T16:49:56.674-07:00Flashing ZTW Spiders for FlyShot<div class="outline-2" id="outline-container-org0a717de">
<span class="section-number-2"></span>
<h1 id="org0a717de">Intro</h1>
<div class="outline-text-2" id="text-1">
<p>
Thanks for /u/torukmakto4 (in particular
<a href="https://torukmakto4.blogspot.com/2019/01/t19-build-guide-part-10-flywheel-motor.html">this</a>), and /u/bendy1996 for info on these ESCs (hopefully didn't miss
anyone!).
</p>
<p>
These ZTW Spider ESCs can be easily found on ebay and elsewhere, and are a
pretty good supply of simonk ESCs for the hobby. But flashing these,
<i>especially</i> documentation on flashing these for
<a href="http://torukmakto4.blogspot.com/2020/02/simonk-flyshot-digital-speed-command.html">FlyShot</a>
is pretty sparse. This aims to fix that.
</p>
<div class="figure">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tYul3j5V7-c/YBN_OivoxWI/AAAAAAAAAYw/GNXucE8Eiswmg1lY7wOngBMJDf3jOLtLgCNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/finished_esc.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tYul3j5V7-c/YBN_OivoxWI/AAAAAAAAAYw/GNXucE8Eiswmg1lY7wOngBMJDf3jOLtLgCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/finished_esc.jpg" /></a>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class="outline-2" id="outline-container-org0ac1e78">
<h1 id="org0ac1e78">What to buy</h1>
<div class="outline-text-2" id="text-2">
<p>
<b>Look for a ZTW Spider ESC 30A (Normal size, 25x43x9, the small ones do say small on the package, so it's hard to miss!). All the ones I have seen are labeled
Opto.</b>
<b>Be careful to avoid the ZTW Spider Pros, which won't work for our
purposes (not an AVR).</b>
Most of the listings on ebay will either say simonk in the description, or
have a picture with simonk featuring prominently on the packaging.
</p>
<div class="figure">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J8BwZD6hU6A/YBN_f89wQ0I/AAAAAAAAAY4/I4CVw4wLnp80-IV6cS1HFu7gOlMDnDXzACNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/ebay_listing.png" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1307" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J8BwZD6hU6A/YBN_f89wQ0I/AAAAAAAAAY4/I4CVw4wLnp80-IV6cS1HFu7gOlMDnDXzACNcBGAsYHQ/s320/ebay_listing.png" width="320" /></a>
</div>
<p><span class="figure-number">Figure 2: </span>Here's an example, see the top of the bag for the simonk label. <br /></p>
</div>
<p>
There's also listings for a 12A, 20A, 40A, 50A, and 60A, which I will go
into for the sake of completeness. The 12A ESC in particular seems
interesting for ultra compact builds. </p><p>There's also a 30A small I found nothing on, so from this point on assume when I say 30A, I mean 30A full size, and not the 30A small. Same for the other small variations like 40A small, and any others. They probably work fine, just untested and unknown which .inc file should be used. <br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1EgtzsVHx5Q/YBOP5Wuc16I/AAAAAAAAAak/RbIADxc_3K0qplGkT0Ssn84iAQKq-ixFwCNcBGAsYHQ/s1065/2021-01-28_22-32.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="770" data-original-width="1065" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1EgtzsVHx5Q/YBOP5Wuc16I/AAAAAAAAAak/RbIADxc_3K0qplGkT0Ssn84iAQKq-ixFwCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/2021-01-28_22-32.png" width="320" /></a></div><br /> <p></p><p><br /></p>
<p>
I can confirm the 30A/40A works using bs_nfet, and
<a href="http://www.emmanuelcarrillo.com/blog/flashing-simon-k-escslooks">it's likely the 20A will too</a>.
</p>
<p>
Based on images online and research, the 20A just appears to be the 30A
but
<a href="http://nic.vajn.icu/PDF/radio-controlled/ESC/BLHeli_supported_Atmel_ESCs.pdf">without paralleled mosfets</a>. Same size footprint, so not much of a reason to get it (see
<a href="http://imgmgr.banggood.com/images/upload/2014/09/SPIDER%20%20V2-Series%20Air%20ESC%20Uaser%20Manual.pdf">linky</a>).
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-43kE1jdYFek/YBN_yc3ZAhI/AAAAAAAAAZA/GoSbg31a16QKoCZqGy_Ncb6APF2sIIx7wCNcBGAsYHQ/s910/spider_sizes.png" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="379" data-original-width="910" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-43kE1jdYFek/YBN_yc3ZAhI/AAAAAAAAAZA/GoSbg31a16QKoCZqGy_Ncb6APF2sIIx7wCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/spider_sizes.png" width="320" /></a> </p>
<p>
<b>Warning, the following gets a bit rambly as I basically compile a few
hours of web searching and forum browsing. Feel free to skip over to
flashing.</b>
</p>
<p>
The 12A I've ordered (for some fun with a compact 1408 build!), but
haven't received yet. Feel free to ping me (/u/matthewbregg) to ask for an
update on those in a month or so. I expect bs_nfet to work on them, based
on some
<a href="https://forum.openrov.com/t/reversing-the-new-escs-what-am-i-doing-wrong/3454/13">random</a>
<a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/Multicopter/comments/3kdpiy/naze32_various_random_crash_problems/">posts</a>. I found a
<a href="https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2136895-BLHeli-for-Atmel-and-Silabs-united-by-BLHeliSuite/page79">nice thread with guts/USBAsp pad locations too</a>, that apparently indicates a V2, but the V2 still uses bs_nfet, but must
have it's fuses set over USPasp. I found a random store page with the
quote
<a href="https://www.rcnhobby.com/ztw-spider-series-12a-opto-esc-with-simonk-program.html">"V1 version means SimonK Program,V2 version means ZTW Program.We offer
is with SimonK Program,V1 version"</a>, but I wouldn't put much faith in that. Oh, well, I'll see what I wind
up getting/if I have any trouble with it. Seems worst case for the 12As is
I have to set fuses before flashing with bs_nfet, NBD.
</p>
<p>
There's also 18As, but be careful of those.
<a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/Multicopter/comments/4gauop/hobbyking_ztw_spider_series_18a_escs/d2g1pwb/">There's apparently V1, which uses the BlueSeries 12A/bs_nfet firmware,
and a V2 which uses a different firmware.
</a>
<a href="https://github.com/bitdump/BLHeli/blob/master/Atmel/ZTW_Spider_Lite_18Av2.inc">There's a BLHeli inc file available for the V2 at least, so we have an
easy way of knowing it's pinout.</a>
It should be a possible to either find a matching .inc file in the simonk
repo, or just creating a new .inc file using the pinout the BLHeli .inc
file gives us. The forum link contains images of the two pcbs, which are
noticeably different, so once obtained it should be simple enough to
figure out which version you have. Still, without a good way to tell the
V1/V2s apart at buy time (maybe a detailed shop image, model numbers?),
I'd avoid the 18A versions unless you really needed to save those 2 mm off
the width.
</p>
<p>
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FmAFvt7ssvw/YBOAUQpmgYI/AAAAAAAAAZM/kr0AKK0wvFYR61z-af1gejqf6NvToKfIwCNcBGAsYHQ/s1858/20_and_30_spider_pdf.png" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1858" data-original-width="1802" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FmAFvt7ssvw/YBOAUQpmgYI/AAAAAAAAAZM/kr0AKK0wvFYR61z-af1gejqf6NvToKfIwCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/20_and_30_spider_pdf.png" /></a>
(<a href="http://nic.vajn.icu/PDF/radio-controlled/ESC/BLHeli_supported_Atmel_ESCs.pdf">Source</a>)
</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="outline-2" id="outline-container-orgfa317ea">
<h1 id="orgfa317ea">Flashing</h1>
<div class="outline-text-2" id="text-3">
<p>
All 4 of the ZTW Spiders I have obtained so far have had a bootloader
which enables one wire flashing over an Afro linker. However,
kkmulticopter has NOT worked, it gives me a content mismatch when
verifying.
</p>
</div>
<div class="outline-3" id="outline-container-org884ad93">
<h3 id="org884ad93">
A few notes on any flashing with
a two wire flash tool (EX: Afro usb linker)
</h3>
<div class="outline-text-3" id="text-3-1">
<p>
The ESC must be powered, I use two 7.2V NIMH packs in series (overkill).
Anything with enough voltage to be above the dropout of the regulator
oughta work. You don't need, or arguably want the motor attached. I've
flashed both with and without a motor however. If you use a lithium
pack, a fuse or protection of some form is advised.
</p>
<p>
You might need to ensure
<a href="https://askubuntu.com/questions/112568/how-do-i-allow-a-non-default-user-to-use-serial-device-ttyusb0">you</a>
are in the dailout group, run your flasher as root, or chown/chmod the
device (sudo chown $USER /dev/ttyUSB0).
</p>
</div>
<div class="outline-4" id="outline-container-orgc7b3026">
<h4 id="orgc7b3026">
Linkers
</h4>
<div class="outline-text-4" id="text-3-1-1">
<p>
If you already have an Afro USB tool, that'll work fine, but those are
unobtainium now.
</p>
<p>I've got two suggestions for that</p>
<ul class="org-ul">
<li>
<a href="https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-usb-linker-for-aquastar-super-brain-fatboy-esc.html?wrh_pdp=3">TGY USB linker</a>. Same STK500V2 chip, and reports of it succeeding with afro ESCs
at least. They are also reasonably available from multiple
retailers.
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://github.com/c---/ArduinoUSBLinker">Using an Arduino as a programmer</a>.
</li>
</ul>
<p>
I have not personally tried either however, so cannot fully vouch for
them.
</p>
<p>
I can confirm that both RapidFlash and KKMulticopter have both tools
listed in their dropdowns.
</p>
<p>
Hooking up is a simple as plugging the ESC 3-pin female header into
the tool.
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qeCrtIEgMb0/YBOAl1IiSPI/AAAAAAAAAZU/rSy8fs2hPYI5hNJiGLVjqQSKMW3OCXYaACNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/linker_1.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qeCrtIEgMb0/YBOAl1IiSPI/AAAAAAAAAZU/rSy8fs2hPYI5hNJiGLVjqQSKMW3OCXYaACNcBGAsYHQ/s320/linker_1.jpg" /></a>
</p>
<p>
Note that many linkers come with a VCC pin, since I'm powering these
via a pack anyway, I just snip that. Having two misaligned VCC
voltages could do bad things.
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jY5IRSY4aEs/YBOAuhSciLI/AAAAAAAAAZY/S7dCBOFWddkd1WeaNQdicNalidF1bJZ-QCNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/linker_2.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jY5IRSY4aEs/YBOAuhSciLI/AAAAAAAAAZY/S7dCBOFWddkd1WeaNQdicNalidF1bJZ-QCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/linker_2.jpg" /></a>
</p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class="outline-3" id="outline-container-orgd8268f9">
<h3 id="orgd8268f9">
What firmware to use
</h3>
<div class="outline-text-3" id="text-3-2">
<p>
Based on reddit posts/blogs from /u/torukmakto4, bs_nfet seemed like a
safe bet for both the 30A and 40A escs. And I can confirm it has worked
for the ones I've tried.
</p>
<p>
If you get a different model, you might want to google around to check,
but as my earlier rambling indicate, this can be… tricky.
</p>
<p>
The hex file I've used has been the precompiled bs_nfet available
<a href="https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1NJeQ18s3xy0XoZG11kUxujKIIaC9oijc">here</a>. I know this works for the 30/40A Spiders, and I'm fairly certain there's no V2s or other weirdness out there to worry about with those models. This does away with the 10 khz carrier frequency for a ~17khz one,
which has proven to be fine so far, I've had no rocky starts.
</p>
<p>
If you have startup gremlins, then might make sense to download the
<a href="https://github.com/sim-/tgy">simonk github</a>, replace the
tgy.asm, bs_nfet.inc files with the ones from the above google drive. </p><p> Find
</p>
<div class="org-src-container">
<pre class="src src-fundamental">.equ POWER_RANGE = 800 * CPU_MHZ / 16 + MIN_DUTY ; torukmakto4
</pre>
</div>
<p>and change it to</p>
<div class="org-src-container">
<pre class="src src-fundamental">.equ POWER_RANGE = 1500 * CPU_MHZ / 16 + MIN_DUTY ; torukmakto4
</pre>
</div>
<p>
and run make to get your bs_nfet.hex. You will need avra and make
installed.
</p>
<p>
On
<a href="https://itsfoss.com/install-linux-in-virtualbox/">ubuntu</a>,
you can run
</p>
<div class="org-src-container">
<pre class="src src-bash">sudo apt-get install avra make </pre>
</div>
<p>
The downside to switching between 10khz/~17khz is the 10khz carrier
frequency is audible (for humans, dogs reading this may as well stick
with 10khz regardless).
</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="outline-3" id="outline-container-org377c637">
<h3 id="org377c637">
KKMulticopter/raw avrdude
attempt and failure<br /></h3>
<div class="outline-text-3" id="text-3-3">
<p>
I am suspicious of
<a href="https://openrcforums.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5036">this bug</a>, as the version of avrdude included is 6.0.1, however attempting to
use a newer version of avrdude, even with the conf file from
kkmulticopter results in
</p>
<div class="org-src-container">
<pre class="src src-bash">Reading | | 0% 0.00savrdude: stk500v2_command(): command failed
avrdude: stk500isp_read_byte(): timeout/error communicating with programmer
avr_read(): error reading address 0x0000
read operation not supported for memory "signature"
avrdude: error reading signature data for part "ATmega8", rc=-2
avrdude: error reading signature data, rc=-1
</pre>
</div>
<p>
Only difference I can find between what the output header reports is
</p>
<div class="org-src-container">
<pre class="src src-bash">SCK period : 45.6 us
vs
SCK period : .1 us (new version)
</pre>
</div>
<p>
Using the version of avrdude included in kkmulticopter gets farther,
with a seemingly successful read and then write before giving a content
mismatch error again. If you've got an idea what's wrong here, I'd love
to know, using avrdude for this directly would be great!
</p>
<p>The command kkmulticopter runs is</p>
<div class="org-src-container">
<pre class="src src-bash">/path/to/kkmulticopterflashtool_0.77/lib/avrdude/linux64/avrdude \</pre><pre class="src src-bash">-C /path/to/kkmulticopterflashtool_0.77/lib/avrdude/linux64/avrdude.conf \</pre><pre class="src src-bash">-p m8 -P /dev/ttyUSB0 -c afrousb -b 9600 -e -U flash:w:/path/to/spider_flyshot.hex:i
</pre>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class="outline-3" id="outline-container-org94b710d">
<h3 id="org94b710d">
New Approach: RapidFlash
</h3>
<div class="outline-text-3" id="text-3-4">
<p>
The bootloader appears to be there and working, but buggy with
kkmulticopter, and attempts at raw avrdude have failed. I happened upon
a different tool, RapidFlash, which did work.
</p>
<p>Usage is pretty simple:</p>
<ul class="org-ul">
<li>
Set the serial port to the correct one (on Linux, should be something
like /dev/ttyUSBN, on windows, probably COMN). You should be able to
remove/plug in your programmer and watch this change.
</li>
<li>
Set the tool to the afro esc usb linker (or whatever linker you are
using).
</li>
<li>Load the hex file via the Load Local Firmware Button.</li>
<li>Click Flash Firmware.</li>
</ul>
<div class="figure">
<p>
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nmb4zF36tuA/YBOA8_tOXuI/AAAAAAAAAZg/hvX62CHM9TEnYM6lPDkDVi86culzyKdQQCNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/rapidflash_usage.png" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1143" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nmb4zF36tuA/YBOA8_tOXuI/AAAAAAAAAZg/hvX62CHM9TEnYM6lPDkDVi86culzyKdQQCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/rapidflash_usage.png" width="320" /></a>
</p>
<p><span class="figure-number">Figure 3: </span>RapidFlash UI</p>
</div>
<p>
But of course, having this tool exist and be healthy would be too easy.
RapidFlash is a chrome app, which is going away in the middle of this
year. And it hasn't had any activity on it's
<a href="https://github.com/cTn-dev/RapidFlash">github (shoulda dropped that link earlier)</a>
page for 5 years…. So while you can grab it
<a href="https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/rapidflash/gehadojofkekobiohnefkabgimeniglh?hl=en">here</a>
for now and have it easily install in chrome or chromium, that's
limited.
</p>
<p>
Oddly enough, once RapidFlash has programmed it once, the ZTW spider ESC
is then good to go and can be programmed with kkmulticopter. I did check
the fuses and saw no difference before and after.
