Friday, May 8, 2020

T19E1: Product-improving the T19 system

T19 really needed some TLC. Some had already happened, such as the new stock parts, but multiple things had stacked up that needed addressing:
  • Motor options currently extant needed multiplexing across the long and short barrel cages.
  • The now tested Racerstar BR2207S variant of the Delta (long barrel) cage and associated parts needed releasing anyway.
  • The short barrel (Gamma) cage just needed to be totally redrawn.
  • Short darts needed to be tested and natively supported, and one project to do that created a short dart breech and began evaluating Talon mags.
  • Electronics were, but eventually stopped being, in flux. The S-Core 1.5 board mounting pattern then needed to be added to the drive housing.
  • Top rails needed attention. A sourcing issue with the original part showed its ugly head and the rapidly multiplying number of cages and breeches also now required an extensible solution.
  • Everything needed to be reorganized, deprecated part versions axed, and everything concisely released.
  • STEPs needed to be generated for all old parts for which they were missing.
I started on this with the shorty breech and top rails, then the cages, and it ended up becoming a major cleanup and restructuring and a lot of small tweaks to the majority of parts.

The Gamma Major cage was totally redrawn (revision 3).



Emax RS2205S, Racerstar BR2207S and Turnigy V-Spec 2205 are now supported for all cages.

A blank version of the Gamma and Delta mains with all non-motor-relevant features in place have been created, for speedy and easy motor deployment by me, and there is a STEP of each blank for DIY motor options (You will need to design a flywheel and pick or mod the appropriate cover and associated bits).

The new Gamma features truncated groove fillers, as do all the new cages. Trimming nonfunctional regions of the groove filler, especially on the Delta variants, makes getting rotating assemblies in place less fiddly. The crown of the barrel has been radiused on all mains and covers to eliminate swelling of the corner and manual crowning of barrels. All formerly unbroken edges (mostly edges which butt up against another part to form one surface when assembled) that go on the bed when printed have been chamfered with 0.5mm to attempt to eliminate any "elephant foot" burr.

All cages have underbarrel rails as a standard feature. The Deltas have always had an accompanying rail with a nice round transition piece into the magwell front built in. The Gamma has had a rail option for a while too, but I don't think anyone has noticed its presence aside from Junior7 of CFDW who caused its creation.

As to short darts, this occurred.


This is an old school fixed speed, delay controlled, full auto only unit that was sitting around. Results were unexpectedly positive with Worker Talonmags. And what a handy sweetie little gun.


The formerly prototype short dart breech has been adopted effectively as-is as it needed no revisions. Elephant foot prevention has been added, new top rail bolt patterns have been added, and the new stronger 6 bolt breech flange pattern is also supported (note upper bolt holes). The flanges on this newly designed breech have been thickened versus the old full length part. A partial depth counterbore is provided on the lower bolt holes where the bolt head is exposed, for the primary purpose of full depth thread engagement with an off the shelf fastener and secondary purpose of having the bolt heads be less protrusive.

Uses the stock bolt. The fact that the bolt stroke of the stock 19 drivetrain with this puts the bolt tip almost into the flywheels might be a factor in reliability - the bolt occupying the space where a round just was at the top of the mag would help prevent stack tilting, and the excess motion would help to drag the rounds backward on the return stroke and keep dart tips from scrubbing on the front and sticking. So care will be taken if destroking the drivetrain is ever a factor, to see if that in itself raises issues (it is a variable in my last unsuccessful short dart evaluations not with a T19). Any case, combat trials pending, this setup blazes through mags just fine.

The caliber marking was only there originally as an experiment on the prototype short breech to see if I could get text that small and the answer was very much yes. Decided to leave it on because 12.7x36mmK is cooler than nothing or just "short" or something.


The short breech's mag release is designed to use the original mag release spring and fit the original spring seat and clearance pocket in the drive housing.

Now is a good time to talk about remaining work to be done. The original full length breech model was lost years ago along with grip baseplate and grip panels and no clean solid models of these damn things actually exist. All of them really, really just need to be binned and redrawn.

When it comes to the full length breech, that will get an angle-cut and chamfered magwell like the shorty version, and the use of feed lip tops as the overinsertion stop instead of relying on the ridge on standard full length mags, also like the shorty version.

