Monday, July 15, 2013

[Build] Stryfe Blade 180 swap

This gun was used as a test mule for a flywheel upgrade motor that several NIC and HvZ modders have experimented with, which is the stock motor from an E-Flite Blade CX RC helicopter.

This is not a full tutorial or anything, but it gives a good idea of the build process for one of these and how straightforward it is. More info coming on the motors, test results, etc. later. For now I need to get this up fast. I have way too much stuff to do. 

Stock Stryfe teardown. All stock wiring, switches, motors and other superfluous hardware not shown.

Layout of hop-up parts: Deans, 14 AWG silicone insulated wire (I decided to overkill this one for fun, though 16 would be adequate and cheaper), 10A+ microswitch with lever, and two Blade EFLH1210/1211 motors.

Original grip switch cavity trimmed and inside of grip roughened in preparation for epoxy putty to bed microswitch. This is somewhat of a hack method, but is effective and reliable and the switch is removable with care and can be reinstalled with a drop of CA.

Completed microswitch installation. Note switch button end is flattened and sheeted over to present a flat contact surface for the switch lever.

180 motors cleaned up. If you encounter press fit brass pinions on donor motors, these are best removed with the proper puller - but dikes used as a lever will do it with care. Also beware that the stock wire pigtail on these comes with a PTC (which may or may not be a good idea to use) and is somewhat small of wire for this app.

 Note that the 180 motor endbells are more or less flush with the surface of the receiver when installed in a Stryfe. Only the bearing snouts and the wiring sticks out.

 With 3S pack of Sanyo UR18650SAX and ready to get some. These battery packs are another thing that I did a while ago and haven't been posted here yet.

The results of this venture have been surprising and potentially of significance to the NIC, so I will cover that in another post.


  1. does this wiring implement the e-braking for the motors?

    1. Don't think it's possible with that switch. Looks like a SPST switch

  2. Does the 14awg wire provide any benefit?

    1. Nah, it's overkill and any benefit is super marginal. At these short runs 16AWG will suffice.

      Doesn't mean my T3 Tacmod harnesses aren't 14AWG, but that is teflon insulated wire and the thin insulation removes the bulk tradeoff. It's about as thin as PVC insulated 16AWG.

  3. what did you use to cut the shell?