</p>
</div>
<div class="outline-4" id="outline-container-orga622504">
<h4 id="orga622504">
Workaround: Use portable
chromium installs that won't update and hopefully won't break
</h4>
<div class="outline-text-4" id="text-3-4-1">
<p>
<b>Warning: Do not browse the internet in these ancient browser
images.</b>
</p>
<p>
I have tested both the windows portable install and the linux
appimage, both give an older version of chromium that I expect won't
break. I also cloned the repo in case that goes poof.
</p>
<ul class="org-ul">
<li>
<a href="https://www.appimagehub.com/p/1265177/">Windows Chromium Image</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://sourceforge.net/projects/crportable/files/ChromiumPortable_61.0.3153.0.paf.exe/download?use_mirror=iweb">Linux Chromium Image</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://github.com/cTn-dev/RapidFlash/tree/5b9001edfab3435f65fa7e9bf561f31815078a1a">Github link again, follow the directions in github to enable
chrome developer mode and load an extension off the app store.</a>
</li>
</ul>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class="outline-3" id="outline-container-org807cb19">
<h3 id="org807cb19">
Final Approach: UsbASP
programming
</h3>
<div class="outline-text-3" id="text-3-5">
<p>
In the event that RapidFlash isn't working, or you won the unlottery and
got an ESC with no bootloader, you can fall back to usbasp programming.
</p>
<p>
You'll need a USBasp programmer, they're pretty cheap thankfully, <10
dollars with shipping. Personally I've had success with the "HiLetgo 51"
USBasp programmer on linux.
</p>
<p>
You can view the Atmega8 pinout
<a href="https://camo.githubusercontent.com/2389176c56219d52b950dbefe144011b63b10b6c599cba07b06e0ed1f3868eaf/68747470733a2f2f692e696d6775722e636f6d2f6e6177657145362e6a7067">here</a>. Note the MOSI, MISO, RESET, SCK, and VCC/GND pins.
</p>
<p>
You can use a multimeter while the ESC is off to follow them to the pads
(see image below).
</p>
<div class="figure">
<p>
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zulMsixcfRU/YBOBn7hQcUI/AAAAAAAAAZw/u1NaMmAKbIMU_aidOvRricP2CH5Lt0viQCNcBGAsYHQ/s1897/spider_40a_pinout.png" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1897" data-original-width="1437" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zulMsixcfRU/YBOBn7hQcUI/AAAAAAAAAZw/u1NaMmAKbIMU_aidOvRricP2CH5Lt0viQCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/spider_40a_pinout.png" /></a>
</p>
<p>
<span class="figure-number">Figure 4: </span>What the pads on the
Spider ESCs look like, and the SPIDER <b>40A</b> ESC mapped.
</p>
</div>
<div class="figure">
<p>
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GNFHpq-MaTA/YBOB02RxuBI/AAAAAAAAAZ0/LkBTQ-Ri2pc3Tka2qeEU_QLn7HUZYDPDwCNcBGAsYHQ/s1200/spider_30a_pinout.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GNFHpq-MaTA/YBOB02RxuBI/AAAAAAAAAZ0/LkBTQ-Ri2pc3Tka2qeEU_QLn7HUZYDPDwCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/spider_30a_pinout.jpg" /></a>
</p>
<p>
<span class="figure-number">Figure 5: </span>Note that the 30A ESC
looks to be verrryy similar, I'd double check, especially the VCC/GND
pads, but I imagine it's the same. I can confirm MOSI is the same at
least, and I'm holding a probe to it.
</p>
</div>
<p>
Fuses should be already set,
<a href="http://torukmakto4.blogspot.com/2020/04/esc-project-ace-lc-v20-ace-2-release.html">(you can use avrdude to change them/make sure anyway)</a>, so you should be able to hook this directly up to a USBAsp programmer
and use kkmulticopter to flash (selecting usbasp from the dropdown).
</p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class="outline-2" id="outline-container-org75d995e">
<h1 id="org75d995e">
Wiring for Flyshot and Using
</h1>
<div class="outline-text-2" id="text-4">
<p>
Congrats, you've flashed your ESC! Now you can use Flyshot to set your
speed! If however, you want speed feedback, you'll need to make one last
modification.</p><p>(And if you solely want to set the speed, and don't want a tach signal, you should probably <a href="https://torukmakto4.blogspot.com/2020/02/simonk-flyshot-digital-speed-command.html">consider this version</a> with a form of error checking, although it's not as up to date. ) <br /></p>
<p>
You need to get the MOSI pin out and available to your blaster control
board.
</p>
<p>Thankfully, that's easy.</p>
<div class="figure">
<p>
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zulMsixcfRU/YBOBn7hQcUI/AAAAAAAAAZw/u1NaMmAKbIMU_aidOvRricP2CH5Lt0viQCNcBGAsYHQ/s1897/spider_40a_pinout.png" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1897" data-original-width="1437" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zulMsixcfRU/YBOBn7hQcUI/AAAAAAAAAZw/u1NaMmAKbIMU_aidOvRricP2CH5Lt0viQCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/spider_40a_pinout.png" /></a>
</p>
<p>
<span class="figure-number">Figure 6: </span>40A Pinout again, note the
MOSI.
</p>
</div>
<div class="figure">
<p>
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GNFHpq-MaTA/YBOB02RxuBI/AAAAAAAAAZ0/LkBTQ-Ri2pc3Tka2qeEU_QLn7HUZYDPDwCNcBGAsYHQ/s1200/spider_30a_pinout.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GNFHpq-MaTA/YBOB02RxuBI/AAAAAAAAAZ0/LkBTQ-Ri2pc3Tka2qeEU_QLn7HUZYDPDwCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/spider_30a_pinout.jpg" /></a>
</p>
<p>
<span class="figure-number">Figure 7: </span>30A Pinout again, the probe
is over the MOSI pad.
</p>
</div>
<div class="figure">
<p>
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9IgyZuz-O4Q/YBOCcqXrOLI/AAAAAAAAAaQ/ECg4DNaaK-Mu9wjOKijzhuJT4x-oM6AVgCNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/mosi_1.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9IgyZuz-O4Q/YBOCcqXrOLI/AAAAAAAAAaQ/ECg4DNaaK-Mu9wjOKijzhuJT4x-oM6AVgCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/mosi_1.jpg" /></a>
</p>
<p>
<span class="figure-number">Figure 8: </span>Get access to the bottom
pad.
</p>
</div>
<div class="figure">
<p>
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-n0LXzMz7FN0/YBOCVhL4XXI/AAAAAAAAAaM/OsP7Jc_uC3sgoGtNGN4cAfMcb3_bV_eDwCNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/mosi_2.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-n0LXzMz7FN0/YBOCVhL4XXI/AAAAAAAAAaM/OsP7Jc_uC3sgoGtNGN4cAfMcb3_bV_eDwCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/mosi_2.jpg" /></a>
</p>
<p>
<span class="figure-number">Figure 9: </span>Carefully tin said bottom
pad.
</p>
</div>
<div class="figure">
<p>
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IFOjk3WdAWk/YBOCObZPKSI/AAAAAAAAAaI/kkUlsoqJaPgagG19Yj3RlYJizUjfkbktwCNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/mosi_3.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IFOjk3WdAWk/YBOCObZPKSI/AAAAAAAAAaI/kkUlsoqJaPgagG19Yj3RlYJizUjfkbktwCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/mosi_3.jpg" /></a>
</p>
<p>
<span class="figure-number">Figure 10: </span>Carefully strip some thin
wire (I used 24 AWG), tin it, and then solder that to the pad.
</p>
</div>
<p>
Now add some kind of strain relief! You don't want to rip the pad off!
You'll also want to cover up the exposed PCB somehow. I ran the wire along
the body of the ESC and wrapped a bit of electrical tape along the
bottom to serve as both strain relief and insulation.
</p>
<p>
I braided the tach wire into the existing signal wire braid, but any form
of wire management works.
</p>
<div class="figure">
<p>
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Nxe6emwPPXc/YBOCIQod4pI/AAAAAAAAAaE/zm5E2BuOfJ09fQgRGVBbYRcVK4tfes-CgCNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/mosi_4.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Nxe6emwPPXc/YBOCIQod4pI/AAAAAAAAAaE/zm5E2BuOfJ09fQgRGVBbYRcVK4tfes-CgCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/mosi_4.jpg" /></a>
</p>
<p>
<span class="figure-number">Figure 11: </span>Cut the old ESC connector,
get a new 3 pin female header, and solder the gnd, signal, and tach onto
it. I prefer to keep tach in the middle.
</p>
</div>
<p>
If you want to use a different ZTW Spider ESC than a 30A/40A, you'll want
to double check the MOSI pin. See the USBAsp section above for directions
on how to do that. </p><p> </p><p>You know, I feel like I missed out on a chance to run my Spiderman themed blaster on Spider ESCs. Oh well....</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><h1 style="text-align: left;">Update <br /></h1><p><br /></p><p>My newest spiderman themed blaster is now running spider ESCs.</p><p><br /></p><p>All is right with the world. <br /></p><p><br /></p><h2 style="text-align: left;">Spider 12A ESCs</h2><h2 style="text-align: left;"><br /></h2><p style="text-align: left;">These work just fine with flyshot, bs_nfet as expected.</p><p style="text-align: left;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CxUj5Wn0zZU/YNElmXK86DI/AAAAAAAAAco/8Fa3owQeBxk4zDxRiSBFjJBTGYe1twXQQCNcBGAsYHQ/s2014/2021-06-19%2B19.11.11-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2014" data-original-width="1188" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CxUj5Wn0zZU/YNElmXK86DI/AAAAAAAAAco/8Fa3owQeBxk4zDxRiSBFjJBTGYe1twXQQCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/2021-06-19%2B19.11.11-1.jpg" /></a></div></div>Multimeter probe is over MOSI, otherwise treat the same as the 30A/40A spiders.<p></p><p style="text-align: left;">These would probably be pretty good for powering a small FTW style blaster, with tiny 1408 brushless motors. <br /><br /></p>
</div></div>Matthew Bregghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10906881502009666408noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7793811623191911228.post-27354629860294980202020-12-17T17:44:00.001-08:002020-12-17T17:44:14.684-08:00T19 - New full length breech; iFlight Xing-E 2207 and 2306 motor support; experimental 9.0mm gap wheels and cages.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The files named by the headings in this post are, as of the publication of this post, added to...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><h1 style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1cfsm5mGHDXkl9gdmkl7Z_lcq5yUasON_?usp=sharing">the T19E1 release</a></h1></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">...in FreeCAD .fcstd source, STEP solid model, and STL mesh format in the appropriate directories with the appropriate extensions.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><h3 style="text-align: left;">T19_FullLengthBreech_Gen2</h3><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;">A redesigned full length breech. Accepts most if not all superstock standard full length (12.7x72mm) magazines.</p></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="615" data-original-width="786" height="500" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NFxXpVP84vY/X9vMpSjyVfI/AAAAAAAAEws/M0vI4CwpQnIQ_IUsRbH8hAQ-M_lD0VaQACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h500/T19NewFullLengthCAD.jpg" width="640" /></div><br /><p style="text-align: left;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EhA4Uo1JEqc/X9vvMsBCfII/AAAAAAAAEyc/b_H04IQe7RkNrcnevRJ-1wgxz0Jy1z17QCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0243.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EhA4Uo1JEqc/X9vvMsBCfII/AAAAAAAAEyc/b_H04IQe7RkNrcnevRJ-1wgxz0Jy1z17QCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/IMG_0243.JPG" width="640" /></a></div> <br /><p></p><p style="text-align: left;">Uses the same <b>T19_FullLengthMagRelease</b> and <b>T19_ControllerCover</b>s as the original style breeches did. Uses the same hardware:</p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>4 * 6-32 x 1" SHCS (Controller covers, top)</li><li>2 * 6-32 x 5/8" SHCS (Controller covers, bottom)</li><li>4 * 6-32 x 5/8" or 3/4" SHCS (Cage module to front flange)</li><li>2 * 6-32 x 3/4" SHCS (Rear flange to drive cover)</li><li>2 * 6-32 x 5/8" SHCS (Rear flange to drive housing, center 2 holes)</li><li>2 * 6-32 x 1/2" SHCS (Rear flange to drive housing, lower 2 bolts)</li><li>1 * 6-32 x 2" SHCS (Mag release pivot; shortened)</li><li>3 * 6-32 x 1/2" SHCS (Top rails to breech)</li></ul><p> </p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--b9PE9xC32s/X9vQR1aUiSI/AAAAAAAAEw8/OxJF1fs948o36Oj9n90CrKr99omKbtHJQCLcBGAsYHQ/s719/NewMagwellFlared.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="370" data-original-width="719" height="206" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--b9PE9xC32s/X9vQR1aUiSI/AAAAAAAAEw8/OxJF1fs948o36Oj9n90CrKr99omKbtHJQCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h206/NewMagwellFlared.jpg" width="400" /> </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-77xMLuLqSfg/X9vu5ay3XDI/AAAAAAAAEyU/0G6ug0PBDL0tqEkDhf3rByqVWNYcpNI1ACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0245.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-77xMLuLqSfg/X9vu5ay3XDI/AAAAAAAAEyU/0G6ug0PBDL0tqEkDhf3rByqVWNYcpNI1ACLcBGAsYHQ/w480-h640/IMG_0245.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><br /><p>The old stock-blaster-style overinsertion stop methodology using the external ridge on mag bodies is eliminated and the overinsertion stop function is provided using the top of the feed lips as with the short dart breech. Accordingly, the magwell can now be angle-cut for aesthetics and ease of loading, and flared for ease of loading, as is the case with the short breech. Original full length magwell dimensions are retained. The fit is intentionally loose on many mags as it was before, for drop-free handling with most mags, and compatibility reasons, due to the large tolerances of this mag format.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-f2wSH8GttdY/X9vR6Xu7xmI/AAAAAAAAExE/_YuE8OXbvwMCNHFG72kW1cQ9sgvKQbZRACLcBGAsYHQ/s855/FeedRampNew.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="624" data-original-width="855" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-f2wSH8GttdY/X9vR6Xu7xmI/AAAAAAAAExE/_YuE8OXbvwMCNHFG72kW1cQ9sgvKQbZRACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/FeedRampNew.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>The geometry at the front of the feed path has been improved. <br /><p>The mag is now slightly further from the cage. The thin front wall is no longer so thin behind the cage flange. This allows a compound pre-ramp.</p><p>The thicker wall with ramp also prints cleaner and reduces the risk of burrs in this critical area.<br /></p><p>The front halfpipe's edges have received a larger radius than the previous design and the oncoming lower edges meeting up with the mag body are now at an oblique angle to reduce the presentation of any sharp or tangential oncoming edge/surface at the advancing rounds.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QVmS5OT9Q8c/X9vTCUeYTVI/AAAAAAAAExM/PbmVXR8s7wolob1RlNWIaBLT-u3mgJKfACLcBGAsYHQ/s679/FeedGuideRearNew.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="576" data-original-width="679" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QVmS5OT9Q8c/X9vTCUeYTVI/AAAAAAAAExM/PbmVXR8s7wolob1RlNWIaBLT-u3mgJKfACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/FeedGuideRearNew.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p>Similarly, the rear of the feed path has received particular attention.</p><p>During the feeding process, the last event that must occur within a fraction of one cycle time as the bolt fully opens and clears the mag is that the rear of the topmost round (which was just being held down by the bolt) must rise up and seat in front of the boltface, ready to be pushed forward. If it bounces or snags slightly on anything, the bolt could contact it in the wrong position or miss and pass over it entirely.</p><p>As such similar to the front halfpipe, this now presents an oblique ramp but due to the even greater importance of this area (whereas the front of the dart has a much greater time to seat), it is compound.</p><p>Note that the sharp edge of the halfpipe end is so because it is a trailing edge.</p><p>Trivia: The caliber name <i>12.7x72mm Hassenfeld</i> is a nod/acknowledgement to the Hassenfeld Brothers, founders of a like-named company, which would eventually go on to pioneer this caliber in 2005. <br /></p><p><br /></p><h3 style="text-align: left;">T19_TopRail_NewFullLengthRearSeg</h3><h2 style="text-align: left;"><br /></h2><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4iZvIxYYy_k/X9vPp0Ggh-I/AAAAAAAAEw0/0J-9TxV-P1cSL52fIsVrVOUmApuYhIHqQCLcBGAsYHQ/s877/Newtoprailrear.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="280" data-original-width="877" height="204" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4iZvIxYYy_k/X9vPp0Ggh-I/AAAAAAAAEw0/0J-9TxV-P1cSL52fIsVrVOUmApuYhIHqQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h204/Newtoprailrear.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p style="text-align: left;">The top rail rear segment for use with the Gen2 12.7x72mm breech, which is slightly longer than the old. Not much to see here.</p><p style="text-align: left;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NyIWxNw7CfI/X9vvc9H340I/AAAAAAAAEyk/s9m-tsIPd_MFFenWVX2dNwIjiNrIEqqdgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0251.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NyIWxNw7CfI/X9vvc9H340I/AAAAAAAAEyk/s9m-tsIPd_MFFenWVX2dNwIjiNrIEqqdgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_0251.JPG" width="320" /></a></div> <p></p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Hy-Con-Delta_Main_iFlightXE_9.0_ready;</h3><h3 style="text-align: left;">Hy-Con-Delta_Main_iFlightXE_9.5_only;</h3><h3 style="text-align: left;">Hy-Con-GammaMajor_Main_iFlightXE_9.0_ready;</h3><h3 style="text-align: left;">Hy-Con-GammaMajor_Main_iFlightXE_9.5_only <br /></h3><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;">Hy-Con cage mains for <b>iFlight Xing-E 2207 </b>and <b>2306</b> motors. <b>The same cage main supports both 2207 and 2306 variants. Only the flywheels differ between the two.</b><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Q0ZEM1caEak/X9vbApyAlvI/AAAAAAAAExU/9PC8G03llUorlSF2dh0qfCKNdyZkgL3-wCLcBGAsYHQ/s899/iflightdeltacage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="550" data-original-width="899" height="392" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Q0ZEM1caEak/X9vbApyAlvI/AAAAAAAAExU/9PC8G03llUorlSF2dh0qfCKNdyZkgL3-wCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h392/iflightdeltacage.