However, I slapped a fresh coat of paint on the original style breech (de-elephant-footing, added the extra 2 breech flange bolt holes, chamfered some stuff that was sharp, added fillets to reduce stress concentration some places, added the caliber marking, the new top rail bolt pattern, shaved the uncomfortable bit of the magwell fence on the front of the magwell) and called it good for now.


With the grip base, not much reason to redraw it just to get a cleaner solid model, but the grip panels have always been a stopgap anyway and making some nicer smoother rounder grip scales for the 19 frame has always been on the list so there is that.

The drive housing now has the extra 2 breech flange bolt holes seen in the above parts.


This and the beefing of all new design breech flanges and cage flanges is a preemptive response to the unfortunate Naptown FDL-3 incident, as although T19s were already quite rugged, this particular joint was probably the weakest in the whole system. The extra bolts help spread out the load on the breech flange and give more thread strength in the drive housing.


S-Core 1.5 board mounting bosses have been added to the drive housing. A fifth nonthreaded support is in the center to prevent board flex when plugging in connectors. The S-Core board sits lower than the original boards did giving a bit more cable space, which will be welcome on the shorty setups where inverters have to be the drive housing. Elephant foot prevention has been added to the drive housing.


It has also been added to the spacer. Some corners in the spacer internal geometry are radiused. The edge in front of the limit switch has had a large ramp cut into it to address certain roller lever switches with loose levers and a protruding rivet potentially getting hung up, which has resulted in many spacers up till this having this feature ground in by hand when a certain switch was offending in this regard.


Perhaps the most visible external change of the E1 parts is that the new top cover has continued the "edge milled off at 45 degrees" chamfer motif from the Delta parts. Transitioning from the chamfered edge into stuff that cannot have a big chamfer there (for instance, cage mains, and anything to do with breeches since there are conflicting bolt holes) is inevitably either odd looking or a bit abrupt, but this above approach looks way more natural once assembled than it does just looking at the part.


New top rail patterns have been added to the cover. The top of the cover is now slightly thicker. The pocket into the cover forming the bolt rails and crank pin clearance has been smoothed out. The back part where nothing needs to be around the rail bolt holes is left solid all the way through as it is better to infill this with the slicer than cut it out of the model.

Now for the top rails. The original AIM Sports aluminum rails used on early T19 have apparently silently changed sometime between 2017 and now, which I didn't realize (it probably isn't a high velocity item so they would have lingered in the supply chain for years before selling) but in the end, I somehow ended up with a few of the same item that are clearly a slightly different part and have an incompatible bolt pattern. So... To hell with outside vendors for rails. The aluminum rail is nice, but after testing and experimenting with printing rails, that's not a problem. 5 perimeters 100% infill.

There arises a problem from the length of a full length top rail for the Delta cage setups not fitting on most printer beds, and then a further complication is that there are now 2 cages and 2 breeches, and there may be several more cages and several more breeches created in the near future.

Hence, this system. The rail is 2 piece. The front segments are associated with cages, the rear with breeches. This keeps things simple enough to deal with.


Gamma cage front.


Delta front.


Full length rear.


Shorty rear.

As a final option, there is a one-piece 3 bolt top rail for shorty breech, Gamma cage setups only. (It will also bolt up to a Delta and a shorty breech, since the same front hole is also present in the Delta cage, but isn't full length down the top of the cage, much like Deltas with full length breeches and aluminum rails.)




This rail exists because there are existing guns which may be converted to shorty, which have Gamma cages and bricktop drive covers with only the 2 10-24 threaded holes. This retrofits those setups without changing the cage main or the drive cover. The addition of one more bolt into the breech deals with the flexibility since the rail is polymer instead of aluminum. This rail is also a fine choice for these combos in new build as it removes a part and a joint and a few fasteners versus using the 2 requisite pieces from the 2-piece rail set.

The other setups are just too long to be reasonable to have one-piece top rails for.

Here's a configuration I suspect is going to be very popular among locals for comp and I already like based on my short dart testbed setup's compact size and wieldiness.