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p style="text-align: left;">These motors have open stator bases and 16x16mm mounting patterns. They have no shaft end protrusion beyond the mounting plane and require no clearance pocket under the bearing, which is deeply recessed.</p><p style="text-align: left;">Fasteners for motor mounting are M3 x 10mm button head; shared with Turnigy cages. <br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SctKTWuipc4/X9vbe445JxI/AAAAAAAAExc/AJ4unW11KhIf5r0Gps_pl6hxl386SUO_wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1013/iflightmotormountdetail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="619" data-original-width="1013" height="392" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SctKTWuipc4/X9vbe445JxI/AAAAAAAAExc/AJ4unW11KhIf5r0Gps_pl6hxl386SUO_wCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h392/iflightmotormountdetail.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p style="text-align: left;">The <b>9.5_only</b> variants have the traditional Hy-Con groove filler geometry. They suit the traditional 9.5mm gap flywheels.</p><p style="text-align: left;">The <b>9.0_ready</b> variants have slightly shaved groove fillers in order to restore safe clearance to the wheel profile with the 9.0mm wheels in the next section:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V_BiOBdiZxQ/X9vcYe5WqOI/AAAAAAAAExk/7YhQfyanFFcTy3rt2K--hiLzafwTpjHVACLcBGAsYHQ/s840/Groovefillertrim.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="588" data-original-width="840" height="448" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V_BiOBdiZxQ/X9vcYe5WqOI/AAAAAAAAExk/7YhQfyanFFcTy3rt2K--hiLzafwTpjHVACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h448/Groovefillertrim.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p style="text-align: left;">This modification by all means <b>should be appropriate to use with any wheels, including 9.5mm and any larger special-application wheel</b> - due to the radius on the filler edges in the original 9.5-minimum cages - geometry which is still the same and in the same place, only truncated a bit - this trim has very little impact on what is actually presented to the dart edgewise. I include the classical untrimmed version only as a matter of course and backup measure should any gremlins be discovered by anyone.</p><p style="text-align: left;">Also, <b>there is no corresponding set of covers (or shaft end plugs) for these mains</b> - they use <b>the existing Racerstar BR2207S covers and plugs</b>. This will very likely be the case in the future as well; most motors will be suited by either the Emax or the Racerstar cover/plug set. The Racerstar cover parts are universal to all presently supported motors and technically everything else could be deprecated.</p><p style="text-align: left;">The final little gotcha is an iFlight thing - iFlight has two main lines of motors, one of which is our relevant Xing<b>-E</b>. There are also a (just) Xing 2207 and Xing 2306 (without the -E). Those will <b>NOT work. </b>Those, in fact, are completely useless to me, because they use a novel "unibell" construction for the rotor and for aesthetic reason the outside of the rotor is <i>not cylindrical</i> thus I can't mount an OD-centric wheel on them. What we need here is the <b>Xing-E</b>, which is iFlight's slightly cost-reduced version with traditional rotor construction.<br /></p><p style="text-align: left;"> </p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Hy-Con_iFlight_XingE_2207_9.0;</h3><h3 style="text-align: left;">Hy-Con_iFlight_XingE_2207_9.5;</h3><h3 style="text-align: left;">Hy-Con_iFlight_XingE_2306_9.0;</h3><h3 style="text-align: left;">Hy-Con_iFlight_XingE_2306_9.5</h3><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;">Flywheels for these motors and cage parts. Print normally for Hy-Con flywheels i.e. 0.1mm layer height with optional 0.2 first layer height, 3 perimeters at 0.45mm or similar EW, rectilinear solid fill, 20% haxagonal infill, 8 bottoms 8 tops, random start/seam position. Nice and slow and clean, and get good fusion, and as always, whatever you do, don't underextrude. N.b.: Rotor OD fit may need tweaking for high thermal expansion non-PET materials such as ABS as always.</p><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zScs2O-wmAw/X9vhwxQiodI/AAAAAAAAEx8/DiaKTm7sYhQ76WjQWTu8GlC2AxZbePp_QCLcBGAsYHQ/s711/iflight2306wheelmotorside.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="612" data-original-width="711" height="344" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zScs2O-wmAw/X9vhwxQiodI/AAAAAAAAEx8/DiaKTm7sYhQ76WjQWTu8GlC2AxZbePp_QCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h344/iflight2306wheelmotorside.jpg" width="400" /></a></div> <p></p><p style="text-align: left;">The 9.0mm gap option is the big exciting new thing aside from the 2 new extra-grunty motors - this is still semi-experimental, but is worth a bit more zip. I have, with the appropriate speed settings <b>(remember to check maxRPM in any existing S-Core build as more than 25.5k will be required to reach critical with these on new ammo)</b>, seen 5-10fps more with used ammo and shot around 200fps with new ammo. Use <i>only</i> in concert with the <b>9.0_ready</b> cage mains to ensure safe clearances! I have not seen many ill effects on accuracy nor dart decapitation rate, after a proper break-in period has been completed, and transfer layer has been established and stabilized.</p><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z20xiPCDpnA/X9vgeZivguI/AAAAAAAAExw/dfzlXe26KroCpHkslxv_VK2kZJW4l-l0ACLcBGAsYHQ/s603/2207wheeledge.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="603" data-original-width="249" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z20xiPCDpnA/X9vgeZivguI/AAAAAAAAExw/dfzlXe26KroCpHkslxv_VK2kZJW4l-l0ACLcBGAsYHQ/w83-h200/2207wheeledge.jpg" width="83" /></a></div><p>The 2207 is a fairly long motor. Its corresponding wheel has 1.0mm of extra web offset and is 15mm thick, similar to the Racerstar BR2207S wheel.</p><p><br />In the future, this same or a similar wheel may be used to support the 2208 version of this motor in combination with a specific cage main with a circa 1mm greater mount offset; or else the 2208 may get its own +~2mm web offset wheel and possibly a slightly clearanced application specific cage cover. <br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LENyXxSqj6Q/X9vgeRiiOjI/AAAAAAAAExs/W4ERqnqHQagKv4RGAeXhYWyIzHANh9mSQCLcBGAsYHQ/s609/2306wheeledge.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="609" data-original-width="219" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LENyXxSqj6Q/X9vgeRiiOjI/AAAAAAAAExs/W4ERqnqHQagKv4RGAeXhYWyIzHANh9mSQCLcBGAsYHQ/w72-h200/2306wheeledge.jpg" width="72" /></a></div>The 2306's wheel is a standard, 14mm thickness design, albeit with a similar web thickness to the 2207 and Racerstar wheels - the 2306 is still on the long side versus the Turnigy V-Spec and especially the Emax RS2205S motors.<br /><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;">Aligning the rotor keys on these is a bit of a pain in the ass, unfortunately. Also, the rotor OD press fits are intentionally tight and the 2306 version especially is gorilla tight, so scrape/sand/deblip/destring the bore beforehand and be prepared, it's not SUPPOSED to slide on easily, it is supposed to be an interference fit. Do not thrust load the bearings, do not dare TOUCH that stator base when forcing the wheel on! It is often apt to use the shaft nut to help cinch it up the last few mm, but if it doesn't want to seat, do NOT keep cranking on it - check the key orientation and try again.</p><p style="text-align: left;">Below image shows how much the edge of the rotor backiron should be protruding on a fully seated wheel, by the way. Not much - about a mm, maybe a little less.<br /></p><p style="text-align: left;"> </p><p style="text-align: left;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XwAx5Q-3jek/X9vuoVOEdzI/AAAAAAAAEyM/ZEwTFxPh3pk86nXdb2Ec3FJg-fRyGaYSgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0247.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XwAx5Q-3jek/X9vuoVOEdzI/AAAAAAAAEyM/ZEwTFxPh3pk86nXdb2Ec3FJg-fRyGaYSgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/IMG_0247.JPG" width="640" /></a></div> <br /><p></p><p style="text-align: left;">Effort and care building a Hy-Con system will be rewarded with a long-term reliable rotating assembly you will never need to mess with ever again for as long as the motor and its bearings keep on chooching, something which those <i>other </i>blasters don't fully achieve.</p><p style="text-align: left;">The motors are each available in 3 winds - the one appropriate for typical 4S (or 5S, or 12-16 cell NiMH, 5/6S LiFePO4, etc.) setups is the <b>2450kv</b>. The 2750 would be ideal for (yes, I hear you; upcoming) multistage cages on 4S, and the lowest kv wind for high bus voltage (6S) single stage builds. As always, although kv and battery voltage have nothing to do with speed in closed-loop situations and you CAN use any combo capable of reaching the full range of speed setpoints you are using without running out of voltage command, using a needlessly high kv motor results in a less efficient system operating point and will only get you less torque, worse spinups, less battery life and hotter motors and inverters. More kv is <i>not</i> better.<br /></p><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Hy-Con_iFlightXE_ShaftWasher<br /></h3><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;">Pretty self-explanatory - as with other threaded shaft motors optioned on the Hy-Con system, these motor/wheel combos have their own correct-thickness shaft washer to both take up unthreaded extra shaft length and to spread the clamping load.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z80Q7-OztPE/X9vjcqbS1zI/AAAAAAAAEyE/2MMp8qXofdMAmJd0DjszXg9K47bAx5NDgCLcBGAsYHQ/s651/iflightshaftwasher.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="558" data-original-width="651" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z80Q7-OztPE/X9vjcqbS1zI/AAAAAAAAEyE/2MMp8qXofdMAmJd0DjszXg9K47bAx5NDgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/iflightshaftwasher.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p style="text-align: left;">Print any ways you like as long as it's got random starts and ends up 100% solid.</p><p style="text-align: left;">Be sure to check out the previous post back, on the build that validated all this stuff...<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-11mEQfJQLK0/X9wDA3DnhYI/AAAAAAAAEzU/b9m-j7B4Zv4TSDWrO98SPIG_vSfOgCIawCLcBGAsYHQ/s1283/IMG_0242.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1283" data-original-width="1271" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-11mEQfJQLK0/X9wDA3DnhYI/AAAAAAAAEzU/b9m-j7B4Zv4TSDWrO98SPIG_vSfOgCIawCLcBGAsYHQ/w634-h640/IMG_0242.JPG" width="634" /></a></div><p style="text-align: left;">As usual, it was a super satisfying one to put together, and it feeds like clockwork and shoots lasers. Full length life!<br /></p>torukmakto4http://www.blogger.com/profile/10734470012890561585noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7793811623191911228.post-63286555340511054382020-12-15T13:54:00.001-08:002020-12-15T13:54:23.527-08:00A T19E1 Delta dev build - iFlight Xing-E 2207; ACE-NX; experimental 9.0mm Hy-Con wheels; new full length breech.<p></p><p></p><p>My new general purpose rifle; perhaps.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-etd6tKE-5cM/X9kZe74V6XI/AAAAAAAAEvw/B9NzisfDAJY2AGBn8JLZjlEH2nKs6a51wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1283/IMG_0242.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1283" data-original-width="1271" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-etd6tKE-5cM/X9kZe74V6XI/AAAAAAAAEvw/B9NzisfDAJY2AGBn8JLZjlEH2nKs6a51wCLcBGAsYHQ/w634-h640/IMG_0242.JPG" width="634" /> </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span><a name='more'></a></span>This is the test build for a whole lot of new stuff which will be expanded on and released in 2 other posts, one for the blaster hardware, and one for the ACE-NX motor drive.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">First of all, this contains the very first test pair of ACE-NX boards. The reason I have been quiet on that front has been validating them, namely, with this. Sure, there are dummy loads and spinning up random cages and such, but there is nothing like a real closed-loop build shooting real darts and running some nasty, torquey, near-kilowatt range modern motors to know whether an ESC can really hack it on the last margins. And so far, I'm satisfied.<br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--X1B2u_yNN8/X9kZfE6uvFI/AAAAAAAAEv0/zP0IafgFrq0Dwutr7J1mtaDa4pUF3WUkgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1766/IMG_0238.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1002" data-original-width="1766" height="364" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--X1B2u_yNN8/X9kZfE6uvFI/AAAAAAAAEv0/zP0IafgFrq0Dwutr7J1mtaDa4pUF3WUkgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h364/IMG_0238.JPG" width="640" /> </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The other big thing: a new full length breech. This was a long time coming - the old one didn't match the new shorty breech's styling as well as lacking the new thicker 7mm drive section and cage flanges and using an outdated, stock-blaster-style mag overtravel stop approach which technically prohibited having a cleanly flared magwell opening.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This unit fixes all those issues and harmonizes everything, while maintaining the same inverter compartment dimensions, and using the same covers and mag releases. Some incremental round control/feeding improvements were made as well.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">As a consequence of some feed ramp improvements up front, and the inverter compartment length needing to stay the same despite the 7mm flange thickness to still put our big beefy controllers in there, this breech is now slightly longer than the Early-style full length breech. Thus, the rear top rail segment now has a third version.<br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qKq2fFaAFjw/X9kZfJkkUGI/AAAAAAAAEv4/LmJKfw8MieIfFibIrCBfG4jod1Ky-bqmQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1906/IMG_0239.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1056" data-original-width="1906" height="354" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qKq2fFaAFjw/X9kZfJkkUGI/AAAAAAAAEv4/LmJKfw8MieIfFibIrCBfG4jod1Ky-bqmQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h354/IMG_0239.JPG" width="640" /> </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This should seem familiar to anyone who has seen a short dart T19.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The magwell dimensions (and distinctive non-trapezoidal-ness, incidentally) are unchanged from the original. While some mags are rattly in T19 magwells, that doesn't matter to round control or feed reliability; and we really do not want anything fitting tightly. FDL-2 and -3, Foxfire and several other blasters have Icarus'd that and created compatibility problems with certain mags (Gen2 Workers, in particular) to the point of making the follower stick by chasing after that nice precise-feeling lack of clearance. That works with the shorty setups, since Talons are pretty well a tight standard, but full length mags have about 15 manufacturers, and many of the mags out there have been getting kicked around fields for the last decade or more.<br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div></div><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uLFTkRcVk8E/X9kZfjwRF4I/AAAAAAAAEwA/zg--K-3AnqstDqLaq2x5NidTj0mYMiKfQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0245.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uLFTkRcVk8E/X9kZfjwRF4I/AAAAAAAAEwA/zg--K-3AnqstDqLaq2x5NidTj0mYMiKfQCLcBGAsYHQ/w300-h400/IMG_0245.JPG" width="300" /> </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And the OTHER other big thing going on is in the cage.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I'm always cooking more motor options, of course, and generally I'm aiming for a balance of cost, availability, futureproofness if possible, torque, build quality and favorable mechanical design for a flywheel application (more on that later). But also, there is a trigger response meta afoot in large format flywheel development, and so I wanted to make sure some of the motors my blaster supported were thoroughly modern in magnetic design while also being relatively large stator and thus very torquey.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><p></p><p></p><p></p><div style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QjRlDoHJ44I/X9kZf2GaIjI/AAAAAAAAEwE/9X_PrL04mAUyf5JTf4kR4padsa75BBrdgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_0247.JPG" width="320" /></div><div style="text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The main contenders I evaluated for this were the Emax Eco 2306 and
2207, Emax RSII-2306, a few motors of the DYS Samguk series, and iFlight
Xing-E 2207 and 2306. In the end I went with the iFlight. More on <i>that</i>
later too in the parts release post. A single cage design supports both
the 2207 and 2306 variants with only a flywheel change and the existing
Racerstar BR2207S cage cover and shaft end plugs are used. This unit is running the 2207 in 2450kv wind. There are 2750 and 1800 (IIRC) as well, so there is room with them for higher speed for multistage setups on 4S, as well as optimizing either the single or multi case for higher bus voltage such as 6S.</div><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-S3KGvEnYZH4/X9kZgwxybhI/AAAAAAAAEwU/IRdwSaif7TUFj434OrZDS5T04Gv365nCwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1506/IMG_0255.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1001" data-original-width="1506" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-S3KGvEnYZH4/X9kZgwxybhI/AAAAAAAAEwU/IRdwSaif7TUFj434OrZDS5T04Gv365nCwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/IMG_0255.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><p>And the other other OTHER hidden thing is that this unit is running 9.0mm wheels and a matching modified "9.0 ready" version of the Delta cage with the groove fillers shaved just a tad. I started out very skeptical of the 9.0 the first few shoots with it, but after getting some more trigger time on this particular gun, I have warmed up to their viability almost entirely and I don't think I'm going to be changing them any time soon.<br /></p><p></p><p>Protip: It helps to use some halfway decent ammo before forming an opinion of a blaster... Never judge a <strike>book</strike> blaster by its <strike>cover</strike> groups with field scavenge garbage. Also protip: Things tend to shoot slightly like crap when they aren't broken in.</p><p></p><p>Anyway, the 9.0s are not a huge change over the good old magic-number 9.5. They pick up, at absolute most, 10fps with used ammo (more like 5 or 7 typically), and with new ammo and the speed dialed in just right, reaching 200fps is not out of the question. What is interesting is that decap rate between this 9.0 gun and my other 9.5 units is about the same.<br /><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uAq7OdNmh8c/X9kZgSoUchI/AAAAAAAAEwM/zMseda0yfdQCEICWQCmWPPF06yNhd_GawCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0251.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uAq7OdNmh8c/X9kZgSoUchI/AAAAAAAAEwM/zMseda0yfdQCEICWQCmWPPF06yNhd_GawCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/IMG_0251.JPG" width="640" /> </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Am I forgetting anything? (Yes, a minor S-Core firmware revision.)<br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Pcy3z10U_rM/X9kZgutfVxI/AAAAAAAAEwQ/RMi6vu32NEkARrK8kIT5xzReYfg--iaAACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0252.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Pcy3z10U_rM/X9kZgutfVxI/AAAAAAAAEwQ/RMi6vu32NEkARrK8kIT5xzReYfg--iaAACLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h300/IMG_0252.JPG" width="400" /></a> <br /></div><p>Out, will be back again very soon once I round all these pesky files up.<br /></p><p></p>torukmakto4http://www.blogger.com/profile/10734470012890561585noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7793811623191911228.post-43323100076664874132020-11-29T12:30:00.003-08:002020-11-29T15:02:43.586-08:00Adventure Force Sportsman internals, measurements, predictions<div><p>The Sportman has caught my attention. As I've said before, it's nifty - it does something that conventional wisdom has held to be impossible, and what's more does it well - and I'm looking for ways that it could be put to good use. </p><p>So, today I'm doing a detailed teardown of the blaster. I'm doing this to get a good look at what's in there and what it can do, but this post should also serve well as an internals reference. </p><a name='more'></a><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><p></p><h1 style="text-align: left;">Overview</h1><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TYA2pW20dug/X7QfxHe3sJI/AAAAAAAABtE/7QS-xZmKs7sRdTiDh0T0Bsgva9HQZ9rYwCPcBGAYYCw/s1017/Overview%2B1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="493" data-original-width="1017" height="310" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TYA2pW20dug/X7QfxHe3sJI/AAAAAAAABtE/7QS-xZmKs7sRdTiDh0T0Bsgva9HQZ9rYwCPcBGAYYCw/w640-h310/Overview%2B1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>Let’s start with a nice big image of the blaster’s internals, sans locks. <br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-51dQqrkhlgM/X7QfxhOvZMI/AAAAAAAABtI/3d4VlTAj08o4rURJmr-DMe4fH_ngiIs4wCPcBGAYYCw/s721/Overview%2B2.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="582" data-original-width="721" height="161" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-51dQqrkhlgM/X7QfxhOvZMI/AAAAAAAABtI/3d4VlTAj08o4rURJmr-DMe4fH_ngiIs4wCPcBGAYYCw/w200-h161/Overview%2B2.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><p>There’s dirt in some of these pictures because I had previously done
<a href="https://torukmakto4.blogspot.com/2020/11/extensive-adventure-force-sportsman.html">reliability testing on this blaster with, among other test conditions, dirty darts</a>. This is not how the blaster comes out of the box!</p><p>All of the screws in this blaster are interchangeable. There’s only one
exception here, and that’s a broad-headed screw that’s out of the way
and unlikely to be involved in a typical disassembly. <br /></p><p>The screws are also interchangeable with the screws used in the Spectrum. I hope that this trend continues. Screw standardization is one of those nice little conveniences that we’ve grown used to not having. We all have large collections of loose screws from old blasters of varying sizes and shapes - and, if your collection is large enough, you can usually find one that matches what you need. Usually. With screw standardization, that headache could be avoided. <br /></p><h1 style="text-align: left;">The hopper<br /></h1><p>This blaster's feeding mechanism is, at the time of this writing, unique. We've had hopper-fed dart blasters before in the Commandfire and Destructor, but this is the first blaster ever made to feed darts from a hopper into a breech. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iwKhuEXlP1o/X7Pxpq9ZMBI/AAAAAAAABqc/Q8gRLMi1XXMEkmEv2bhB305toYfUFVtRwCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/Hopper%2B0.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iwKhuEXlP1o/X7Pxpq9ZMBI/AAAAAAAABqc/Q8gRLMi1XXMEkmEv2bhB305toYfUFVtRwCPcBGAYYCw/w400-h300/Hopper%2B0.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>Here's a close-up of that hopper. You can clearly see the mechanism that drives the agitator panels here. (One panel is visible, but the one on the other side works in the same way.) As the bolt assembly moves, those sawtooth-like nubs interface with a nub on the bottom of each panel, repeatedly throwing them inwards, while a torsion spring on the hinge of each panel pushes it back out. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RF-nPi73gTM/X7QpJmlSuYI/AAAAAAAABtQ/oYzNpbNt0Mstb0vC6UPaMs5_W9JJM73XwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/Hopper%2B0%2Bb.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RF-nPi73gTM/X7QpJmlSuYI/AAAAAAAABtQ/oYzNpbNt0Mstb0vC6UPaMs5_W9JJM73XwCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h300/Hopper%2B0%2Bb.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>Here's a view of the hopper with the bolt fully retracted. (The orange piece in the previous picture which is missing here is part of the trigger, which fell out and is unrelated to the action of the feeding mechanism.) This blaster uses a pusher breech where the breech rod, plunger tube, and connection to the foregrip are all one unit that's held together by two screws in the middle. That's a sturdy mechanism. You might notice that the pusher breech rod has fully retracted from the hopper here. This picture was taken with the spring removed, but I have confirmed that the pusher rod does barely retract out of the back of the hopper at the point where the catch engages. That's good news for people who want to make a removable hopper!<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Q9hUMmYLWIs/X7PyfIGNe7I/AAAAAAAABq8/HoyINfbZGNcn7a7yEKUZhFLD5GxRNDttwCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/Hopper%2B9.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Q9hUMmYLWIs/X7PyfIGNe7I/AAAAAAAABq8/HoyINfbZGNcn7a7yEKUZhFLD5GxRNDttwCPcBGAYYCw/s320/Hopper%2B9.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Maybe I jumped the gun a little by mentioning removable hoppers there. To clarify: yes, the hopper is a separate piece from the rest of the blaster. There's one nub at the front and another at the back that interface with the shell to hold it in place. Remove those - and find a way to deal with the fact that the lid latches into the shell and will fall open unless a replacement rest is integrated into the hopper for its latch - and deal with the fact that the barrel is normally an integral part of the hopper - and you've made yourself a Sportsman with a removable hopper. This makes carrying spare hoppers around, including ones of different sizes, a possibility. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h8ndwbn2oQM/X7QtaBQgQiI/AAAAAAAABtc/PDk6B-kSATUP20bR4xslgrHTlfTp_0_kgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/Hopper%2B8.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h8ndwbn2oQM/X7QtaBQgQiI/AAAAAAAABtc/PDk6B-kSATUP20bR4xslgrHTlfTp_0_kgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Hopper%2B8.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Here's a view of the same, at the front of the blaster. These nubs are not quite the same; the hopper is not designed in a way that allows it to be inserted backwards. The hinge on the gate at the side of the hopper sticks out slightly on the front and back. This is accommodated by grooves in the left half of the shell while the right half has no such grooves. </div><div></div><div> </div><div>There's a missed opportunity here: this blaster could easily have been designed in such a way as to make it convertible for lefty use. Fortunately it's already fairly easy to use cross-handed, so lefties will only be at a small disadvantage. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-w-ZaMeSF-pk/X7PyKwEP_GI/AAAAAAAABqo/oZBEtvI39_0B2vcfxYi7TAjgdg_V4sY-gCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/Hopper%2B5.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-w-ZaMeSF-pk/X7PyKwEP_GI/AAAAAAAABqo/oZBEtvI39_0B2vcfxYi7TAjgdg_V4sY-gCPcBGAYYCw/w240-h320/Hopper%2B5.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>There's a sloped piece at the back of the hopper which can come out. Other than cleaning underneath it (say, after firing several hoppers of filthy darts during testing) there's not much reason why you'd want to take it out - but if you do, it slides out like this. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yVWnbKAfqmc/X7PyRMB0H1I/AAAAAAAABq0/pVI-aQaOhUoiJtIFDcLzqW9B0btMT-zdACPcBGAYYCw/s2048/Hopper%2B6.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yVWnbKAfqmc/X7PyRMB0H1I/AAAAAAAABq0/pVI-aQaOhUoiJtIFDcLzqW9B0btMT-zdACPcBGAYYCw/w240-h320/Hopper%2B6.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>Here it is again, inserted. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hbPreT6KCZk/X7Px-lLhH6I/AAAAAAAABqc/fOfbR2zSHuIyTzZNQMAYhfr266F0iJo5gCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/Hopper%2B3.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hbPreT6KCZk/X7Px-lLhH6I/AAAAAAAABqc/fOfbR2zSHuIyTzZNQMAYhfr266F0iJo5gCPcBGAYYCw/s320/Hopper%2B3.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Here are the parts for the left-side agitator panel. Take note of the tiny torsion spring - I haven't tested how the feeding of the blaster works without it, but I don't imagine that neglecting this piece would improve reliability. <br /><br />The left and right agitator panels should not be swapped. The nubs on them should be at the back of the hopper in order to be in contact with the nubs on the boltsled over the full stroke. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vVI7L4CXvgc/X7PyEGUY5CI/AAAAAAAABq0/iKD6zmNbiDQc0ojovBlP6wAAbu7a3VnxwCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/Hopper%2B4.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vVI7L4CXvgc/X7PyEGUY5CI/AAAAAAAABq0/iKD6zmNbiDQc0ojovBlP6wAAbu7a3VnxwCPcBGAYYCw/s320/Hopper%2B4.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>The aforementioned, assembled. I find that it's easier to put things in place without tension on the spring, then snap the spring over the ridge on the agitator flap in order to tension it. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-e4LCutdUzaI/X7QwPZWarWI/AAAAAAAABts/8WwICYQcvisD-niZsQnO4J5HQC7tfdimgCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/Hopper%2B1.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-e4LCutdUzaI/X7QwPZWarWI/AAAAAAAABts/8WwICYQcvisD-niZsQnO4J5HQC7tfdimgCPcBGAYYCw/s320/Hopper%2B1.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Ditto for the right side, unassembled. This side includes a loading gate for inserting single darts into the hopper. I haven't tested it much, but I can report that it's hard to use when the hopper is nearly empty and just a tiny bit finicky otherwise. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2oKiY74fT1I/X7Px3bkyfGI/AAAAAAAABqc/sieS7v4v2vcUsIw57JowufK52tWncAzsQCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/Hopper%2B2.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2oKiY74fT1I/X7Px3bkyfGI/AAAAAAAABqc/sieS7v4v2vcUsIw57JowufK52tWncAzsQCPcBGAYYCw/s320/Hopper%2B2.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Ditto for the right side, assembled. The orange piece that holds the loading gate closed is spring-loaded, with the spring being under a pannel that is glued on to the side of the hopper. It's a solid feeling mechanism that laves me with no concerns about the loading gate popping open. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8ywBw4YphXM/X7Pym-LngdI/AAAAAAAABq8/zctW3BNc4aYbUVJJejbMAJovT16mMi6ygCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/Lid%2B3.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8ywBw4YphXM/X7Pym-LngdI/AAAAAAAABq8/zctW3BNc4aYbUVJJejbMAJovT16mMi6ygCPcBGAYYCw/w400-h300/Lid%2B3.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>This is the inside of the lid. A small extension spring holds both
latches extended and the sliding button on the top of the blaster
retracts both. <p>There’s a set of telescoping plates on the underside of the lid that put downwards pressure on the darts while they are in the hopper. This prevents the darts from jumping out of alignment when the blaster is moved. A similar mechanism can be seen in the Commandfire and Destructor. </p><p>The broad-headed screw in the center of these telescoping plates is the only screw in the entire blaster that does not match the rest. <br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mvHwzeuUTP4/X7Pyt_886gI/AAAAAAAABrE/npTppJApX-8RhEkBDyS4n70CZGUy9-JeACPcBGAYYCw/s2048/Lid%2B5.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mvHwzeuUTP4/X7Pyt_886gI/AAAAAAAABrE/npTppJApX-8RhEkBDyS4n70CZGUy9-JeACPcBGAYYCw/w400-h300/Lid%2B5.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>The lid clips on top the top of the hopper. It requires a fair bit of
force to make it go on and off, but it can be done without unscrewing
the upper and lower parts of the lid. <br /><br />The orange slope on the side of the lid is supposed to assist in loading darts through the side loading gate, by providing a surface that can shove the plate upwards if the side port is used while the hopper is empty (or nearly so). It can catch on the side of the hopper when opening the lid, which is mildly alloying and can be avoided by opening the lid sideways before lifting it. I imagine that some people would want to remove it and it is posiable to do so without cutting; it could be be put back in if the user changes their mind. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UhPMG0FvuZA/X7Q1nQkfFLI/AAAAAAAABuE/IEFEstGCnr8-A0MJt_GAvz16t4BPmi8TACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/Bolt%2B2.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UhPMG0FvuZA/X7Q1nQkfFLI/AAAAAAAABuE/IEFEstGCnr8-A0MJt_GAvz16t4BPmi8TACLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h300/Bolt%2B2.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>Here's one last look at the assemblage of the boltsled. There's two things that I'd like to point out here:
first, it <i>can</i> come apart into two pieces. There are two screws that
hold it together. This was clearly done in order to make it easier to
manufacture - there's be no disadvantage to making this into a solid piece, which you might do in the unlikely event that you need to reinforce it.<br /><p>Secondly, as was mentioned earlier, the nubs that actuate the agitator flaps are asymmetrical. They throw the darts from side to side as well as up and down. <br /></p><h1 style="text-align: left;">Performance<br /></h1><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fgMnbqO_dXU/X7PxNV97HvI/AAAAAAAABps/EQxV6cBj24s7kVAm9BWKm_45GfTEqI_PwCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/Catch%2B1.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fgMnbqO_dXU/X7PxNV97HvI/AAAAAAAABps/EQxV6cBj24s7kVAm9BWKm_45GfTEqI_PwCPcBGAYYCw/s320/Catch%2B1.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>The catch is a simple rainbow-style sliding block. It looks pretty sturdy and the design is a simple one that’s known to work well. I imagine that it would be relatively easy to manufacture drop-in replacements, although I'm not confident that this would be useful given the sturdiness of the stock catch and the fact that this blaster doesn't have the large plunger tube needed to take full advantage of very strong spring upgrades. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8YwJabbpNMo/X7PxXShDWSI/AAAAAAAABp8/OyYeQeVZvPcs0P0HQbcVajQq2wAJMhlPACPcBGAYYCw/s2048/Catch%2B2.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8YwJabbpNMo/X7PxXShDWSI/AAAAAAAABp8/OyYeQeVZvPcs0P0HQbcVajQq2wAJMhlPACPcBGAYYCw/s320/Catch%2B2.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Another view of the catch.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HJllq8t6gG8/X7Q6u9-DS3I/AAAAAAAABuQ/DX704z1pS_Aji4m7aZtU76ofoiDPdHrNgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/Catch%2B3.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HJllq8t6gG8/X7Q6u9-DS3I/AAAAAAAABuQ/DX704z1pS_Aji4m7aZtU76ofoiDPdHrNgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Catch%2B3.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>The pieces of the catch, out of the blaster.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-H6o23SahHBM/X7Q8Rmq_5VI/AAAAAAAABuk/E3eTHdvljWI6WFKsC7tePXecUVNb3SzOwCLcBGAsYHQ/s851/Plunger%2B1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="271" data-original-width="851" height="204" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-H6o23SahHBM/X7Q8Rmq_5VI/AAAAAAAABuk/E3eTHdvljWI6WFKsC7tePXecUVNb3SzOwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h204/Plunger%2B1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>The plunger is interesting. The spring rests directly on the four steps in the ribs that compose the plunger - which means that the length could be increased by cutting those steps down towards the front of the plunger. That's handy for spring upgrades. </p><p>I'm a little concerned about the plastic connection between the main body of the plunger rod and the part at the back which latches onto the catch. That's likely to be the first point of failure under a heavy spring load and it'd be a tricky part to replace. The surrounding geometry of the rest of the blaster should support the construction of a scratchbuilt sturdier catch, and the front end of this plunger should be easy enough to glue to a sturdier tail end, if need be. <br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_FidTqsRMvI/X7Qxst2BwuI/AAAAAAAABt8/7LttXe6eyqIS82NbwIHoUWRok5HFflq8ACPcBGAYYCw/s2048/Plunger%2B2.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="150" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_FidTqsRMvI/X7Qxst2BwuI/AAAAAAAABt8/7LttXe6eyqIS82NbwIHoUWRok5HFflq8ACPcBGAYYCw/w200-h150/Plunger%2B2.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>The plunger is padded out of the box. That makes sense as this blaster has no air restrictor. (There’s dirt on the plunger in this picture because I had previously done reliability testing on this blaster with, among other test conditions, dirty darts.)<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dwZKBIgB558/X7Q-n_jCesI/AAAAAAAABuw/KEa9GYrxa8Y6JY5jeVSQikyRhCWVz8_0QCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/Tube%2B1.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dwZKBIgB558/X7Q-n_jCesI/AAAAAAAABuw/KEa9GYrxa8Y6JY5jeVSQikyRhCWVz8_0QCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Tube%2B1.JPG" /></a></div>The plunger tube has:<br /><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>No discernible taper, judged by manually sliding the plunger up and down the tube. </li><li>An ID of 27.15mm.</li><li>A length of travel of 86.40mm. This was calculated by measuring the distance between the back of the plunger tube and the front of the spring rest while the bolt was fully forwards, the same distance while it was back just far enough to catch, and subtracting the two.</li><li>An effective volume of 50cm^3, calculated from the above.</li></ul>For comparison, a Retaliator has:<br /><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>An ID of 24.75, measured in the tube itself after removing the orange ring from the back.</li><li>A length of travel of 61mm, counting only the movement of the plunger