Priorities for the future are to do proper release notes for these parts, an updated build guide, and put up some electronics bundles for sale. (Don't get too excited and don't print preemptively if you know for a fact you can't or won't DIY your control gear and you aren't local to me. I really just can't build everyone a kit. I don't have time or desire to mass produce them.) Overall what this is going toward is leaving T19 in something of a final form for when the inevitable leaned-out vertical slim successor steals all the thunder and the design attention, but that isn't to say I have any intention of sunsetting T19 even then. It has a lot of stuff left to go. Lots of motors to try out, lots of local players to arm, lots of Stryfes, Caliburns and FDLs to eliminate. 2 stage .50 cal cages are coming very soon. Conversion to 20mm Mega is also a plan just for the hell of it.

Monday, May 4, 2020

S-Core 1.5 RELEASE; build notes.

The other half of my blaster management solution:



Gerbers

BOM

Firmware (Use the latest version)


The render is a good reference for component placements:

Substitutions and second-sources should be fairly obvious.

The only really notable thing is the DRV8825 being an exposed pad package. The pad must be solidly soldered down in order to thermally connect the device to the copper on the board, which is the primary heatsink. To allow that to be achieved without reflow equipment, there is an unmasked pad on the other side of the board directly under the chip. I generally do these by applying a large amount of flux on the pad and into the vias, soldering the legs down first, then using an 80 watt Weller iron with a large chisel tip to heat and apply solder from the back of the board. The solder will wick down the 20mil vias and wet the pad quickly. Flux is critical, you cannot use enough flux. A trick when doing these is to rest a finger on the top side of the chip while heating from the back. When the temperature on top the package suddenly spikes, you know that the pad has flowed and has thermal contact to the ground planes on both sides. Give it maybe one more second after you can no longer touch it to ensure the pad is wetted, but careful not to cook your DRV8825. I do use a light dimmer on my 80 watt iron - what you want is a massive thermal capacity iron with a massive tip, not a high temperature.

There is an optional TVS diode footprint which is across the DC bus. You would want to use a device with a clamping voltage of approximately 36-40V as 40V is the absolute maximum rating of the AOZ1282.

C11 is the DC link cap for the pusher motor drive and should be a 220uF or larger low-ESR cap. C15 is the filter cap for the logic power supply. It doesn't need to be and perhaps even should not be a low-ESR cap as this results in a larger inrush spike and stresses D2 more at power-up (not that D2 is not specced to handle that anyway). I have specified the appropriate varieties of caps in the BOM.

To flash these, plug in your USBasp or other AVR ISP device to the 6 pin ISP header, open the firmware in Arduino IDE, select Arduino Pro or Pro Mini (ATmega328P, 5V/16MHz), select "Burn bootloader to board" (which is just a convenient way to initially set the fuses; the bootloader itself is not used and will be clobbered by the next step) and then do an "Upload using programmer" (Shift-Upload). Thereafter for firmware updates, you can simply open the firmware in Arduino IDE, be sure that the 5V/16MHz Arduino Pro Mini target is selected, plug in and do an "Upload using programmer".

Note on setting Vref


Measure from the right testpoint with "VREF" next to it to any ground pin, DC bus ground, or a screw hole. (Do not measure between the two testpoints.) The left testpoint next to the Vref trimpot on this board is the DRV8825's onboard 3.3V regulator output.

Thursday, April 9, 2020

S-Core firmware 0.96 - fix unintended trigger trap when full auto and decelerateBoltToSwitch() (etc.)

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1cRn7ZAxHbe2abdRy1m3IFjliANBaALVl

This fixes a bug in which


  • firing full auto
  • releasing the trigger momentarily overlapping with a trigger polling event, thus initiating drivetrain deceleration in preparation for firing to end
  • pulling the trigger again during the deceleration

-would incorrectly be trapped by the disconnector and do nothing until the trigger was reset, as if it were a continuing trigger-down state after a burst or semi shot has been fired. This little death slot could be found when thrashing a blaster with "stop and go" type input on full auto. Plenty of players may make inputs like this, including me, under pressure.

Wednesday, April 8, 2020

ESC Project: ACE-LC v2.0 ("ACE 2") - RELEASE and Build Notes

Gerbers

BOM of my exact build (generated by Digikey)

Component list with most generic/second sourcing info

2oz copper is required.