within the tubeas the tube itself slides as part of the double-prime
lock <br /></li><li>A volume of 30cm^3, calculated from the above.</li></ul></div><div style="text-align: left;">A Sentinel has:</div><div style="text-align: left;"><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>An ID of 28.90</li><li>A length of travel of 81.60</li><li>A volume of 51.53cm^3<br /></li></ul></div><p>The Sentinel's plunger tube <i>looks</i> much larger, so it's a surprise to see that the volumes are so close. This can be explaned by the fact that the Sentinel's plunger tube is much longer than its length of travel - there's extra room at the back of the plunger tube that the plunger head never touches. This section is tapered and may be there to make the plunger head easier to insert during assembly. There may also be an optical illusion here, where the Sentinel's tube looks bigger in pictures becasue it's brightly coloured. <br /></p><p>The tube inside of the pusher rod as a diameter of 6.50mm at its narrowest, point, which is just before the end. The rest of the tube I'd estimate to be about 9.5mm based on the size of a screwdriver bit holder that barely fits when dropped in from the plunger tube. </p><p>The stock pusher rod can fit into 17/32nds brass. A full brass breech might help or hinder depending on whether the
effects of increased airflow counter the effects of increased deadspace inside of the rod of the pusher breech. I'm assuming that a brass pusher rod would be an improvement - brass breeches are normally made without internal deadpsace filling and I assume that this is for a good reason. <br /></p><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bjzlYSPSPcw/X7Q7IS9TP9I/AAAAAAAABuc/9HzCdHEd5Dgl-mqtfAHRcVrDevtjqd6zACPcBGAYYCw/s986/Spring%2B1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="363" data-original-width="986" height="237" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bjzlYSPSPcw/X7Q7IS9TP9I/AAAAAAAABuc/9HzCdHEd5Dgl-mqtfAHRcVrDevtjqd6zACPcBGAYYCw/w640-h237/Spring%2B1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>Moving on to the spring, the stock spring has, for whatever it's worth:<ul style="text-align: left;"><li>A resting length of 120.51mm.<br /></li><li>A compressed length of 30.12mm. This was measured by measuring the distance from the back of one of the steps on the plunger to the spring rest in the blaster, with the catch engaged and the spring removed.</li><li>A length with precompression of 116.52, calculated by adding the above to the aforementioned length of travel. <br /></li><li>An OD of 19.98mm.</li><li>An ID of 16.94mm. <br /></li></ul><p>What's more interesting is the dimensions of replacement spring that could be used:</p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Without modifying the spring rest, a maximum OD of 20.85mm - or with a modified spring rest, a hard maximum OD of 27.15mm set by the plunger tube. </li><li>A compressed length of, without modifying the plunger, 30.12mm. This could easily be increased by modifying the plunger, up to a maximum of 90.03mm at which point it would be pushing on the back of the plunger head. <br /></li><li>A length with precompression of 116.52mm; if the compressed length is increased then this must increase by the same amount.<br /></li></ul><h1 style="text-align: left;">Locks<br /></h1><p>This blaster has two locks which I'm documenting purely for the sake of completeness. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dkVlXLA7i44/X7Py3OIGlpI/AAAAAAAABrQ/sWIhLmBMNLAW1kQBuBm04of-VmjqJcAtQCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/Lock%2B1.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dkVlXLA7i44/X7Py3OIGlpI/AAAAAAAABrQ/sWIhLmBMNLAW1kQBuBm04of-VmjqJcAtQCPcBGAYYCw/s320/Lock%2B1.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>The pieces of the trigger lock. The trigger lock prevents the trigger from being pulled unless the slide is fully forwards. <br /><br />It
is possible to de-prime the blaster with this lock in place. The
trigger can be pulled partway while the slide is fully forwards,
overstepping this lock, and then pulled the rest of the way while the
slide is rearwards to disengage the catch. <p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kdoRxg0TmFw/X7Py-lUbr-I/AAAAAAAABrY/SbfrtZrCDesus9ETGBa9zSKil7KoS42LgCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/Lock%2B2.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kdoRxg0TmFw/X7Py-lUbr-I/AAAAAAAABrY/SbfrtZrCDesus9ETGBa9zSKil7KoS42LgCPcBGAYYCw/s320/Lock%2B2.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Here it is, installed. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jgizEEb1TaI/X7PzGNQnclI/AAAAAAAABrg/_xu3yMuyPGcl7ilpOKe8WSxHgZgwfM_GACPcBGAYYCw/s2048/Lock%2B3.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jgizEEb1TaI/X7PzGNQnclI/AAAAAAAABrg/_xu3yMuyPGcl7ilpOKe8WSxHgZgwfM_GACPcBGAYYCw/s320/Lock%2B3.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>The trigger lock, not depressed by the bolt as the bolt is not fully forwards. (It's close to fully forwards, but not close enough.) The trigger would be unable to be pulled. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FukjYKg9m8w/X7PzNAsdguI/AAAAAAAABro/Le6_bHO0FGciRObXzyEuT40SMdI7GIBrgCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/Lock%2B4.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FukjYKg9m8w/X7PzNAsdguI/AAAAAAAABro/Le6_bHO0FGciRObXzyEuT40SMdI7GIBrgCPcBGAYYCw/s320/Lock%2B4.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>The trigger lock, depressed by the bolt. The trigger could be pulled. </div><div></div><div> </div><div>This lock only does one thing - it prevents accidental out-of-battery firings. That's not much of a reason to leave it in, as you really shouldn't have that problem in the first place. There's not much reason to take it out either, though. The priming action and trigger pull are both plenty smooth with it in place. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qGZCu0_eoS0/X7PzUYSvcmI/AAAAAAAABrw/TpFFZKjv7hwnej27kIp6Tg6f6XbqPMNOACPcBGAYYCw/s2048/Lock%2B5.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qGZCu0_eoS0/X7PzUYSvcmI/AAAAAAAABrw/TpFFZKjv7hwnej27kIp6Tg6f6XbqPMNOACPcBGAYYCw/s320/Lock%2B5.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>The parts of the front dart lock. I’m not sure what this lock is supposed to do - it causes the barrel to become obstructed when the bolt is fully forwards, but only if it does not already contain a dart. This could prevent front-loading (but not very effectively as it could be pushed aside) or prevent very loose darts from falling out of the front of the hopper through the barrel (although if your darts are so loose that this could happen you have much bigger problems).<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iAHCtKSD7js/X7PzbMpa_XI/AAAAAAAABr0/7qtuhRVEPUg2FFGUiTYasrjCW8DbdTzjwCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/Lock%2B6.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iAHCtKSD7js/X7PzbMpa_XI/AAAAAAAABr0/7qtuhRVEPUg2FFGUiTYasrjCW8DbdTzjwCPcBGAYYCw/s320/Lock%2B6.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>The internal parts of the front dart lock, in position, missing the cover. The spring on the flap (leftmost piece in this picture) rotates the flap into a position where the flap obstructs the barrel. The spring on the lever (rightmost piece) is much stronger, and pushes the flap into a position where it does not obstruct the barrel. The bolt can push the lever down, in which causes it to cease to push on the flap, allowing the flap's own weak spring to rotate it into a position where it obscures the barrel unless the barrel already contains a dart, which would block the flap.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NdWRp6g8954/X7PziRy4crI/AAAAAAAABr8/TdFA_yJ_8Q4fg3t9_di4k9K7hVR0PXNNwCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/Lock%2B7.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NdWRp6g8954/X7PziRy4crI/AAAAAAAABr8/TdFA_yJ_8Q4fg3t9_di4k9K7hVR0PXNNwCPcBGAYYCw/s320/Lock%2B7.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>The front dart lock, assembled, shown with the bolt not fully forwards.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FTuXPPqpaew/X7PzxmusflI/AAAAAAAABsE/LWnCYH1bqCo1tjuEV49TXCuP7Xyo_ptIQCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/Lock%2B8.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FTuXPPqpaew/X7PzxmusflI/AAAAAAAABsE/LWnCYH1bqCo1tjuEV49TXCuP7Xyo_ptIQCPcBGAYYCw/s320/Lock%2B8.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>The front dart lock, assembled, shown with the bolt fully forwards. </div><div></div><div> </div><div>Theoretically, this lock should do bad things for accuracy as it presses on the side of the dart. I haven't tested how that works out in practice, but I can say that I see no benefit at all to leaving it in so the point is moot - it should come out.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TYA2pW20dug/X7QfxHe3sJI/AAAAAAAABtE/7QS-xZmKs7sRdTiDh0T0Bsgva9HQZ9rYwCPcBGAYYCw/s1017/Overview%2B1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="493" data-original-width="1017" height="194" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TYA2pW20dug/X7QfxHe3sJI/AAAAAAAABtE/7QS-xZmKs7sRdTiDh0T0Bsgva9HQZ9rYwCPcBGAYYCw/w400-h194/Overview%2B1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p style="text-align: left;">Here's a quick overview of what the blaster should look like if you're just dealing with the locks and doing no other mods. There's no good reason for either lock to be in the blaster. </p><h1 style="text-align: left;">Shell<br /></h1><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b7jMv5F9SwY/X7P0lFuwiMI/AAAAAAAABso/lNWanX19tR0bVWRDOgr6bFNN6_p7U2gkgCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/Shell%2B1.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b7jMv5F9SwY/X7P0lFuwiMI/AAAAAAAABso/lNWanX19tR0bVWRDOgr6bFNN6_p7U2gkgCPcBGAYYCw/s320/Shell%2B1.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><p>The shell comes apart cleanly. The orange part at the front is removable, as is the grip. There are two internal clips that hold the grip in place and require some force to overcome - but there's nothing that can't be overcome with a little pushing with a flathead screwdriver. </p><p>The foregrip can <i>almost</i> go on backwards, but it won’t close. Not that you’d be likely to want a backwards forgerip - it’s quite comfortable as-is. </p><p>There's a little bit of wasted space in this blaster. Some of it is at the front - the blaster could be shortened by over 13cm without loss of functionality. The rest is filling up space surrounding the hopper in order to prevent it from looking like a weird lump jutting out of the top of the blaster. Removing that would reduce the blaster's bulk within its footprint but not reduce its footprint. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QXoR0YGYPlw/X706U42T_vI/AAAAAAAABvA/A5wjRcnInxMTa2Dzhi6GWvoR55QGkj_WwCLcBGAsYHQ/s578/Screen%2BShot%2B2020-11-24%2Bat%2B12.52.04%2BPM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="578" data-original-width="545" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QXoR0YGYPlw/X706U42T_vI/AAAAAAAABvA/A5wjRcnInxMTa2Dzhi6GWvoR55QGkj_WwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Screen%2BShot%2B2020-11-24%2Bat%2B12.52.04%2BPM.png" /></a></div><br /><p>The pannel on each side which says "Adventure Force" can come off.
They're held in place with internal clips that are pretty easy to push
out once the shell is open. </p><h1 style="text-align: left;">So, what can we do with this?<br /></h1><p>In short, a lot. This is going to be a text-heavy section in an otherwise image-heavy post, so I've included pictures from <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/vagabond_photography/sets/72157646886358462/">Steph Smith's pictures of the 2014 Waterloo invitational</a>, <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/Nerf/comments/2upq2z/magazines_all_i_have_are_clips/">/u/SearingPheonix</a>, and <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/Nerf/comments/2up1pv/theyre_magazines_not_clips/">/u/h3rps</a>. <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/vagabond_photography/sets/72157646886358462/"><span></span></a><br /></p><h4 style="text-align: left;">Velocity</h4><p style="text-align: left;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-snxfjTUyaIw/Vqgp25f_NRI/AAAAAAAAAgA/m0XNkkY9DD4JDwW25qxejLb8Lk4e-MvTQCPcBGAYYCw/s320/14858837270_36ebebfec7_c1.png" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="235" data-original-width="320" height="147" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-snxfjTUyaIw/Vqgp25f_NRI/AAAAAAAAAgA/m0XNkkY9DD4JDwW25qxejLb8Lk4e-MvTQCPcBGAYYCw/w200-h147/14858837270_36ebebfec7_c1.png" width="200" /></a></div>I'm more of a flywheel guy and I don't have as much experience with
springers, so take while I'm saying here with a grain of salt - but I do
think that this has potential. <p></p><p style="text-align: left;">This blaster can reach 140fps with a <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/Nerf/comments/ia2kwc/adventure_force_sportsman_brass_breech_mod/">brass barrel and no other mods</a>, and should have potential to reach higher velocities. The limiting factor on this blaster's performance ceiling is likely to be the size of the plunger tube. The stock catch seems pretty sturdy and the internal geometry should accommodate a sturdier homemade
catch and plunger rod if that's the way that you want to take this
blaster. In terms of both ID and overall volume, the plunger tube is somewhere between a Retaliator and a Sentinel, so "somewhere between a Retaliator and a Sentinel" is where I'm calling this blaster's performance ceiling. <br /></p><p style="text-align: left;">The Sportsman should be easy to modify. You can get decent superstock velocities with just a barrel upgrade. A full brass breech should be relatively easy as the pusher breech is not a load-bearing part. The stock catch should support at least a mild spring upgrade. <br /></p><p style="text-align: left;">Someone who is using this blaster as the basis for a high-velocity build may want to convert it to fire from magazines and/or short darts. Short darts in a hopper are probably a bad idea, but a magazine conversion (for full or half length) should be very easy. An upwards vertical or angled magwell would be unconventional but still usable. With a horizontal magwell, the magazine would only barely clear
the grip. I think it could be made to work with a little trimming. A vertical magwell would require rebuilding the pump-grip area. This may seem like a silly approach given the large number of blasters which come with a vertical magwell by default - but considering the amount of work required to reinforce the priming mechanisms of those blasters, the Sportsman may still offer a more attractive starting platform. It should certainly offer at least a competitive starting platform. Conversion to magazine feed isn't the direction that I imagined that this blaster would go in when I first started looking into it - I was more interested in the feeding mechanism - but that is nonetheless that does look like something that this blaster could do well. </p><h4 style="text-align: left;">Lightweight<br /></h4><p style="text-align: left;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gQ0u_RCR580/Vqgu56nPwWI/AAAAAAAAAhM/7RRlnYfiE9Y7WxjqDkb-PQGMPqfpKEydQCPcBGAYYCw/s320/14859099047_d3c16a454b_c.png" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="235" data-original-width="320" height="147" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gQ0u_RCR580/Vqgu56nPwWI/AAAAAAAAAhM/7RRlnYfiE9Y7WxjqDkb-PQGMPqfpKEydQCPcBGAYYCw/w200-h147/14859099047_d3c16a454b_c.png" width="200" /></a></div>This blaster is lightweight and has a small enough footprint to be
serviceable as a 'runner' high-mobility build. The
lack of reliance on magazines is useful for a lightweight loadout.
Compared to other such blasters, with tend to be front-loaders, the
Sportsman has greater ammo capacity and faster bulk loading. While the
rate of fire of this blaster is low due to the fact that reliability
tanks when the grip is pumped rapidly, it is nonetheless still much
better than that of the single-shot pistols that high-mobility players
often favor. </div><div> </div><div><h4 style="text-align: left;">Backup primary <br /></h4><p style="text-align: left;">The same characteristics that make this blaster suitiable for a lightweight loadout make it suitiable for use as a backup primary. I anticipate that most people who are looking for a dedicated backup primary carry magazines and will want to put a magwell in this blaster - and, with a magwell, this blaster's profile should be smallenough to comfirtiably fit into a backpack or custom drop-leg hoster (the latter of which would be pretty easy to make with duck tape and epoxy). <br /></p><p></p><h4 style="text-align: left;">Casual play<br /></h4><p style="text-align: left;">Magazines are a bit of a bother. In order to make full use of a magfed blaster you'll need both extra magazines and an way to carry them, which presents an obstacle for casual players. This blaster avoids that while, unlike most non-magfed blasters, offering a similar capacity. The closest competitor blasters that I see in this role are the Swarmfire, Light Command, and Savage Spin. Compared to these, the main advantages of the Sportsman are lack of batteries and avaliability while the main disadvantage is reliability - sometimes it just plain fails to load and dryfires - and those are advantages that casual players favor and a disadvantage that casual players are more likely to forgive. <br /></p><h4 style="text-align: left;">Integration</h4><p style="text-align: left;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Qc2dEJQCgaI/VqgxnrLbrAI/AAAAAAAAAiU/VIaAvMi748ERtbUL2tYaCfzvkndtiMBJgCPcBGAYYCw/s320/15042517361_8e5a0eef39_b.png" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="235" data-original-width="320" height="147" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Qc2dEJQCgaI/VqgxnrLbrAI/AAAAAAAAAiU/VIaAvMi748ERtbUL2tYaCfzvkndtiMBJgCPcBGAYYCw/w200-h147/15042517361_8e5a0eef39_b.png" width="200" /></a></div>From a HvZ player's perspective, this blaster's unique feature and main
draw is the hopper, which allows for easy loading on the fly. Its main
drawback is less-than-perfect reliability - and the decrease in
reliability when fired rapidly is a (literally) killer problem!<p></p><p style="text-align: left;">This weakness could be covered over and this strength capitalized on by combining this blaster with another that is suitable for defensive use. The Sportman could provide ranged deterrent fire while retaining full ammo in the defensive component of the integration. This method of usage is reminiscent of certain early military repeating firearms, which had a magazine cutoff in order to allow the use of single cartridges and preserve a full magazine. </p><p style="text-align: left;">While I'm primarily thinking of HvZ here, this sort of build could be useful in a wide range of other games. <br /></p></div><div><h4 style="text-align: left;">Shenanigans<br /></h4><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mQvH8qWTxKY/VQo0F0wop-I/AAAAAAAAAPU/h3772zCXE9wHH0NvhjyKfyFa5tD0Uo6agCPcBGAYYCw/s919/combine_images.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="700" data-original-width="919" height="153" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mQvH8qWTxKY/VQo0F0wop-I/AAAAAAAAAPU/h3772zCXE9wHH0NvhjyKfyFa5tD0Uo6agCPcBGAYYCw/w200-h153/combine_images.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>This hopper's blaster feeds darts into a firing chamber, but it could
just as easily be adapted to fed darts into some other firing mechanism.
I'm imagining a belt-fed blaster that automatically reloads its own
belt, or a standalone device for loading magazines. <p></p><p>This blaster uses a pusher breech, and the pusher retracts back far enough to come clean of the feeding mechanism. That means that a blaster could be made with multiple feeding mechanisms and the ability to swap between them on the fly. I'm imagining a blaster with a vertical magwell underneath the hopper, with the whole unit stepping vertically to expose either the hopper or the magazine to the pusher and barrel. </p><p>Since this blaster could easily be modified to have a removable hopper or a magwell . . . why not both? If you have a removable hopper, you can make a unit that puts a magwell in its place. This could be good for making a single blaster with multiple feeding mechanisms for use in different games. </p><p>OK, some of these suggested mods are a bit wacky - but they're wacky because nothing like them has been done before, because nothing like them has been possible before. <br /></p><h1 style="text-align: left;">Final thoughts<br /></h1><p>I see potential here. Aside from the unconventional feeding mechanism, this is a basically solid springer which seems to have good modification potential, leaning more towards ease of modification than ultimate perfromance potential. The hopper-based feeding mechanism opens up a range of possiabilities. Most of these are unconventional in one way or another and time will tell whether and where each is practical. I expect that this blaster will mainly see use with magazine-feed conversions, for casual play, and in narrow niche roles. <br /></p><p>This blaster's potential for one of those narrow niche roles - as part of an integration for HvZ - was what initially caught my attention. That's still where my primary interest lies, but it is nice to see that this blaster has a broader range of potential uses. <br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p></div>Herbert Westhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07851465637020711961noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7793811623191911228.post-18998562790425822582020-11-29T12:28:00.002-08:002020-11-29T12:28:38.157-08:00Extensive Adventure Force Sportsman reliability testing<p>This has previously been posted on reddit, <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/Nerf/comments/jm7qmx/extensive_adventure_force_sportsman_reliability/">here.</a> I'm resposting on this blog primarily for the sake of having an archive with all of my work with this blaster in one easily-searchable place. </p><p>The Adventure Force Sportsman does something that conventional wisdom
has held for years to be impossible: it feeds darts into a chamber
through a hopper. Naturally, this raises concerns about whether this
blaster can do so reliably. As a hopper-fed blaster, the Sportsman
should be great for scavenging and for lightweight loadouts that avoid
the use of magazines - if it is sufficiently reliable. That's a big
"if," and that's what I set out to test here. </p><p>This is going to be a long, drawn-out post on a single blaster. There's a summary of the results near the start, after the jump.<span></span></p><a name='more'></a><p><br />This testing was performed with a mostly consistent procedure with variations intended to represent different usage conditions. One dart was inserted into the chamber, the hopper was filled with 20 Adventure Force darts (mostly the darts that came with the Sportsman, supplementing as needed with darts that came with a Commandfire), and the handle was pumped at a moderate pace while holding the blaster roughly horizontal. Since the Sportsman has a pusher breech and no double-prime lock, the feeding mechanism could be tested just by pumping the handle - darts that feed successfully displace the chambered dart and push it out of the front. The blaster was tipped forwards between “shots” in order to see whether a dart falls out of the front. <br /><br />Each test consisted of a number of trials wherein the hopper was filled to capacity, and the action cycled until the hopper was empty, however long that took.</p><h1 style="text-align: left;">TL;DR Results <br /></h1><p>While testing the blaster under a range of conditions that simulate normal usage, 77 failures occurred over 2,477 attempted shots. This is a failure rate of 3%. <br /></p><p>Under ideal conditions, a much lower failure rate can be expected, of 1%. <br /><br />This blaster is reasonably tolerant of crushed, wet, and dirty darts. It is reasonably tolerant of rough handling. It seems to work about as well with mixed non-AF darts as with AF darts. All of these are part of the "normal usage" that leads to the aforementioned 3% failure rate. <br /><br />This blaster's reliability decreases dramatically when held at an excessive angle, when the handle is pumped rapidly, and when loaded improperly. These conditions were not considered to be under normal usage. <br /><br />More failures occurred when the hopper was nearly full or nearly empty, but no level of filling was perfectly reliable. <br /><br />This blaster is sensitive to overstuffing, but would be hard to overstuff accidentally as the hopper lid is noticeably harder to close when overstuffed enough to present a problem. </p><h4 style="text-align: left;">Failure modes observed</h4><p>Five distinct failure modes were observed:<br /></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Failure to feed, abbreviated FTF, was the most common. Sometimes, darts just didn’t come out for no discernible reason. This problem usually resolved itself; the next cycle of the action after a failure to feed usually results in a dart feeding.</li><li>Repeated failure to feed, abbreviated as RFTF, means a run of failures to feed. Occasionally this would occur for no discernible reason. These run vary in length from two to at least 10 (before I stopped counting and manually shuffled the darts to resolve the issue). The length of these runs was not recorded; a repeated failure to feed is just as annoying when not under threat and liable to end your game otherwise whether it is two darts in a row that fail to fire or more. </li><li>A parallel clog occurs when two darts lodge themselves under the agitation flaps and occupy the space above the pusher breech. This happened most often when the hopper was overstuffed and was counted as a type of RFTF. </li><li>A jam occurred when a dart was pinched by the pusher breech. This usually crushes the dart, but if the action is worked carefully damage to the dart is minimal. When a jam occurred, the dart was replaced before proceeding. </li><li>Rarely, a chambered dart would fall out of the front of the blaster. This only occurred during rough handling.<br /></li></ul><p>Since I’m also interested in seeing whether this blaster is more reliable when the hopper is mostly full or empty, I also recorded when each failure occurred. <br /></p><h1 style="text-align: left;">Testing typical usage conditions</h1><p>Twenty trials each were conducted under each of these conditions, which totals 400 shots. <br /></p><h4 style="text-align: left;">Normal conditions</h4><p>The hopper was filled and emptied 20 times. Only four failures were observed in total:<br /></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>A single jam, which occurred when there were 3 darts remaining in the hopper.</li><li>Three failures to feed, which respectively occurred with 1, 2, and 8 darts remaining.<br /></li></ul><p>Four failures out of 404 shots isn’t great, but is much better than I expected. (404 is 20 x 20 successful shots, plus the four failures themselves). I’ve seen magfed springers that’ve done worse. <br /><br />I think that many of us are wary of this blaster due to its new feeding mechanism; it has been accepted as conventional wisdom for years that a hopper-fed dart blaster could never work. Yet, this is a hopper-fed dart blaster and it *does* work. <br /></p><h4 style="text-align: left;">Mixed darts<br /></h4><p style="text-align: left;">20 full hoppers were pushed through the breech, each containing four Elite darts and sixteen streamlines. (That’s what I have available right now. I’ve been separated from most of my blasters and ammo due to covid.)<br /><br />6 failures were observed:<br /></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>One RFTF when fully loaded. </li><li>Two jams, both of which occurred with one dart remaining. </li><li>Three FTFs, which occurred with 19, 1, and 1 darts remaining.<br /></li></ul><p>This is too small of a sample size to draw firm conclusions about the relative reliability with AF and mixed other darts. However, we can say with confidence that there isn’t a large difference in reliability, and reliability in both cases is not bad. <br /></p><h4 style="text-align: left;">Damaged darts<br /></h4><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V9dZvfglRcQ/X7PqCyISP9I/AAAAAAAABpQ/4bvL6j2O_DYHAlCbjywS-wvvX9zxz3x8ACLcBGAsYHQ/s671/Screen%2BShot%2B2020-11-17%2Bat%2B11.18.38%2BAM.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="671" data-original-width="530" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V9dZvfglRcQ/X7PqCyISP9I/AAAAAAAABpQ/4bvL6j2O_DYHAlCbjywS-wvvX9zxz3x8ACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Screen%2BShot%2B2020-11-17%2Bat%2B11.18.38%2BAM.png" /></a></div>Ten darts that had previously been mangled in a jam were stomped on with boots on a hard floor and then further crushed by hand. These were mixed with ten new darts. The darts, after mangling, are shown here.<p></p><p>Since this test was conducted with exactly 20 darts, the chamber was not initially loaded. Visual inspection of the chamber through the front of the barrel was used to confirm if the first dart had chambered successfully. <br /><br />17 failures were observed. <br /></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>6 FTFs with 19, 18, 11, 5, 3, and 1 darts remaining. </li><li>11 jams with 20, 9, 7, 3, 3, 2, 2, 2, 1, 1, and 1 darts remaining.<br /></li></ul><p>A high proportion of jams occurred with the drum less than half full, and most of those occurred with 3, 2, or 1 darts remaining. Presumably a full hopper holds the darts straight enough to prevent the tail end of a bent dart from curving upwards out of the path of the bolt. <br /><br />The mangled darts straightened themselves out over time. AF darts are impressively resilient - and arguably this test reflects better on the darts used than on the blaster. I would repeat this test with damaged Hasbro darts were it not for the fact that I have very few Hasbro darts to hand at the moment. <br /></p><h4 style="text-align: left;">Rough handling<br /></h4><p>The blaster was given an end-over-end “terminator flip” immediately before each time the pump was actuated. This was intended to simulate rough handling of the blaster while running around in a game. <br /><br />Twenty failures were observed in total. <br /></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>14 FTFs occurred, with 13, 10, 10, 10, 8, 6, 4, 3, 2, 2, 1, 1, 1, and 1 darts remaining. </li><li>One RFTF occurred on a full hopper.</li><li>2 jams with 1 and 2 darts remaining. </li><li>Three incidents where a dart fell out of the chamber during a flip.<br /></li></ul><h4 style="text-align: left;">Wet darts<br /></h4><p>The bucket into which the darts were “fired” was replaced with a bucket of water, and the darts were thoroughly wetted before loading. Water dripped through the blaster in such quantity that this test needed to be performed over a towel. <br /><br />Thirteen failures were observed. <br /></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Twelve FTFs, with 20, 20, 20, 20, 19, 16, 15, 11, 11, 5, 1, and 1 darts remaining. </li><li>One jam, which occurred with 16 darts remaining.<br /></li></ul><p>The large proportion of initial FTFs seems to be due to the darts sticking together. <br /><br />This was the second-to-last test performed. <br /></p><h4 style="text-align: left;">Dirty darts<br /></h4><p>This test was performed immediately after the wet darts test, with the same procedure with the exception of the replacement of the bucket of water with a bucket of moist potting compost. Notably increased friction was felt when feeding darts forwards into the chamber. <br /><br />Seventeen failures were observed. <br /></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>11 FTFs with 20, 20, 20, 20, 3, 3, 2, 1,1, 1, and 1 darts remaining. </li><li>One RFTF with 19 darts remaining.</li><li>5 jams with 20, 20, 12, 11, and 2 darts remaining.<br /></li></ul><p>This was the final test performed; the blaster was disassembled for cleaning immediately afterwards. </p><h1 style="text-align: left;">Full vs empty hopper</h1><p>Collating all of the above (except for failures where a dart fell out of the chamber during rough handling as those have nothing to do with the state of the hopper) gives the following results:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OE3IEnxRH6E/X7PnGaKeh6I/AAAAAAAABpA/537qyKlnSDEVSnAR_a6Dv6dxXfAZyq7VgCPcBGAYYCw/s670/4vAim6L.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="405" data-original-width="670" height="386" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OE3IEnxRH6E/X7PnGaKeh6I/AAAAAAAABpA/537qyKlnSDEVSnAR_a6Dv6dxXfAZyq7VgCPcBGAYYCw/w640-h386/4vAim6L.png" width="640" /></a></div><br />The most failures occurred when the hopper was either nearly full or nearly empty. Ignoring wet and dirty darts, the most failures occurred when the hopper was nearly empty but there was no amount of loading where the hopper functioned perfectly reliably. <br /><p></p><h1 style="text-align: left;">Abnormal usage conditions</h1><h4 style="text-align: left;">Angled firing<br /></h4><p>The hopper was filled and emptied 5 times, while holding the blaster at a roughly 45 degree angle, rotated about the axis of the bore. This was intended to simulate use of the blaster while running and maneuvering. <br /><br />Over these 5 trials, a total of 26 failures occurred. <br /></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Three jams, which occurred with 3, 12, and 17 darts remaining in the hopper. </li><li>Six RFTF, three of which occurred with 1 dart remaining, one with 6, and one with 2.</li><li>Seventeen FTF, which occurred with 17, 13, 13, 12, 12, 11, 9, 9, 9, 8, 4, 4, 4, 3, 2, 2, and 2 darts remaining.<br /></li></ul><p>That’s pretty bad. This blaster is one that needs to be held upright in order to function reliable. That’s not necessarily a killer flaw - I knew someone who’d wield his Stampedes upside-down back around 2010 or so so that he could make Raider drums feed reliably. Compared to that, needing to hold a blaster the right way up should be easy!