Most everything is quite obvious. However, due to the packing density, the silkscreens tend to be unreadable (at least on my batch of boards) for a lot of the passives. Hence these images may be helpful for quick reference:


Front side has 2 100R gate resistors R7 and R10, the sense network comprising six 18K 0.1% resistors R17-22 and three 3.3K 0.1% resistors R23-25, and 3 MCU decoupling caps C1, C2 and C9.

Note that there is an option for decoupling capacitor C9 if you want to overengineer this by using a 1uF to have a typical wideband decoupling network with caps an order of magnitude apart. I have some 1uF 0805s sitting around so I have been using them there.

Also, watch out for which way those bootstrap diodes are pointing. The topmost one has the cathode pointing up. The other two are pointing down. Similarly when soldering, the back to back anodes are shorted together/the same pad on the top two so it is OK if that is a single solder mass right there, but the pads between the bottom two diodes are not connected, do not let them get bridged.

Another quick note. The low side DC bus where it comes up to the source pins through the vias - the solder mask has been removed here so these vias can be filled in with solder for better thermal/electrical performance. Similarly, on the backside, there is an unmasked strip on that bus trace, you can tin that or put a wire or bar there if you want. And obviously, the motor phase wires go on the 3 pads on the front side without vias. The ones with the vias are just ground.


Back side has logic power and high side gate drivers, the rest of the 100R gate resistors R5, 6, 8 and 9, 10K low side gate pulldown resistors R2-4, 10K RESET pullup resistor R1 and yet ANOTHER MCU decoupling cap C3 (0.1uF).

R11-13 are the ballast resistors in the discrete drive circuit, the ones that need some awareness of power rating. Those should be a 0.4W or other similarly rated part. R14-16 are just base resistors for Q1-3, the only reason they end up being the same part in my design is BOM reuse, the 0.4W 1.6K resistor is cheap enough that it is better/easier/faster to stick them there than add another part.

C8 (1206) in my build is a 47uF tantalum. This is not strictly necessary that it is either 47uF or tantalum as long as you use a LDO that is stable with whatever cap you place there. However, I recommend a high capacitance tant there to be sure about stable vcc. The C7 should be a fairly big ceramic to decouple the LDO such as 4.7uF.

After building, cleaning and inspecting, wire up your AVR ISP device of choice (I use a USBasp) to the ISP pads:


  • Ground is in the throttle cable pads.
  • MOSI is the tach pad in the throttle cable pads.
  • MISO is next to the MCU.
  • RESET is next to the oscillator.
  • SCK is on the backside of the board right under the MCU.
  • VCC is next to the regulator.

And program. Do not use KKMulticopterFlashTool to burn brand new boards, if you have that tool. It will set the fuses incorrectly. Always set the fuses to the recommended values stated clearly in the SimonK source comments using avrdude i.e.:


  • avrdude -p m8 -c usbasp -U lfuse:w:0x3f:m -U hfuse:w:0xca:m


Then flash the firmware (found HERE) and remove ISP connections.

You can use KKMFT to flash after setting the fuses correctly if you like. Also note that the bootloader allows using a USB toolstick such as the Afro or Turnigy ones over the throttle cable once a board has been ISP-ed the first time.

These are a bs_nfet board and any bs_nfet firmware is suitable, but I would strongly recommend you stick with the linked binary or adjust/modify it to your needs. A post about this board and evolutions of my SimonK variant is upcoming which will cover this, but there are a few things to consider:

  • Switching times on these are better than the ACE LC1.
  • The MOSFETs used in these have faster, pseudo-Schottky body diodes (i.e. copack, protection or antiparallel diodes). This seems to make a difference in reliable sensorless performance.
  • I recently realized the existence of loss-localization mechanisms of the single-sided modulation strategy and that there are operating points for any non-complementary PWM situation (low voltage command and high phase current) where diode conduction losses go through the roof and result in unevenly high temp on the high-side devices. I have never cooked anything, but it just isn't necessary. This affects ALL boards, including for instance, Afros. (In the future, I will design all boards with the potential of this occurring with certain firmwares in mind i.e. disproportionate and excessive high-side device heatsinking.)