<br /></p><h4 style="text-align: left;">Rough loading</h4><p>The blaster was loaded roughly, a some might do when cramming darts in in a hurry. Six trials were conducted. <br /><br />A total of 13 failures occurred. <br /></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>4 FTFs with 20, 19, 18, and 6 darts</li><li>4 RFTFs with 20, 19, 7, and 3 darts, including a parallel clog</li><li>2 jams with 7 and 5 darts</li><li>Burst open three times, twice when full and once with 19 darts<br /></li></ul><h4 style="text-align: left;">Rapid pumping</h4><p>The pump of the blaster was cranked very rapidly - as fast as I physically could without risk of short-stroking. Only 5 trials were conducted and each was carried out only until a jam occurred, in order to minimize the number of darts destroyed in jams. <br /><br />The results of each trial were as follows:<br /></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>One dart ‘fired’ and three FTFs</li><li>One dart ‘fired’</li><li>5 darts ‘fired’, 2 FTFs</li><li>3 darts ‘fired’</li><li>A single dart ‘fired’ again<br /></li></ul><p>Clearly, this blaster does not serve well when the grip is pumped rapidly! <br /></p><h4 style="text-align: left;">Overstuffing<br /></h4><p>21 darts were loaded into the hopper, and the grip was pumped five times, with the trial repeated 10 times. (That’s only five because the purpose of this test is to determine the blaster’s susceptibility to overstuffing.)<br /><br />Only one failure was observed: an RFTF on the first shot. Other than that, the blaster worked fine. This level of reliability is consistent with what was observed with a hopper loaded to capacity. <br /><br />This was repeated with the hopper loaded with 22 darts. Over 10 trials, there were:<br /></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>2 FTFs</li><li>4 RFTFs, including 2 parallel clogs</li><li>Once, the lid popped open<br /></li></ul><p style="text-align: left;">The blaster was loaded with 25 darts next. Only five trials were conducted, but each ended in failure with only five darts successfully ‘fired’ in total:<br /></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Once, the slide was locked due to pressure from the darts against the agitation panels. </li><li>A parallel clog occurred, with one shot loaded successfully first. </li><li>Three times, the lid popped open - once after successfully cycling through four darts.<br /></li></ul><p>This blaster is tolerant of being slightly overfilled, as may happen accidentally. However, it quickly looses reliability when crammed full of darts. As a rule of thumb, if the lid offers resistance on closing the blaster needs fewer darts. <br /></p><h1 style="text-align: left;">Conclusion<br /></h1><p>The Adventure Force Sportsman is a surprisingly reliable blaster given that it fires darts from a hopper, but it does not fare well compared to a well-functioning magazine-fed blaster. <br /><br />This blaster is tantalizingly almost suitable for a number of roles, but it just isn’t quite reliable or robust enough for each. It would make a good loaner blaster due to the lack of need for magazines and ease of use with bulk-loaded and scavenged darts were it not for the fact that it takes some care and finesse to use effectively. It would be good for long games such as HvZ where the ability to scavenge darts is useful and the lack of need for magazines could make for an overall high-ammo yet lightweight loadout, except for the fact that reliability is paramount in HvZ and this just isn’t quite perfectly reliable even under optimal conditions. <br /><br />I'll admit that I'm a little biased in favor of this blaster because it's nifty. I'm looking for roles that this blaster could fill well. Perhaps I'm taking a backwards approach - looking for problems for a solution - but nonetheless that's my current thought process. <br /><br />The main role that comes to my mind where this blaster could excel is as part of an integration. This blaster could be used to plink at distant targets and provide deterrent fire while not under threat, while the other component of the integration would be relied on for defense. It may be worthwhile to convert this blaster to lever of bolt action, as that would naturally slow cycling while leaving the pump-grip area free for use by the other component of the integration. <br /><br />In this role, the closest point of comparison would be a Commandfire or Swarmfire. Both blasters require batteries and overall higher weight but offer automatic fire, which while not necessary is still nice to have for a suppressive role. The Swarmfire is slower to load but much more reliable; Swarmfires are often used as the defensive component of an integration. (The Commandfire has a larger hopper by default, but hoppers are relatively easy to expand so I do not consider this to be a major factor). Importantly, neither blaster is strictly superior to this one; so there *is* a narrow role in which this blaster could excel. <br /><br />Maybe there's more ways to put this blaster to good use - and identifying this blaster's capabilities is the first step to finding them. Hence, this testing.<br /></p><br />Herbert Westhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07851465637020711961noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7793811623191911228.post-45527479905379369052020-11-14T08:49:00.002-08:002020-11-14T11:18:31.899-08:00Thoughts on MLCC as inverter DC link capacitor<p>In quadcopter/drone ESCs post-BLHeli, it has bcome common to use arrays of multilayer ceramic capacitors (MLCC) as the DC link capacitance. A MLCC farm like this has become a familiar sight.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41LMdOT8RGL._AC_SX425_.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="212" data-original-width="372" src="https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41LMdOT8RGL._AC_SX425_.jpg" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>There is some considerable merit behind this. MLCCs have extremely low ESR and ESL, comparable to plastic film caps and any other type of non-electrolytic capacitor, and could do the job with much less capacitance than an electrolytic, which actually really suck at being DC link caps, despite always being used historically for DC link caps. <a href="https://www.kalbeck.com/asset/630/Whitepaper%20SalconeBond.pdf">More reading on the subject</a>. Beyond that, an array of MLCCs on a board packages flat and thin and avoids dangly bits, and in terms of overall package length, the length of an existing lytic can added to the PCB is enough area to fit plenty of MLCCs.</p><p>On the cost front, it isn't too bad. A 10uF 50V X7R 1206 part, likely similar to the 18 parts on the above nerfish-scale board, from the vendor I usually use for MLCCs (Samsung Electro-Mechanics) can be had for 10 to 15 cents at this point in moderate quantity. If the Salcone-Bond whitepaper example cases are taken to frame a rule of thumb, certainly 18 to 20 such parts totalling 180 to 200 uF should suffice in most cases to replace the lytic(s) outright, at least in the current handling and bus ripple sense.</p><p>There are a couple of reasons I have been very reluctant about adopting either this strategy or a hybrid one with a smaller lytic and a handful of MLCC though, instead favoring the tried and true, dirty great big electrolytic, solution.</p><p>One is that MLCCs are brittle and sensitive to stress, whether mechanically induced (external forces or flexing applied to boards) or due to thermal expansion. And when these things crack, they often become shorted. High-current, deeply parallel MLCC farms directly across a lipo and immediately next to a heat source (FETs) give me pause for this reason - there are a lot of parts there to multiply the failure probability, they are attached to beefy, heavy (inflexible) copper planes, they get heated a whole lot at installation to solder them down to said planes, and they and the differentially expanding PCB are being constantly thermal cycled by FET heat in operation. If one dies, it likely causes a rather high-energy smokey unconfined failure, destroying the PCB and possibly resulting in combustion. I worry enough about the single big MLCCs that are across the battery on my ESCs and S-Core boards already. Is it really worth such fear? It is paranoia? I don't know, drones don't seem to be nuking ESCs all that frequently, I guess. Meh.<br /></p><p>Another is that a pure MLCC solution has no "damping" the way lytics do. Small motor controllers normally don't have precharge setups for the caps at startup, and just get switched up with a huge inrush into the caps (and the familiar spark). Between the source inductance and the several hundred uF of basically-zero ESR caps, there could be spiking when powering up with just ceramic caps. It's like setting a car suspension spring vertically on the ground and hitting it with a sledgehammer. Pololu warns about this with their DRV8825 carrier boards, and their answer is to always have a lytic nearby on the same bus (as the 4.7uF 1206 input cap on the board). Advice to do similar things is common. So perhaps it is apt to use a hybrid solution at most, not purely MLCCs. Or perhaps a TVS on the bus could guard the FETs and logic power supply against overvoltage spikes sufficiently.</p><p>The third is that a MLCC farm to replace lytics turns 1 or 2 parts into 15-20 or more for a larger board, and a hybrid solution adds 4-6 parts and still doesn't completely remove the lytic cans that have to stick out somewhere, only make them smaller.</p><p>The fourth is that often, a huge surplus of capacitance is beneficial. The Salcone-Bond view of DC link caps assumes that they are solely there to source ripple current and stabilize the bus voltage at the input. In the real world, big lytics are often doing something else. In VFDs and appliance motor drives, they are much more a bulk energy store, since the input is rectified 50/60Hz mains and there are big valleys in the voltage that need filling in. In blasters, that's irrelevant, but they sometimes are doing the same thing to cache some local charge and prevent marginal battery and wiring conditions from causing the floor to fall out of the bus voltage as easily during a motor current transient (possibly to the extent of causing MCU resets and other woes). It's all the more important when batteries are NOT lipos (lipos are much more non-inductive than usual due to the stacked construction) and/or there is a long cable between the battery and the inverter, which appears multiple places in blaster design. Blasters can have much less optimal battery situations than RC stuff - just the matter that people play HvZ where/when there is snow on the ground and they are NOT going to be keeping a pack warm, for instance.<br /></p><p>On the flip side, I do suspect my layouts with just the lytic at the end of the board are suboptimally decoupled and could benefit from a few MLCCs very, very near the actual devices in addition. And I kinda want to do a lytic-less board sometimes just for variety and to have an option that can be as thin as possible.</p><p><br />Edit/footnotes: <a href="https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=38006136&postcount=1220">https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=38006136&postcount=1220</a> <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/Multicopter/comments/7nb2zs">https://www.reddit.com/r/Multicopter/comments/7nb2zs</a> <a href="https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=41652761&postcount=16">https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=41652761&postcount=16</a> <a href="https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=41660297&postcount=17">https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=41660297&postcount=17</a> More interesting accounts of electrolytics and MLCCs and I wasn't surprised to see the exploded rail of MLCCs with a 1000uF lytic bodged in its place! <br /></p>torukmakto4http://www.blogger.com/profile/10734470012890561585noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7793811623191911228.post-2927941219435914332020-11-14T07:00:00.002-08:002020-11-14T07:00:30.972-08:00ACE-NX inline final tweaks, test boards on the way.<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Last revisions: Fixed some potential shortcomings with grounding. Added a little copper island on the other side behind the phase wire pads on the edge. Stitched to the pad with 3 vias.<br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="573" data-original-width="954" height="384" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qN2gy_F0FgU/X69R0JeBEBI/AAAAAAAAEvA/qYnGVQS0JJk1bqoLh30QhmLI_Z4N4lirwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h384/AceNXInlineFinalFront.jpg" width="640" /></div><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>The idea here is to make the phase wire pad more rugged against lifting, this is common to use vias for this purpose in drone ESC boards. It also adds a small extra thermal area and mass to the lowside device.<br /></p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7w-R-SXlcL0/X69R0EHtUGI/AAAAAAAAEu8/hvXEU-ZTejMEUE1Pbvg9nqTerGr1s-fPgCLcBGAsYHQ/s954/AceNXInlineFinalBack.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="562" data-original-width="954" height="378" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7w-R-SXlcL0/X69R0EHtUGI/AAAAAAAAEu8/hvXEU-ZTejMEUE1Pbvg9nqTerGr1s-fPgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h378/AceNXInlineFinalBack.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />I decided to mothball the LC Mini for now and focus on getting this beastie spooled up first. It will also be my potential dev board for the 6EDL04/ace.hex target before doing the mountable version. <br /><p></p>torukmakto4http://www.blogger.com/profile/10734470012890561585noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7793811623191911228.post-18999795579503510312020-11-11T06:48:00.000-08:002020-11-11T06:48:38.979-08:00ACE ESC: ACE-NX (inline wiring version) 1.0<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Progress on the ACE-NX project has involved mostly ditching the bs_nfet_noninverting pinout and rethinking all the MCU pin assignments.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Gate, enable and nFault signals for the driver are all moved together and in order with the 6EDL04 driver pinout.</li><li>Throttle input uses ICP like Afro, not INT0 like bs_nfet. This kills some jitter and half the interrupt overhead associated with INT0. Also makes the throttle routing much better.</li><li>Phase voltage sense lines moved together.</li></ul><p>However: <br /></p><p><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7120CV9gbRU/X6vmcVQPVUI/AAAAAAAAEuk/2PFMdapij0Y9mu8yftmgDyakyMEMikbtQCLcBGAsYHQ/s934/nx1.0wipfront.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="540" data-original-width="934" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7120CV9gbRU/X6vmcVQPVUI/AAAAAAAAEuk/2PFMdapij0Y9mu8yftmgDyakyMEMikbtQCLcBGAsYHQ/s600/nx1.0wipfront.jpg" width="600" /> </a></p><p>I also designed another board that was not what I was and am
eventually intending (the mountable one), rather it's another ESC style
unit. It's a combination of there probably being market demand for
inline-wired boards like this, and me needing them for the T19 which I am not going to simply be replacing entirely anytime soon, and the fact that regardless of anything, since I DO want to start selling ESCs, I am either going to sell a modern driver-equipped board OR I am going to sell LC2s. So, it was time for the discrete drive to go and the LC2's beef shortages to be beefed, with the future of bigger motors and higher voltage DC busses in mind.<br /></p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SGMA4tU1GiU/X6vq7mi9TuI/AAAAAAAAEu0/tal5HfLTxeYX81p1qcQCg7D5FeFoigP3wCLcBGAsYHQ/s936/nx1.0wipback.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="544" data-original-width="936" height="372" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SGMA4tU1GiU/X6vq7mi9TuI/AAAAAAAAEu0/tal5HfLTxeYX81p1qcQCg7D5FeFoigP3wCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h372/nx1.0wipback.jpg" width="640" /></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Which they have. The NX Inline is 1mm wider than the LC2 (26mm, same as Afro FS20), has beefier source connections on the lowside than the LC2, is busbar ready (use solid wire) and has significantly more highside device copper area/heatsinking even before adding a busbar.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Other improvements on the LC2 include revised FET footprints, all ISP pads in one place, plus the usual SimonK ready and warning LEDs, because blinkenlights. Also, the sense network may have finally received some due consideration. I tried to shove it to the opposite side of the board from all the noise sources like the DC bus path to the caps, and the SMPS. Something about sense networks is that the phase node, since it is directly connected to the motor, is mega low impedance, that's likely not what is going to receive noise. It's the node after the first resistor in the divider and of course the neutral. Those in my past boards had some long convoluted traces mixed in with the rest of the MCU-related traces and that is not good. With this one the resistors are right next to the associated MCU pin, the other ground resistor is directly underneath on the other side, neutral routing is very direct and the trace lengths are minimal. Will be seen whether these are cleaner starter-uppers than LC2s, it may just turn out to not matter.<br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Gate drive supply is from an AP3012. This uses a linear logic supply due to area and the lack of more good places away from sensitive stuff like the MCU oscillator and sense network to put a switching noise source without this board either getting bigger or being a pain in the ass. It is minimum 0805, as this is going to be the new general-purpose "not
mini" ESC board and it is important that it not be a pain in the ass for
either me or other people to make. Bootstrap caps, LDO input cap, boost input and output caps and driver 12V decoupling cap are all 1206. Also, it uses 40x20mil vias
(mainly, for power stage reasons) which should eliminate fab issues as
well with drill size. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Voltage rating depends on LDO and FETs. This can take a few different 40V devices and there are several 42 and 45V SOT-223 LDOs (the one I normally use is 40V) to correspond.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">A bit of an erratum is that I post-schematic'd 3 0805 resistor footprints into this for pulldowns to ground on the lowside gates. Granted, every single FET/IGBT driver datasheet, board design and application note I have ever seen says nothing of the need for them, but to me, it just stands to reason that since the driver datasheets often don't give any indication that the output stage is NOT high-impedance with NO power to the chip, OR that there are any internal pulldowns on those gates, something bad could potentially happen at startup where the DC bus comes up a tad before the power rails to the chip do. So, I figure putting 100K or so (so as not to load the driver with much extra current) on the low sides to source will be a good safety measure against the chance that somehow, some gates are charged up when power is applied and cause a brief shoot-through. Probably just total design overkill.<br /></div>torukmakto4http://www.blogger.com/profile/10734470012890561585noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7793811623191911228.post-83208006071235929502020-11-02T11:12:00.000-08:002020-11-02T11:12:23.428-08:00S-Core firmware 0.97: Add nonvolatile user flywheel speed profiles<p>In the past I envisioned most blasters being run by default at full permitted velocity. If the game mandated less than the flywheel system's critical velocity for safety, that would normally be set with the tournament lock. Of course it would - if you can change it on the field, how could it ever be legal? However, by numbers, most games are quite casual and their playerbases quite mature, and they do not impose the use of the tournament lock, hence the typical usage pattern of adjustable-speed T19 in the wild is that players leave their tournament locks maxxed out and dial their blaster up on the chrono in user speed mode before playing.</p><p><br />This usage of the user speed adjustment mode with no means to save the resulting setting presents a number of problems. One, you have to dial the thing on the chrono <i>every time</i>. Two, if you shut down your blaster for any reason, you just lost your velocity setting. Three, you can't switch between canned velocity settings.<br /></p><p><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1czPJ6wRAeR365x6zpS-CtlbzdjfZ84LU/view?usp=sharing">https://drive.google.com/file/d/1czPJ6wRAeR365x6zpS-CtlbzdjfZ84LU/view?usp=sharing </a><br /></p><p>So I made a quick tweak that uses the selector position at boot time to choose a user-defined speed setting in EEPROM to either load (normal boot) or save to (speed config mode). As such, you can dial each in once and next time you want to use that setting, just put the selector in the requisite position before powering up.</p><p><br />Attempting to load a speed setting that is invalid or above the current tournament lock setting will throw a non-terminal Code 53, then save the current tournament lock setting to that profile, and begin normal operation. This will happen if you try to use a setting that has never been saved to (such as just after flashing), or if you try to use an old setting that is now higher than the tournament lock after lowering the tournament lock setting.<br /></p>torukmakto4http://www.blogger.com/profile/10734470012890561585noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7793811623191911228.post-19022062638836003002020-10-31T18:47:00.000-07:002020-10-31T18:47:11.017-07:00Build: "ZombieStrike" T19E1 Shorty<p>This blaster is being donated to a local nerfer who lost a bunch of gear in a fire. He wanted a Gamma shorty and a variant of ZombieStrike scheme.</p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QAhE1U8tds4/X54OyDC7qII/AAAAAAAAEt4/xXkexBvaLiIx96Qk4VELf5jzf5peO918ACLcBGAsYHQ/s2476/IMG_4148.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1017" data-original-width="2476" height="262" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QAhE1U8tds4/X54OyDC7qII/AAAAAAAAEt4/xXkexBvaLiIx96Qk4VELf5jzf5peO918ACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h262/IMG_4148.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rZOL0_Ryyb8/X54OyrpI9NI/AAAAAAAAEuA/JP9zbBGjggMDyag8qq6ydBo57ncTDURBACLcBGAsYHQ/s1949/IMG_4149.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1096" data-original-width="1949" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rZOL0_Ryyb8/X54OyrpI9NI/AAAAAAAAEuA/JP9zbBGjggMDyag8qq6ydBo57ncTDURBACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h360/IMG_4149.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p><br />It has the usual control gear: S-Core 1.5 and a pair of ACE LC2.</p><p>It is fitted with Turnigy V-Spec motors, and I'm fixing to swap one of them out before it departs because <i>of course</i> one has some extra drag torque. These days with closed-loop feed control it's not like that even matters any more. But, gotta get rid of those dissonant spindown sounds. Turnigies sound so damn good among all flywheel motors when they are right.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U8bEIMmscp0/X54Ow8MLfSI/AAAAAAAAEto/LrUL9uT9SkoPRChMl3tMORx-psxa0VMvACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_4136.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1530" data-original-width="2048" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U8bEIMmscp0/X54Ow8MLfSI/AAAAAAAAEto/LrUL9uT9SkoPRChMl3tMORx-psxa0VMvACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h478/IMG_4136.JPG" width="640" /> </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Filament colors: Yoyi green, Makeshaper cool grey (may be obsolete) Makeshaper orange. The Yoyi green is absolutely as neon and great as it looks through a camera. Much like ZombieStrike green.<br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><img border="0" data-original-height="1530" data-original-width="2048" height="299" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DSQwmHMtesw/X54OyZEKLkI/AAAAAAAAEt8/F_mSbogGjpcD6tCcmWeMoRKoLjWi9ilNACLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h299/IMG_4147.JPG" width="400" /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OhilpcgnPlE/X54OygAFkCI/AAAAAAAAEuE/Gt4mCoQZ1MIurlFEO47w1f6mTdgXUipMQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_4146.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1530" data-original-width="2048" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OhilpcgnPlE/X54OygAFkCI/AAAAAAAAEuE/Gt4mCoQZ1MIurlFEO47w1f6mTdgXUipMQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h478/IMG_4146.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tMgzPW59VU4/X54Oxb_pLSI/AAAAAAAAEt0/DE1C1mzr_BMsAON4ZkYSzTEiLw8t97mmQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2488/IMG_4145.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1141" data-original-width="2488" height="294" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tMgzPW59VU4/X54Oxb_pLSI/AAAAAAAAEt0/DE1C1mzr_BMsAON4ZkYSzTEiLw8t97mmQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h294/IMG_4145.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iDcuKZ-SVdc/X54OxN7MbUI/AAAAAAAAEts/rvqUX9ZVs0svD0KJRq9jR_g-jMZUmeTEACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_4139.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1158" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iDcuKZ-SVdc/X54OxN7MbUI/AAAAAAAAEts/rvqUX9ZVs0svD0KJRq9jR_g-jMZUmeTEACLcBGAsYHQ/w226-h400/IMG_4139.JPG" width="226" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BGEJwwun8dY/X54Owe0wwcI/AAAAAAAAEtk/S0c9KN1DE5gJ6mslb9j6rdejI0SLiCepQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2592/IMG_4138.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1160" data-original-width="2592" height="286" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BGEJwwun8dY/X54Owe0wwcI/AAAAAAAAEtk/S0c9KN1DE5gJ6mslb9j6rdejI0SLiCepQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h286/IMG_4138.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-B2WsjTj1o68/X54OxF4FCpI/AAAAAAAAEtw/7Vds4B8b3v4bQpF2_U8rR-4icf9h23kzQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_4137.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1194" data-original-width="2048" height="374" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-B2WsjTj1o68/X54OxF4FCpI/AAAAAAAAEtw/7Vds4B8b3v4bQpF2_U8rR-4icf9h23kzQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h374/IMG_4137.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><br />torukmakto4http://www.blogger.com/profile/10734470012890561585noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7793811623191911228.post-23972488265101376622020-10-29T17:47:00.003-07:002020-10-29T17:47:38.872-07:00Some electronics WIPs; motor drives and S-Core display module.<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">I have lately had 3, possibly 4, projects in the pipeline.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">One is this motor drive, which has been internally called ACE-NX.<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PfyTRsOf0IA/X5tH9PnBvzI/AAAAAAAAEs8/dbv4FbPHODQRrEoYWiq1Fqw3Rr5_dJTGQCLcBGAsYHQ/s868/AceNXPreliminary.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="357" data-original-width="868" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PfyTRsOf0IA/X5tH9PnBvzI/AAAAAAAAEs8/dbv4FbPHODQRrEoYWiq1Fqw3Rr5_dJTGQCLcBGAsYHQ/s600/AceNXPreliminary.jpg" width="600" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Key ideas here:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>No more "ESC" stuff with the inline wiring, caps sticking off the end of the board, shrink wrap, ... Instead, this takes a more ground vehicle/robotics/industrial approach. Mounting holes, like the S-Core board. Phases and DC input wires emerge vertically out of the board. Cap cans are also mounted vertically through-hole (note big pads for thermal contact to solder those, since there is no relief on the pads for impedance purposes).</li><li>The idea with the packaging of this is to design it into future blasters rather than to fit existing ones, since now there hasn't even been a supposition of using off the shelf drone ESCs in blasters for over a year and that paradigm is kinda meh.<br /></li><li>Return to the "sandwich inverter" bus structure and power device layout, from the ACE-LC1 and Protoverter.</li><li>Set up to be easily built as multi-voltage. This uses a 60V rated buck converter (LMR16006) to drop logic power off the bus. The powerstage can be populated with various 60V LFPAK56 devices to correspond and so forth for the DC link caps; hence this can support bus voltages up to approximately 10S, conservatively. The buswork is also very beefy, and this board would make a good super-low RDs(on) current monster using fets like the PSMN0R9.</li><li>Infineon 6EDL04 gate driver.</li><li>Has the S-Core style logic power input de-sagger/negative transient remover, albeit with a smaller 8mm cap footprint for the reservoir cap to save some space.</li><li>Has (optional) TVS across the bus at the power supply section to further safeguard the first DC/DC converter from spikes.</li><li>12V gate drive level derived from 5V rail by AP3012 boost converter. Typical transient-robust approach to buck then boost, though I probably could get away with 2 parallel bucks instead, given the input filter on this thing.<br /></li><li>Standard ICSP header, just plug in a ISP device and flash, no soldering to pads. <br /></li></ul>This was my first crack at it after being rusty and not designing any boards for a while. Also, I used minimum 0805 and some way larger trace/space than I could have, plus the big 20x40mil vias that I always used in my past boards like the LC2. Also, I tried out keeping roughly the bs_nfet pinouts and not shuffling my MCU pin assignments around to get the lane between that and the driver to work better hence a lot of contortion going on under the MCU. Still, it ended up at 25x62mm, the same width and shorter than a fully dressed LC2 with cap and wiring. That's promising, at least, but I will nevertheless set this file aside and cook one more PCB before this is over.<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Jd8YXkTLVfI/X5tH9OcfghI/AAAAAAAAEs4/Jstg7BNxwy8QppzThZeVLkfRQXu_9VEdACLcBGAsYHQ/s865/AceNXtopprelim.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="356" data-original-width="865" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Jd8YXkTLVfI/X5tH9OcfghI/AAAAAAAAEs4/Jstg7BNxwy8QppzThZeVLkfRQXu_9VEdACLcBGAsYHQ/s600/AceNXtopprelim.jpg" width="600" /> </a> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Also worth mentioning the improved LFPAK footprints I'm trying out with this round (for hand soldering, not reflow obviously) and the return of the Afro's familiar blinkenlights. Anyway, this sort of thing is the future for my blasters, pretty much.<br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Next one, a simple discrete drive ESC style one with a 3.3mm (LFPAK33) powerstage, all 0603 except the Vcc bulk cap and bootstrap caps, SOT-89 linear reg. This should be a useful handy little thing. 18x40mm.<br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sBKbR1N2yhY/X5tXkqpoCqI/AAAAAAAAEtI/Ec8NQ5b_BpMZIhERMQdSjZdZC7NF4NZKQCLcBGAsYHQ/s566/LC_mini_back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="264" data-original-width="566" height="298" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sBKbR1N2yhY/X5tXkqpoCqI/AAAAAAAAEtI/Ec8NQ5b_BpMZIhERMQdSjZdZC7NF4NZKQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h298/LC_mini_back.jpg" width="640" /></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I made sure to use the MiniMELF compatible footprints for those
bootstrap diodes this time round, the glass ones are so much less <i>boring</i> than
SOD-123s. Also, Nexperia seems to have recently replaced the
PSMN2R4-30MLH[X] with a PSMN1R6 part, which if you dig the Nexperia FET
part number's logic, is a 1.6mohm nominal part. The 5x6mm device used in
the ACE-LC2 is 1.4 (Hell, most of the losses are switching and diode
conduction anyway at that point), and with the intended addition of solid
wire or bars down those completely-unmasked bus traces, there should be enough cooling on them that this
board can run all the usual 2205-ish motors without a hitch while also
being smaller than LC2, Afro, Spider and friends.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fmXpY3S_GyA/X5tXkteWqkI/AAAAAAAAEtM/bv-WzvSCSBQVa9sb0BPTf7GsB-ODWAkEQCLcBGAsYHQ/s566/LC_mini_front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="261" data-original-width="566" height="296" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fmXpY3S_GyA/X5tXkteWqkI/AAAAAAAAEtM/bv-WzvSCSBQVa9sb0BPTf7GsB-ODWAkEQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h296/LC_mini_front.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And the last: a display module for the S-Core.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1wApxUBOlMA/X5tXk_uRIxI/AAAAAAAAEtg/mz6aZRZt5FEDQMTVecndRfxvCBJ1zbE2wCPcBGAYYCw/s795/SCDMfront.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="284" data-original-width="795" height="228" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1wApxUBOlMA/X5tXk_uRIxI/AAAAAAAAEtg/mz6aZRZt5FEDQMTVecndRfxvCBJ1zbE2wCPcBGAYYCw/w640-h228/SCDMfront.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pU2CWJPHpB0/X5tXknCCZfI/AAAAAAAAEtc/y_kO6WdCsl81Korjibpg1mzueflv5O6WQCPcBGAYYCw/s794/SCDMback.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="282" data-original-width="794" height="228" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pU2CWJPHpB0/X5tXknCCZfI/AAAAAAAAEtc/y_kO6WdCsl81Korjibpg1mzueflv5O6WQCPcBGAYYCw/w640-h228/SCDMback.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Of course one route is the usual Arduino style thing with Chinese OLED modules or LCD and be all modern and graphicky, but that is... simultaneously way overkill for just a blaster, and not kill enough to be worthy of a blaster, so in usual DZ fashion I took a more old school/hi-rel/vaguely industrial route with 5 cells of 0.2" LED 7 segment driven by a string of 74HCS595 chips. These things are slated to plug into the programming header on the S-Core board, which conveniently has power, ground, and 3 pins usable as digital I/O during runtime on one connector and avoids tying up the other ADC capable GPIO expansion connector on the board. The data line is bidirectional for that user button. As to that, this board and its design probably warrants another post so I will save it for that.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The possible 4th project is to replace the LC2 with a 6EDL04 driven, switchmode logic power, version of the same sorta-thing. With 0603 and 10/10mil it should be possible. I already mocked up a take on it way back on here, so no big deal.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The 5th is more unknown. Maybe a single-board blaster solution, maybe a driver-equipped version of the Mini above... or a 2 channel version with switchmode logic power. Or maybe a battery protection/management module that I have been wanting to do.<br /></div>torukmakto4http://www.blogger.com/profile/10734470012890561585noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7793811623191911228.post-29678403946271933792020-10-29T15:49:00.000-07:002020-10-29T15:49:37.967-07:00PSA: What if someone takes down their files?<a href="https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/4.0/">https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/4.0/</a>:<p style="margin-left: 40px; text-align: left;"><i>You are free to:</i></p><ul style="margin-left: 40px; text-align: left;"><li><i>Share - copy and <u><b>redistribute</b></u> the material in any medium or format</i></li><li><i>Adapt - remix, transform, and build upon the material</i></li></ul><div style="margin-left: 40px; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><u><b><i>The licensor cannot revoke these freedoms as long as you follow the license terms.</i></b></u></span><br /></div><p></p><p> </p><p><a href="https://creativecommons.org/faq/#what-if-i-change-my-mind-about-using-a-cc-license">https://creativecommons.org/faq/#what-if-i-change-my-mind-about-using-a-cc-license</a></p><p style="margin-left: 40px; text-align: left;"><b><i>What if I change my mind about using a CC license?</i></b></p><p style="margin-left: 40px; text-align: left;"><i><br /><u><b>CC licenses are not revocable. Once something has been published under a CC license, licensees may continue using it according to the license terms for the duration of applicable copyright and similar rights. As a licensor, you may stop distributing under the CC license at any time, </b><b>but anyone who has access to a copy of the material may continue to redistribute it under the CC license terms.</b></u> </i><br /></p><p> </p><p>Most cases, are similar.</p><p>You, nerfer, have a moral obligation to the sanctity and continuity of our knowledge; which is the only true higher purpose or end that any of this stuff we do can ever achieve. Now, serve your duty to protect it.</p><p>You, designer, do not take your files down. Not only is it naive to expect the community to go along with your attempt to un-pull that trigger and un-shoot that bullet, but attempting to operate outside and beyond the terms of the (strictly irrevocable) license and pressure/guilt trip people into not exercising their rights under said license (like posting copies, because you don't want it up anymore, for instance) is not kosher in any way.<br /></p>torukmakto4http://www.blogger.com/profile/10734470012890561585noreply@blogger.com0