Thus:

  • I run these at POWER_RANGE = 856 for stock (nominal 17.8kHz) PWM carrier frequency. They run cool and hold sync robustly and do NOT require the 10kHz that is recommended on commercial hobby ESCs and is default on ACE1 boards. The benefit of this higher frequency is mostly that the carrier is inaudible for most people, whereas the 10kHz can be heard as a distinct PWM whine.
  • The startup mode half-frequency drop is NOT necessary for maximally reliable startup and sync holding on this board in my experience. I have it left in place, but turning it off removes a tiny moment of 8kHz whine when starting up from 0 rpm or while locked-rotor.
  • I have implemented a crude but effective selective complementary PWM mode which enables complementary modulation during all locked-rotor and 0 rpm start cases while being governor-compatible. Doing synchronous rectification during these specific situations greatly reduces, and greatly equalizes, device temps, causing this board to run quite cool under abuse. This is recommended on this board and all previous boards such as Afro.

N.b.: This build supports FlyShot for variable speed applications. It also defaults, for safety purposes, at boot to a governor setting of ~35,000erpm, or ~5000 mechanical rpm with 14 pole motors. If you have a fixed-speed application which doesn't support FlyShot, change the value at line 3351 (high byte) and 3352 (low byte) to the speed setting you want to run at. The governor setting is in TIMING_MAX * 8 format, same as what is sent in FlyShot frames.

Then install the DC link capacitor, DC bus input and motor phase wires and a signal cable. Here is a typical assembled unit:


Shrinkwrap this, ideally with PVC or PET shrink film tube (battery pack wrap or "layflat tubing"), being sure to support the capacitor with it to prevent flexing. I think what I have been using on most Afro-sized ESCs for shrinkwrapping is 40mm flat width, for reference. Leaving the board bare is inadvisable! Insulate it with something.

Tuesday, March 3, 2020

T19: Stock assembly revision 3, inverter cover minor printability fix, randoms.


A few product-improvement variety tweaks to the same old stock design that had been deferred since the early days.

One, I bothered to make a curved buttplate for it. Fits all T19 stocks.


Two, switch fences have been added.

I have never accidentally turned my blaster off in combat, but that would not be good.

This is a traditional strategy for guarding switches to prevent them from getting bumped and moved accidentally.


Three, the front edge of the stock body has been chamfered.

And four, the stock body and base have 10-24 counterbored SHCS holes to secure the 1" PVC buffer tube. Insert tube, align stock and base, mark/drill, tap, install fastener. No more friction only nor permanently Devconned stock assemblies where you replace 3 parts if one gets broken or you want to upgrade or mod one.

These inverter covers always had some trouble printing cleanly:


Take a close look at that bottom edge - it doesn't immediately look like a problem, but the fluting comes across the edge at a low angle and the resulting geometry FDMs only slightly better than flaming garbage. These always got some attention from a razor blade afterward and still tended to look like shit and have a horrid jagged edge. Drove me up the walls for over a year, but it's sometimes difficult to bother with minor things like that that have zero bearing on function whatsoever.

Now, there could be a lot done to smooth and de-brutalize the architecture and these covers are a great example, but that's not the idea here. I will do something to that effect as part of a larger remodel that is not strictly part of Model T19 at all, but T19 is what it is, and is going to continue being brutalistic.

Don't like it? Rant time. Design your own mod bits for it or reshell it yourself. I'm not your CAD slave.

The more flak and the more barf emojis on poisonous Discard channels I get about my style from certain toxic individuals who do not design blasters of this sort themselves, attempting to demand that I change my ways for them when they have no interest in running my equipment anyway; the more I shall stick to the brutalism - especially as locals who actually handle and shoot and look at these in person and are my actual customers as a designer besides my own use do not agree given how much demand I am getting. Let's make this clear, I have no tolerance for politics, and no tolerance for assholes, and trying to "community politic" me or being an asshole to me is not going to get anything whatsoever out of me especially when it's about something totally subjective.

The level of entitlement some people have in general toward open hardware/open source designers across the community who release ridiculous amounts of work for free is astounding. I know many of the same crowd dissing the 19 also attacked FDL Jesse for the FDL-2, do not try to deny that shit, and I know he was NOT happy about that either, and you should be ashamed to be a thorn in the side of multiple designers. Rant over.

Printability fix.


Straightforward matter of stopping those two fluting "toolpaths" a bit short to not bust through the edge. Problem solved.

I also started doing printability experiments with various orientations and types of 3D text/graphics on my setup/materials. I have always thought a lot of designers went over the top with text and logos and greeblies, and so I have long resisted spewing badges all over mine. One thing I will ALWAYS do is to release a complete set of badge/text-free part files for every blaster. But I at least want to know the limits and the results of printed-in badges, for more subtle and boring things like model/serial/build date tags if nothing else. So time to do some test parts.


I had had this DIRECTDRIVE badge thingy in mind for a while and it tested both positive and negative text oriented on the side of a part ortho to the bed, and it has some big horizontal overhangs and some fine little features... Good stress test.

Then there's this one:


Tacky and OTT perhaps, but at least one of my personal Things needs a proper snipe at DC motors plastered on the side. I have fond memories of a certain rental Yale reach truck at work that was, like my blasters, fully brushless, and had (you guessed it) these big, tacky, over the top AC POWER badges. These covers make a good test case for bridged negative features facing the bed, and are the most likely place to put "nameplate" type stuff. A lot of people do it on FDL-3 sideplates, but the outside surface on those is a top layer.

Liking the results of both. Pretty much as it came off the machine, haven't even picked out any strings or blobs yet...


I'm surprised how well printing this doesn't fail. Sometimes, FDM is PFM.


And these come out nice and sharp too. Be mindful of elephant footing if you're going to do these sorts of things. Would really look nice as a multimaterial, obviously, if you wanted to do something less subtle like put your username there.


Silly stuff mostly. But the resolution is better than I expected and could easily resolve smaller text.

Wednesday, February 26, 2020

S-Core Firmware 0.95 - Home bolt with flywheels turning at low speed; more robust and snappier speed-based feed control.

Link

Changes:


  • Home bolt with flywheels turning (at default low speed)


The previous selftest routine reset the bolt at startup with the flywheels stopped. Occasionally, such as in the case where a stoppage or debris is present or the bolt is not homed but a loaded mag is present, this would mash something into stationary flywheels.

Now we wait until after the flywheel drive rotation check and run the wheels at low speed while homing to spit out anything that is accidentally fed. If something is fired inadvertently during this procedure, it is barfed out at about 36fps, so this is safe - assuming you have an ESC firmware with default minimum speed, which you should.

  • Improve speed-based feed control

A series of consecutive in-range tach readings (the number of which is still a build-time setting) are now required to initiate firing. This removes most possibility of enough randomly in-range pulses being received during the timeout window to fire when a drive is not actually at speed. This might happen during a stall condition while tach pulses may be clipped by start timeouts and/or there may be motor vibration which is capable of creating in-range tach pulses.

Offset margins and such have been revised slightly and control is a good bit snappier. Some perturbing of these settings may be called for to fine-tune velocity consistency, but it shoots pretty damn nicely with my Emax equipped primary.

03-04-20 Update: I have hotfixed some configuration parameters in this release. Posted as a Google Drive version, so should be transparent.


  • Set maximum flywheel RPM back to 25,510 since 26,000 is a deleterious overspeed for the Hy-Con and resulted in a decrease in mean velocity and an increase in velocity spread.
  • Make STC settings a bit more conservative since while it got consistent velocity at 50/25, how I had it set may have been edging toward not getting max velocity in lieu of snappiness in a few cases. This does expose the SimonK mid-speed transient response bug more as a slightly more delayed followup shot at certain speeds, but that's OK.

SimonK FlyShot (digital speed command, closed-loop) - Default to safe minimum speed on boot, etc.

Code (plus a precompiled bs_nfet.hex for ACE discrete drive and Spider boards, etc.)

Now defaults to ~35,000erpm (~5000rpm with 14 pole motors, or about 36 fps root speed on a standard Hy-Con) at boot time.

Also, the safety governor (safety here being from the ESC's perspective, meaning avoiding exceeding the frequency limit of the inverter control loop) has been set back to the stock TIMING_MAX = 0x0080 (312,500erpm) in this so this is now universal to high speed applications out of the box whereas me leaving it at 0x00e0 in the last one may have "gotcha'd" someone.

/u/matthewbregg had a good suggestion in this thread about defaulting to a low speed. I had been considering this type of feature, but this thread got me thinking about safety and failsafe control a bit more in general. Thus this, and the new velocity watchdog code on the S-Core's end.

It really makes sense just in general that a closed-loop drive doesn't try to spin to the moon if you haven't informed it of what speed it should go... Makes sense, right?

Some setups (very large wheels and high-velocity multistages in particular) could even conceivably be mechanically intolerant of overspeed. With ordinary BLDC configurations, that wouldn't happen, because the battery and motor kv would have been selected to avoid that, but with closed-loop configurations that are trying to have stiff speed regulation with a lot of available torque at some operating speed, it may very well be that there is enough bus voltage that reaching hazardous speeds and blowing shit up is possible if uncontrolled. My previous idea was that one would just set TIMING_MAX to an appropriate safety governor setting which removes the need for a default low speed in that regard, but in general, flashing ESCs to configure them is a pain in the ass and it is better to make a drive firmware be universal and live-configurable over the wire.

Bregg also implemented a version requiring identical FlyShot commands to be sent twice to apply a speed update, and this is a most excellent addition for applications that do not have speed feedback and cannot selftest their flywheel speeds, like most Ultracage setups and FDLs and whatnot. These variants are also compatible with my gear by nature, but the above code doesn't have that feature because I want a higher speed update rate and smoother speed adjustment when live-adjusting speed and it is not necessary to be that overzealous with speed feedback present. In any case, just like Dshot commands, one-time FlyShot commands should always be sent about 10 times anyway as a matter of course.

Wednesday, February 19, 2020

Hy-Con Delta Cage released - Long forend, support for Emax RS2205S.

With the Turnigy V-Spec getting scarce, it is time to option more motors. I also had some requests for longer barrels and more rail estate on the T19 platform.

Bird 1 and bird 2, let me introduce you both to this stone. Hy-Con model Delta:



All STEP and mesh files



This is equipped with a new motor option, Emax RS2205S. This, like most drone-market motors, is a threaded shaft motor.



It is widely available, torquey, not too expensive, and very axially short, which removes most of the bulges/stuff sticking out annoyingly that tend to be problems for thin-packaged horizontal cage rigs when transitioning over to threaded shaft motors from bolt-pattern motors. There are just some ~2mm tall hole plug heads on the bottom of the cover. These plugs result from keeping the old school cover dimensions, no real reason or rhyme to why I did it that way.


I do have plans to multiplex things a bit more between cage variants and motor options as I test and add more, but the Gamma Major short barrel cage really just needs a clean sheet redraw and some more polishing anyway. So for now, it's Gamma/Turnigy or Delta/Emax.


The wheel, being that this is a threaded shaft motor, has some new features.


Locating keys specific to the Emax are provided to fit into the rotor notches and allow the shaft to be held with the wheel for initial torquing of the nut.

This is a rotor OD piloted wheel and the shaft hole is a large clearance on the shaft to avoid overconstraint as usual.

A slight counterbore is provided to match a raised boss around the shaft on the rotor of the Emax motor and give full surface contact.

The ring of tiny holes is a toolpath control/selective infill feature to force the slicer to generate solid plastic in the web where the clamping load is applied.

A printable washer is used under the shaft nut to account for surplus unthreaded length. The web thickness is not increased unnecessarily (Ultracage) to this end as this has no structural purpose and adds a lot of inertia that might best be made optional. (Still, with how these run, I might slice wheels for them to add some more inertia anyway in the future.)

There are no left-hand threaded versions of this motor and they come with nylon insert locknuts, so don't go looking for a "CW and CCW pair" of them.

As per my usual design approach, this is a nonventilated wheel design. Excessive motor temperatures have not been a concern whatsoever.


I am not putting up anything except 9.5mm gap wheels with this and going forward. Closed-loop speed control completely removes the entire issue of "subcritical speed = bad" - subcritical with stiff speed regulation is actually a route to world class velocity consistency. The 9.5mm wheels turned down are easy on darts and very consistent.

Rails: Self explanatory.


Overall I am satisfied with the Emax RS2205S. It delivers a slight improvement in flywheel drive response versus the old Turnigies (which on the new control gear is automatically translated into a reduced feed delay without changing any settings! So much nicer than manual tuning) and is another, and more solid/trustworthy than the Turnigy, option but I don't quite like their "personality". They are modern, and aggressive, with N52 arc magnets, and tight airgaps. With so much field flux, the cogging torque is pretty gnarly, and they feel and sound more harsh. (They don't coast as well either - adjust your driveCoastTime down a bit if you have old world controls.) It's much like 3240s vs. XP180s in the old dark DC days. Sure, the latter has more torque and is objectively better, but the former feels... Happier. Same here, which is why for further motor options I am going to include some other motors with more Turnigy-like magnetics. The Racerstar BR2207S is one I already have on hand which is a sweet amazing sounding runner, and I will also be testing their BR2406S and perhaps BR2306S as all of these are cheap and plentiful.

Sunday, February 16, 2020

S-Core new firmware features: power-on selftest, flywheel overspeed detection.

Link up front

The source is the best documentation for the details, but selftest is very much no longer a placeholder. Overview of all checks in order:

Bolt drive system

  • Verify that the bolt can be homed as determined by the limit switch within one revolution. Issues with the limit switch fail, as do a drivetrain that has locked up/jammed with FOD or become disconnected from the motor, and inverter failure or an unplugged motor (obviously).

Trigger input

  • Verify that the state of the complementary trigger inputs is a valid high/low or low/high state corresponding to a switch up or down position, rather than a high/high or low/low state corresponding to a failed switch, a short, or a bad connection.

Flywheel drive system

  • Verify at least casually, without using interrupts, that tach lines sit at a stable logic state while motors are undriven. This avoids a race condition risk that is posed by enabling external interrupts if the tach line may have become connected or coupled to a high-frequency noise source or signal that was not anticipated.
  • Verify that each flywheel drive emits tach transitions within one timeout period when throttled. This catches drives that have become unplugged, don't have power or otherwise are totally inop or absent.
  • Verify that each flywheel drive can spin its motor past a minimum speed and keep it there for a minimum number of check cycles during the timeout. This finds seized motors, and typical single-phasings and partial inverter failures that may still move the motor but can't actually drive the motor to any speed.

Closed-loop speed control integrity

  • After setting and locking down the speed prior to entering normal operation (either by defaulting to the current tournament lock setting or by exiting the user speed configuration mode), spin up flywheels and verify that, within a timeout period:
    • No single tach periods indicative of critical overspeed events occur.
    • The noise-filtered speed of each drive falls within margins of the speed it ought to be set to for many consecutive check cycles.

Combined with an ESC firmware that defaults at its own boot to a very low speed setting, this one boot-time check renders some unforeseen signalling issue, drive reset or bug causing considerably hot velocity effectively impossible.

To report the results of these self-checks when they fail, the familiar construct of "fault codes" now shows up here. These consist of a "major" and "minor" component and are organized approximately by fault category or subsystem.

The stepper motor is conveniently useful as an audio/tactile feedback device. It is used to emit a (not too loud) alarm, then blip out the fault code responsible using "growls" (familiar to anyone who has turned on an old T19): first major, then 700ms of silence, then minor. Both values are always to be greater than 1, and I prefer that they be less than 9 for brevity.

So far there are only codes for selftest failures or drive overspeed events, codes do not persist past the current boot, and all faults are also terminal and disable operation, as all of the current ones in a strict sense render operation either impossible or potentially unsafe.

The center blaster below is running this code right now and it is effective and solid.


This image was at CFDW. The lower left-hander blaster with the rail on the cage is Junior7's unit which I updated the firmware on at the event (to 0.8) and swapped out the selector switch (more on this switch later). I haven't posted that build in detail - it's a 221 with S-Core 1.0, ACE LC1s, Turnigy Vspecs, a lefty stock base, lefty auxiliary controls, plus an underbarrel rail and one very long mag release that he wanted and filaments are Atomic marble, Atomic translucent aqua and Yoyi translucent orange.


Same blaster's print kit before assembly.